A little history: I have a 1996 4.0 Range Rover. Early this summer the engine blew a piston. I had a used engine with about 60K installed by an independent mechanic that I have used for years. The truck has 170,000 on it. Shortly after I got the truck back with the replacement engine, barely running, he went out of business. I then had to spend a substantive amount of money having the wiring harness and other things fixed by another mechanic (one located thru RangeRovers.net) so the system ran properly. One thing that the new mechanic didn’t get fixed was a kind of "hiccup" at high speeds, which based on my reading this forum and on Range Rovers.net the fuel pump was certainly suspect, and even if it wasn’t the problem it had 170K on it and would probably be a problem soon. Additionally, the "high" speed was getting lower. It started at 70, but had just moved down to 55. So, I bit the bullet and decided to replace the fuel pump myself. I initially was going to do a “pump only” replacement but when I cut thru the floor to gain access to the pump, I found that the top of the pump had a mouse nest made of the hood liner on it. The wad of wet material had seriously rusted the fuel lines into the pump. So a full replacement of the full pump assembly was decided upon, along with the filter. I got the pump thru AtlanticBritish and did the replacement work Saturday. The truck sat for two days waiting for the parts. When I went to start it to put it in the garage to install the new pump, the truck wouldn’t start; I figured it had lost its prime. So I did the work outside. When I put a wrench on the fittings, they broke immediately - which supported the decision to go for the whole replacement. I cleaned everything up, installed the new pump and filter. After this was done it took a while to get the fuel up to the rail, but I eventually got it to run. For a short while. I turned it around on the driveway with a grin on my face - sucess I thought. When I turned it off it would not restart. I read some more on the net. Checked the fuse: it was fine. Pulled the relay and put it back. Still it wouldn’t start, and the battery was getting tired. I put it on a trickle charger and went in and ate dinner. Went out a couple of hours later and it started. I let it run about 10 minutes and figured that maybe the relay was suspect. The truck was in “high” mode and I pushed the button to set it lower. The engine stalled and hasn’t started since. I even swapped the relay for one that is used elsewhere – no difference. HELP!!!!!!!!

 

More info: I bought a fuel pressure gauge and I read 34lbs

I also re opened the access to the pump and re-inspected the wires. They are good.

 

Hi
i have same P38 same year same engine
the fuel pressure on yours is OK 34
is there any code stored in the ecu
if not you are in trouble
try MAF sensor cleaning with electrical connector cleaner
next thing crankshaft sensor

 

I had no codes.

I also had no spark at the plugs.

I gave up trying to fix it myself and had it towed the 50 miles to the non dealer mechanic I use.

He found that I also had no power at the injectors. He eventually traced it to a worn thru wiring harness that was damaged by the exhaust shield. He replaced it with one off of a parts truck he had and I'm back in business.

There goes my ebay profits.......