2004 Discovery SE 158,xxx miles

This is my first post on the forums but I've been reading them for a while and I knew from reading these things for hours that disco mike is going to tell me to get the codes.
I just got the truck out of the shop, I had a new "used" transmission put in because the last place I went to to do a filter change and flush left the drain plug finger tight and it leaked all the transmission fluid on the way hom and burned out the transmission. $1,992.00 later I pick it up and it runs like a dream again.
Today, the check engine light came on so I went straight to Autozone and P0327, and P0154 came up. the first one is a low input on knock sensor 1 on bank 1. the second is an o2 sensor no activity on bank 2 sensor 1.
Can someone tell me a little about these codes and what I need to do to fix it.
Is it possible for me to repair and reset the check engine light or do I have to take it to a shop. Also how pressing are these codes as far as reliability and performance and what is going to be detrimental to the truck if it takes me a little while before I can get to it?

 

Sounds like you need an up stream o2 censor and a knock censor. About a 100 in parts, amazon is cheapest on o2s.

 

Is it ok to drive the truck until I can get it fixed or will it cause more problems in the long run?

 

It might not run smoothly but it doesn't hurt anything.

 

Thanks, I'll probably just leave it how it is for a month or two before I go to drop anymore money on it right now. I'm still reeling from the cost of that transmission and labor right now!

 

Understood, bummer. You might notice a difference in the amount of fuel your using though (could equal the amount of the two sensors in less than a month) and to be honest changing the knock sensor is not really that hard to do yourself. The O2 can be a bugger without the wrench but it too is rather simple if you heat up the exhaust first, the O2 will turn easier. Both sensors on your Disco are cheaper than on mine, way cheaper.......lucky you.

The knock sensor is part of the ignition control circuit, advance/retard per bank of cylinders and done individually. The O2 is part of the Air/Fuel ratio control and is rather important to keep the fuel costs down.

I would suggest that you at least take a look at both to make sure they're connected up, the connectors do find a way to disconnect themselves. That costs nothing.

 

I plan on doing it myself. I'm going to start doing most of the work myself 100 bucks an hour labor is getting crazy haha. as far as the codes they gave a bank # does that denote the location of the sensors? If so, how does that go?

 

Another question I have is once I replace all the parts. How do I clear the codes myself. That's probably the noobest question of all, but I really don't know. Also the bank and sensor numbers show up with the codes. what numbers denote which side of the vehicle the fault is on? Also you said both sensors are you referring to the knock and o2 sensors or saying I should change both front o2 sensors at the same time?

 

Bank 1 and 2 and then upstream of the Catalytic Converters and downstream of the Cats. Bank 1 is on the drivers side, cylinders 1, 3, 5, 7 and Bank 2 is passenger, 2, 4, 6, 8.

Yes, both sensors referring to the knock and O2 sensor.

To reset you'll need to get a cheapo OBD II code scanner and then you can clear OR there is a device called the "Ultragauge" that is $60 bucks and well worth every dime because it gives you live data on your engine, much of it you won't even understand but you can relay to folks on the forum and they will interpret for you and be able to pinpoint the problem in most cases........most.

You don't have to change both sensors at the same time but while your getting hands dirty and swearing at the Rover it's not a bad idea. I would do the knock sensor first because it's the easiest. One cap head bolt and it's off and on. The O2 you will swear even if your a pastor. They can be a bugger to start unthreading - heat is your friend. Wear gloves.

If it where me I'd change both top O2 sensors and call it a day, that way you will not have to address the opposite side failing. You have well over the 100k that most O2 sensors last, the motor got it's money's worth.

The top two O2 sensors (pre cat) are the critical ones. They're information is what the computer determines it's air fuel setting corrections at. That is a huge statement, foot stomper..... the rear or downstream O2's are reading what the catalytic converter is removing from the exhaust and the condition of the catalytic converters themselves. Important but not as important as the top two for stoichiometric adjustments.

 

OK thank you for all of your information first and foremost! Greatly appreciated!
Getting under the truck, I notice the reason why I'm getting a low input fault code on the knock sensor. Apparently, someone had cut the wire before, it has been spliced. Is there an easy fix for this or do I need to redo the wiring on that completely?