WEIRD ghost start...this seems to be my new priority issue. Once the neg battery cable is connected the truck tries to crank all by itself with no key in ignition!!! When I do get in and turn key in to III position. It will turn over.Nevermind the overheat issue....These issues scream electrical (No?)Im just a girl!!! I need a Rover angel to come help! Thanks in advance!

Note my BF made me buy a Optima Battery RedTop Starting Battery, Group Size 75/25, 720 CCA
would this have anything to do with the wacky electical issues I have been having??

 

A new battery would not cause these issues. There could be moisture in the fuse box, a relay, or solenoid could be malfunctioning. The ignition stock could also be bad, but I would start with the fuse box and relay first. Open the fuse box up and inspect it, make sure there is no corrosion. I believe you mentioned that you replaced the fuse/relay box on an earlier post. Was the fuse box new or used, and where in the vehicle was it located? If used, you might have replaced it with another bad fuse box. Try swapping relays with the starter relay, that will tell you if it is sticking.

 

Relay box was used. I have had the box lid off for a while so I suppose it is likely that the relays got corroded. I was swapping them around yesterday and everytime I switched one out I tapped the batt cable on post and the ignition went on. Would you happen to know the exact relay for starter? Im thinking its RL-15 based on the diagram. How about a "cleaner" of some sort? Maybe just rubbing alcohol?

Would a good starter whack unstick anything? My bf thinks Im crazy...but he just doesnt know my Range Rover!

 

When I say open up the fuse box and check for corrosion. I mean, take it out of the car and open it up to the bare metal connectors that you cannot see from just removing the lid. You could try whacking the starter too I suppose... The Rave service manual which you can download online for free should list the diagrams for the starter system.

If you left the cover off the fuse box in the engine compartment for awhile, there is a good chance water got in it and corroded it.

When I took my fuse box apart, I submerged it in baking soda and water and it removed a lot of corrosion. Make sure it is dry before putting it back together and installing it in the rover!

 

I have a 99 P38 Gems 4.0...Could you possibly direct me to the exact link I need to d-load the manual for my model? I go to land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte and there are a few options for different vehicles- Overhaul, Series, Discos ect. I assume the file is pretty big and dont want to d-load the wrong one... Thanks for al your help! So appreciated!

 

OKay...relay box cleaned up and starting issues have subsided! Now second major issue- my overheat. about 5 miles and needle goes up. Patience has run out. I love my truck but is up for sale! Hopefully she will go to a person who appreciates them and she can be brought back to her glory..

 

overheating likely lead to your starting issue with the cover off.

mine had a similar fate but was easily fixed.

 

I would still verify its overheating before taking a loss (nobody wants to buy cars that have issues, unless its for super cheap). The temp gauges on these things are not very accurate. The sensor could be bad, or it could be an electrical fault too. Mine did this as previously stated in another post. It turned out to be the voltage regulator in the alternator. Your radiator could be plugged up too...

Also, I asked in your last thread if yours was a bosch or gems rover (coolant bleed procedures differ between the two). If you do not get the bleed procedure correct when draining and refilling the coolant, the engine will overheat too.

 

Its A Gems... BF flushed other day. Im not sure exactly how he did it. I know there are "special" ways to do everything on a Rangie. He treats it like a reg truck. Any reccomendations on where I could pick up an inexpensive radiator? If it was head gaskets wouldnt I see white smoke and/or coolant in the oil? Im financially tapped out. I had upper and lowers done in 2006.. cost about 800$ Dare I got there again? :/

 

Usually. Have the spark plugs been inspected to see if one is steam cleaned? That will tell you for sure if its HGs or not. I would verify it is overheating before spending anymore money on it. Start with checking the spark plugs first, its free... If none are steam cleaned or show signs of coolant on them, there is a good chance the HGs are fine. Doing a compression test will also reveal if it is HGs or not. If the spark plugs are fine, if it passes a compression test, there is no white smoke coming out of the exhaust, and there is no coolant in the oil, then its not your head gaskets. Verify its overheating with a scan gauge or infrared temp gun, if it is overheating, check the radiator's flow and make sure it is getting adequate airflow through it too. Rovers are very sensitive to radiator flow when under load in warm conditions.

The best way to burp/bleed the cooling system on a GEMS RR (the unofficial way, the way I do it). Start with the engine cool and take the top hose off the radiator, and fill the block up with coolant, and re-connect the top hose to the radiator. Next fill the expansion tank, leave the cap off. Elevate the front of the vehicle to assist with bringing air out of the heater core to the expansion tank. Fire up the engine and let it get to operating temperature with the expansion tank cap off. Once at operating temperature (some coolant might have over flowed out of the expansion tank at this point), shut down the engine and put the expansion tank cap back on. Lower the car back to level and let it sit overnight if you can. The next morning the level in the expansion tank will have gone down. Fill it back up to the proper level. Then your done, no more air should be in the system.