so i bought this 1988 range rover....
it has a lot of issues to work on... it got a loud lifter noice , actually the car sounds like a sweing machine rather than a v8
v8... that reminds me of something- i heared that the classic range rover had a buick v8 in it ...is that true... also for 88's?
the way the car runs now , i would doubt that it could pull a t-bone steak of a plate. a friend told me it is the lifters and that they need adjusting
i am not sure is the car got hydraulic lifter or not... but if it does than that would take care of the adjusting already.

i think it also could be the timing or the injectors... dunno
then... if i decide to 'gun it' , which is impossible anyway, but let's say i really step on the gas pedal... all i get is this lawnmover like rumbling and a tock tock noice...
now the tock tock got me even more concerned. it sounds to me like the cv joint (if one calls it that way in 4x4's), as long as i got a lot of load on it it will make that noice
i think it's either that or the transfer case, since the 4 wheel drive doesn't even engage. my buddies thing it is a loose caliper or a exhaust leak (?)... i dunno
i appreciate any input here

 

Go to Advance Auto Parts and get some GUNK VALVEMEDIC (yellow 12 oz. bottle) and put it in the oil. The ticks stopped in less than 5 seconds after starting.
Mine sounded the same way when I got it. Kinda like a diesel or a Go-Cart with a howl that came and went when I would speed up or coast..
Also, check the driveshaft u-joints to see if they have ever been greased. Mine were bone dry. All of the front steering components are sealed and have no zirks on them so Jiffy Lube and others don't even bother to check the u-joints and slip yoke. I put 10 pumps in my slip yoke and 2.5 in each u-joint. There may be one u-joint on the back end that doesn't have a zirk.
Try these two things an let me know what you come up with. Mine is running and driving a lot quieter than it has since I owned it.

 

Got a few problems.
This is not a one bottle, 5 minute problem to be fixed.
First, how many miles on the old girl?
Not knowing what sort of maintance the engine has had you need to start with the advanced basics as I call them. How mechanical are you?
If it were mine, I would do an engine flush, using any of the major brand flushes sold in most auto parts stores, put it in, let it idleonly, for 20 minutes plus, then change the oil and filter. See if that makes any difference, if it desn't, buy 2 or 3 cans of carb cleaner, pull the valve covers clean real well and inspect for loose or failing rockers. If OK, reinstall the valve covers and drain and remove the oil pan, also clean and inspect looking for way to much metal in the bottom of the pan and more so look at the oil pick up tube for blockage and clean.
Put it back together, start it up on new oil and filter, what does it now sound like? If still there have someone do an mechanical oip pressure test to verify oil pressure when cold and hot, at idle and at 2000 rpms, right the numbers down and get back to me.
I would suggest you not drive it till the other drive line related noise is found and fixed, first things first.
Mike

 

well it looks like the engine is in now (remember the 3.9l)
but with firing her up for the first time there are a few more problems.
first and most alarming- there is no oil pressure.
i will next weekend take off the oilpan and see if the oil pick up is clogged.
but i need more ideas on what it could be and what i can do to fix it

then the engine keeps running even with key out of the ignition.
we rewired the alternator and tried it that way but no result
any ideas here?
i can't do anything without having the oil situation sorted out but a good plan would be a great thing to have

 

CeeDee. They have mechanical lifters that tend to get stuck with extended use of cheap oil.
I'm sure DM will have more on this, but anyway.
It does sound like the sump or oil pick-up tube is blocked or the oil pump needs to be rebuilt for starters.
Pull the oil pan and the valve covers and clean as DM suggests, but also be sure to check the oil pump itself.
When you say NO oil pressure; Do you mean that the light is on or you have hooked up a guage?
When it after-runs does it sound like a diesel?
Are there any major oil leaks?
What octane fuel are you using?
What about the engine temp?
Disco Mike. What about timing or the vacuum advance on the distributor for the after-run, overall lack of power and knock under full throttle?
I know we aiming for oil pressure first, but once that is established...
When you say it won't go into 4 wheel drive.. do you mean 4-low?
And seriously; check the u-joints and slip-yokes for grease before you drive it again when it gets running. If they haven't been lubed; the needle bearings in the u-joints are probably dust.
Mine went from sounding like a rock tumbler to zero drive line noise with 1 lube job for now. However; I still plan to replace every joint and bushing on the underside.
I had many of the same symptoms on mine and most have been simple neglect of routine maint. and can be fixed with a few bucks and some time.

 

hey moneypit...
thanks on the info...
well time has passed since my first 2 posts.
i got all sorted out apart from the engine crapp that is happening now.
actually we changed the engine to a 3.9l and lifted the 3.5l out
i got the 3.9l ecu hooked up.
after firing her up. ther eis no oil pressure
moreover she wont shut off. even with the key taken out.... not good.
i'll take the sump of next weekend and pack the oilpump with vasoline again
but i need to know what may have gone wrong with the engine running like
there is no manjana.
cheers , i need all help i can get on this

 

If you in fact have no oil pressure, pass on the flush and go straight to the oil pan removal and inspection, if the pick up tube is just plugged up, you may be in luck, clean everything with carb cleaner, put it back together and this time fill with ATF and a new oil filter. Start and idle, only for 20 minutes plus and then drain. This is the ultimate flush when all else is questionable, it is not a harsh chemica cleaner process, it is a veru high detergent clean that is safe.
As for the continuous run problem, don't know off hand.
Mike

 

I would check the timing if you had the distributor out it might be off. Also check the vacuum line that goes to the distributor.
I will look at the electrical diagrams on the two different engines and see if there is an obvious wire that needs to be switched.
So it just continues to run as if the key were never removed?
What about the door dingers do they still go off when the door is open and the key is out?
How about the radio and other stuff does it all quit when the key is removed?
See what I am getting at.. Is it something in the steering column or in the engine wiring harness...
Anyway let me look at the schematic later tonight and I will let you know if I see anything obvious.
I actually love these rides with 150K+ It's just no fun when everything works like it is supposed to!

 

sweet... thank you for all the input... i really need it... you can't give me too much right now
no, we only tried to get her to stop once we realized there was no oil pressure.
i didn't change anything but put in a new (3.9l) ecu and i ran it with the old 3.5l for a few minutes.
there might be some contunuincy power going on...but at this point i am just tired of grease and frustrated.
i'll try all the stuff you guys suggested tomorrow after work.

 

i still got the distributer of my old engine.
so i'll strip it of all gears and stuff and use it to turn the
oilpump.
i will also take the oilpan of to see what is going on there
maybe the no oilpressure situation was the problem with the not shutting of.
anyway, that is only y second worry and i'll takle it when the pressure is up
it's gonna happen this weekend