broken door lock, 2000 Disco II. What is this part?
broken door lock, 2000 Disco II. What is this part?
So, here's the problem: My key-operated door lock mechanism has a broken part. I fished the part out of the door, but I cannot find any mention of it in the RAVE. My key goes in the lock and turns left and right, but it does not lock/unlock the vehicle. What's broken is a three inch cast rod with a four-pronged gear on one end. The other end of this rod is broken off, probably due to use and age. There is a part number stamped on the side of this rod:
R33077
What is this thing, where is a pic of a non-broken one, and where does it go during reassembly? Again, I did not see it anywhere in the RAVE.
R33077
What is this thing, where is a pic of a non-broken one, and where does it go during reassembly? Again, I did not see it anywhere in the RAVE.
I've taken a pic of the part and have it on my facebook page. I put a link to it in the first post, but I don't think it's showing up. This rod is a cast piece.
Another thing I did not mention, which is the root of my problem right now, is that I also do not have a functioning key fob and therefore have no way of securing the vehicle. If I were to use the inside lock/unlock button on the dash to lock the car, then I would not be able to get back into it. This is problematic as I generally have guns in the vehicle and would hate for them to get gone.
Another thing I did not mention, which is the root of my problem right now, is that I also do not have a functioning key fob and therefore have no way of securing the vehicle. If I were to use the inside lock/unlock button on the dash to lock the car, then I would not be able to get back into it. This is problematic as I generally have guns in the vehicle and would hate for them to get gone.
TReK
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 165
From: CT
Chuck,
I sent you this photo but I'll post it here as well.
There is a tiny roll pin that secures the rod to the body of the tumbler. Punch out the roll pin and the rod will come off freely. You can probably reuse the roll pin to put the rod on the back of your handle. That way you won't need to worry about keys.
Good luck,
Paul
I sent you this photo but I'll post it here as well.
There is a tiny roll pin that secures the rod to the body of the tumbler. Punch out the roll pin and the rod will come off freely. You can probably reuse the roll pin to put the rod on the back of your handle. That way you won't need to worry about keys.
Good luck,
Paul
Job done! So, in case this ever happens to you guys, here's how I got the fix done without even removing the door card.
-I punched out the drift pin holding in the lock actuating rod (my term for the part that I broke) into the lock tumbler in my replacement door handle. Thankfully, I did not lose the drift pin!
-the unbroken replacement rod then slid right out
-I removed the one TORX bolt that holds the door handle in place from the inside of the door jamb.
-I pushed forward on the back of the door handle then pulled out. The entire mechanism pulls out right up to the point that the door opening rod hits the inside of the door. No need to take the door apart and disconnect the rod because I had plenty of access to get to the drift pin.
-I put a towel underneath the door in case I punched the drift pin completely out onto the groun and used masking tape to protect my paint. I then used a small center punch to drive out the drift pin.
-the broken-off part of the old actuating rod was still inside the lock tumbler so I tapped the outside of the door handle until the tiny little fragment flew out and ended up in the bottom of my door; no biggie.
-so as not to mess up and drop the new actuating rod inside the door during the operation, I put a ten inch zip tie around the new rod (very handy and smart).
-I fed the new part in from the bottom, holding onto it by the zip tie, and slid it into the hole.
-I had already pre-inserted the drift pin into the hole from the top. Once lined up, I simply tapped the drift pin into place.
-I then cut off the zip tie and lined up the new actuating rod thing with where I imagined the electronic door lock switch to be; I got it right the first time, and pushed the door handle forward and in, locking it back into position.
-I replaced the one TORX bolt on the inside of the door and tested the system; it worked.
-JOB DONE.
In the end, I was VERY happy that I did not have to pull the door panel again and super happy that I did not drop the new part inside the door when I was installing it. The zip tie trick just made sense.
chuck
-I punched out the drift pin holding in the lock actuating rod (my term for the part that I broke) into the lock tumbler in my replacement door handle. Thankfully, I did not lose the drift pin!
-the unbroken replacement rod then slid right out
-I removed the one TORX bolt that holds the door handle in place from the inside of the door jamb.
-I pushed forward on the back of the door handle then pulled out. The entire mechanism pulls out right up to the point that the door opening rod hits the inside of the door. No need to take the door apart and disconnect the rod because I had plenty of access to get to the drift pin.
-I put a towel underneath the door in case I punched the drift pin completely out onto the groun and used masking tape to protect my paint. I then used a small center punch to drive out the drift pin.
-the broken-off part of the old actuating rod was still inside the lock tumbler so I tapped the outside of the door handle until the tiny little fragment flew out and ended up in the bottom of my door; no biggie.
-so as not to mess up and drop the new actuating rod inside the door during the operation, I put a ten inch zip tie around the new rod (very handy and smart).
-I fed the new part in from the bottom, holding onto it by the zip tie, and slid it into the hole.
-I had already pre-inserted the drift pin into the hole from the top. Once lined up, I simply tapped the drift pin into place.
-I then cut off the zip tie and lined up the new actuating rod thing with where I imagined the electronic door lock switch to be; I got it right the first time, and pushed the door handle forward and in, locking it back into position.
-I replaced the one TORX bolt on the inside of the door and tested the system; it worked.
-JOB DONE.
In the end, I was VERY happy that I did not have to pull the door panel again and super happy that I did not drop the new part inside the door when I was installing it. The zip tie trick just made sense.
chuck
4th Gear
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
broken pin...
Hello to you my friend, I had the same problem and had to brake one of the windows to have access into the car.
If you go to: wheeltrendz.com you can order one of steel that will never brake and lock you out of your car and it costs just $ 20.00
Go on the web site and look on the far left corner on your screen and that's where you can place your order.
I would not advise buying one from the dealer, as it would brake again.
Good luck
If you go to: wheeltrendz.com you can order one of steel that will never brake and lock you out of your car and it costs just $ 20.00
Go on the web site and look on the far left corner on your screen and that's where you can place your order.
I would not advise buying one from the dealer, as it would brake again.
Good luck