i got issues!!!! lol
 

so i bought this 1988 range rover....
it has a lot of issues to work on... it got a loud lifter noice , actually the car sounds like a sweing machine rather than a v8
v8... that reminds me of something- i heared that the classic range rover had a buick v8 in it ...is that true... also for 88's?
the way the car runs now , i would doubt that it could pull a t-bone steak of a plate. a friend told me it is the lifters and that they need adjusting
i am not sure is the car got hydraulic lifter or not... but if it does than that would take care of the adjusting already.

i think it also could be the timing or the injectors... dunno
then... if i decide to 'gun it' , which is impossible anyway, but let's say i really step on the gas pedal... all i get is this lawnmover like rumbling and a tock tock noice...
now the tock tock got me even more concerned. it sounds to me like the cv joint (if one calls it that way in 4x4's), as long as i got a lot of load on it it will make that noice
i think it's either that or the transfer case, since the 4 wheel drive doesn't even engage. my buddies thing it is a loose caliper or a exhaust leak (?)... i dunno
i appreciate any input here

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

Go to Advance Auto Parts and get some GUNK VALVEMEDIC (yellow 12 oz. bottle) and put it in the oil. The ticks stopped in less than 5 seconds after starting.
Mine sounded the same way when I got it. Kinda like a diesel or a Go-Cart with a howl that came and went when I would speed up or coast..
Also, check the driveshaft u-joints to see if they have ever been greased. Mine were bone dry. All of the front steering components are sealed and have no zirks on them so Jiffy Lube and others don't even bother to check the u-joints and slip yoke. I put 10 pumps in my slip yoke and 2.5 in each u-joint. There may be one u-joint on the back end that doesn't have a zirk.
Try these two things an let me know what you come up with. Mine is running and driving a lot quieter than it has since I owned it.

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

Got a few problems.
This is not a one bottle, 5 minute problem to be fixed.
First, how many miles on the old girl?
Not knowing what sort of maintance the engine has had you need to start with the advanced basics as I call them. How mechanical are you?
If it were mine, I would do an engine flush, using any of the major brand flushes sold in most auto parts stores, put it in, let it idleonly, for 20 minutes plus, then change the oil and filter. See if that makes any difference, if it desn't, buy 2 or 3 cans of carb cleaner, pull the valve covers clean real well and inspect for loose or failing rockers. If OK, reinstall the valve covers and drain and remove the oil pan, also clean and inspect looking for way to much metal in the bottom of the pan and more so look at the oil pick up tube for blockage and clean.
Put it back together, start it up on new oil and filter, what does it now sound like? If still there have someone do an mechanical oip pressure test to verify oil pressure when cold and hot, at idle and at 2000 rpms, right the numbers down and get back to me.
I would suggest you not drive it till the other drive line related noise is found and fixed, first things first.
Mike

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

well it looks like the engine is in now (remember the 3.9l)
but with firing her up for the first time there are a few more problems.
first and most alarming- there is no oil pressure.
i will next weekend take off the oilpan and see if the oil pick up is clogged.
but i need more ideas on what it could be and what i can do to fix it

then the engine keeps running even with key out of the ignition.
we rewired the alternator and tried it that way but no result
any ideas here?
i can't do anything without having the oil situation sorted out but a good plan would be a great thing to have

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

CeeDee. They have mechanical lifters that tend to get stuck with extended use of cheap oil.
I'm sure DM will have more on this, but anyway.
It does sound like the sump or oil pick-up tube is blocked or the oil pump needs to be rebuilt for starters.
Pull the oil pan and the valve covers and clean as DM suggests, but also be sure to check the oil pump itself.
When you say NO oil pressure; Do you mean that the light is on or you have hooked up a guage?
When it after-runs does it sound like a diesel?
Are there any major oil leaks?
What octane fuel are you using?
What about the engine temp?
Disco Mike. What about timing or the vacuum advance on the distributor for the after-run, overall lack of power and knock under full throttle?
I know we aiming for oil pressure first, but once that is established...
When you say it won't go into 4 wheel drive.. do you mean 4-low?
And seriously; check the u-joints and slip-yokes for grease before you drive it again when it gets running. If they haven't been lubed; the needle bearings in the u-joints are probably dust.
Mine went from sounding like a rock tumbler to zero drive line noise with 1 lube job for now. However; I still plan to replace every joint and bushing on the underside.
I had many of the same symptoms on mine and most have been simple neglect of routine maint. and can be fixed with a few bucks and some time.

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

hey moneypit...
thanks on the info...
well time has passed since my first 2 posts.
i got all sorted out apart from the engine crapp that is happening now.
actually we changed the engine to a 3.9l and lifted the 3.5l out
i got the 3.9l ecu hooked up.
after firing her up. ther eis no oil pressure
moreover she wont shut off. even with the key taken out.... not good.
i'll take the sump of next weekend and pack the oilpump with vasoline again
but i need to know what may have gone wrong with the engine running like
there is no manjana.
cheers , i need all help i can get on this

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

If you in fact have no oil pressure, pass on the flush and go straight to the oil pan removal and inspection, if the pick up tube is just plugged up, you may be in luck, clean everything with carb cleaner, put it back together and this time fill with ATF and a new oil filter. Start and idle, only for 20 minutes plus and then drain. This is the ultimate flush when all else is questionable, it is not a harsh chemica cleaner process, it is a veru high detergent clean that is safe.
As for the continuous run problem, don't know off hand.
Mike

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

I would check the timing if you had the distributor out it might be off. Also check the vacuum line that goes to the distributor.
I will look at the electrical diagrams on the two different engines and see if there is an obvious wire that needs to be switched.
So it just continues to run as if the key were never removed?
What about the door dingers do they still go off when the door is open and the key is out?
How about the radio and other stuff does it all quit when the key is removed?
See what I am getting at.. Is it something in the steering column or in the engine wiring harness...
Anyway let me look at the schematic later tonight and I will let you know if I see anything obvious.
I actually love these rides with 150K+ It's just no fun when everything works like it is supposed to!

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

sweet... thank you for all the input... i really need it... you can't give me too much right now
no, we only tried to get her to stop once we realized there was no oil pressure.
i didn't change anything but put in a new (3.9l) ecu and i ran it with the old 3.5l for a few minutes.
there might be some contunuincy power going on...but at this point i am just tired of grease and frustrated.
i'll try all the stuff you guys suggested tomorrow after work.

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

i still got the distributer of my old engine.
so i'll strip it of all gears and stuff and use it to turn the
oilpump.
i will also take the oilpan of to see what is going on there
maybe the no oilpressure situation was the problem with the not shutting of.
anyway, that is only y second worry and i'll takle it when the pressure is up
it's gonna happen this weekend

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

CeeDee,
Don't waist your time trying to drive the pump with your old distributor, pull the pan and get to the heart of the matter. Clean and inspect the pan and pick up tube, clean it out, reinstall the pan and fill. Then go do a pressure test off of the block. This will give you all the info you should need except for the engine run on, which is not too important for now.
Mike

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

Cee Dee and Mike, I would still look at the oil pump. I don't know if Mike is familiar with the internals of this particuliar oil pump, but there is also a screen type filter IN THE OIL PUMP. If there is blockage in the sump tube; what are the odds that some of it has worked its way up into the oil pump/filter?
If you are going to take the time to drop the oil pan, pull the valve covers and clean it is only logical to clean the part that is designed to catch chucks that make it up the sump tube!
If you flush everything else but that screen you are basically defeating the purpose of all that labor.
When you flush, clean and start it up all that gunk will either be forced back through the system or become even more tightly packed if there is a blockage.
While she is down you may as well cover all bases so you won't have to go back in.
The vaseline re-pack will also be a good idea of you going to be bone dry at start-up.
From looking at the wiring diagrams; you may want to make sure the wires are on the coil are on the right terminals.
It looks as if the ignition switch is connected directly to the coil.
The ignition wire goes to the + side and the ampllifier goes to the -.
If need be; I can e-mail you a couple pages with the layout.

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

If you had read my first post on this topic, I did suggest starting from the top and working down, but as the posts continued it was obvious that the engine shouldn't be restarted until the lower end was inspected, which depending on the findings might include a pump inspection. By the way, I did suggest doing a oil pressure test off the block, which is a good Rover mechanic would have done.
Mike

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

sorry it's my fault
i guess i should have gotten a better mechanic to work on my truck

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

Everyone is allowed one screwed up mechanic adventure, you have has your now it is time to go get her fixed.
Good luck,
Mike

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

This is called learning... and it is not all your mechanics fault. Engine swaps can be tricky.
There are so many little things that can get bumped or halfway tightened as well as crossed wires.
When you remove 50 or so parts over a few weeks; one or two will come back to haunt you.
Still sounds like you are making progress.
I still think the after run is possibly from the coil.
My logic:
1. One side goes to the ign. and the other to the amp.
2. When cranked it will start.
3. When key is removed and amp is hooked to + side the is an open circuit with no switch.
4. Ing. should cut power to coil; instead it is getting a steady feed from the amp.
5 After run occurs until coil wire is removed.
6. Switching the coil wires should put the switch on the correct side of the coil.
Just a thought I had.

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

MY 2 CENTS

88 3.5 USES A 14CU ENGINE CONTROLLER.

IS THE"3.9" ECU A 14CUX CONTROLLER?

THE 14CU CONTROLLER HAS AN A/C CONTROL CIRCUT ON THE SAME PINS AS THE 14CUX ECU HAS A TUNE RESISTOR.(OR VICE VERSA??)

RECALL VAGUELY THAT THERE IS A RELAY INSTALL REQUIRED ON THE SWAP, DON'T REMEMBER THIS CAUSING A "RUN ON" ISSUE.

REINSTALL THE 3.5 ECU IS THERE STILL AN ISSUE??

3.9 NO OIL PRESSURE, USED MOTOR, SITTING FOR AWHILE?

THESE MOTORS ARE KNOWN FOR LOOSING PRIME ON OIL PUMP!

PULL OIL DRAIN PLUG, STOCK FINGER IN HOLE AND FEEL FOR THICK SLUDGE ON BOTTOM OF PAN, NOT MUCH?

PULL BOTTOM OF OIL PUMP, INSPECT, IF OK, PACK WITH PETROLIUM JELLY, ASSEMBLE, FILL W/OIL AND RESTART.

SEE WHAT HAPPENS!

MECHANICAL OIL PRESS. TEST=GOOD

PULLING PAN IF SLUDGE FOUND, A MUST

WITH ALL DUE RESPECT TO ALL, I WOULD NEVER CHEMICALLY "FLUSH" AN ENGINE, IF THERE'S A LOT OF CRAP IN IT, YOU'LL BE PULLING THE OIL PAN 3 TIMES OR MORE!

J.T.F.

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

I agree, if it isn't worth taking the time to do it right; then it isn't worth doing it at all.
Do it end to end correctly once and be done with it; then keep it clean and it own't be a problem.
My biggest issues seem to be from pure neglect of routine maint. from previous owners.

The other tick in my exhaust IS a nut or something in my passenger cat.
I tapped it with a ratchet and I can hear it bounce in there.
Will this come out the back of the pipe when removed or is there a screen at the exhaust side of the cat?

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

THE KNOCKING NOISE IN YOUR CAT IS MOST LIKELY PIECES OF THE HONEYCOMB STRATA THAT HAS BROKEN LOOSE FROM THE MAIN BODY, USUALLY MELTED AND CRACKED.

CAUSE IS EXCESSIVE HEAT IN CAT FROM MISFIRE, MELTS INNARDS

UASALLY MUCH NOISER WHEN WARM.

NEEDS NEW CAT, MUFFLER SHOP, UNIVERSAL WILL WORK.

RE: i got issues!!!! lol
 

Not what I wanted to hear, but if it is a common thing then it probably is.
It does get worse when warm. When you rev the engine and let off you can hear it rolling around in there.
I will drop it and see if anything comes out; if not I'll take it in and have a new one grafted on.

This thing should done for a while after this round.
All new bushing, tie-rod ends, track rod/adjuster, swaybar ball joints, shocks F/R, a-frame ball joint, oil pan drop, valve cover removal, tune-up, hoses, new brakes and hardware.
Wheel bearings, u-joints, swivel seals and tranny/transfer case fluids are next after the cat.

Have I forgotten anything?