This is on 97 Disco but may help others.

Older starter works great 95% of the time but after running in hot weather the starter may turn a too slow or not at all. Battery, Alt are 100%. starter terminals and connection clean and new battery cables installed. Attempt to jump with other vehicle makes battery cables very hot (due to full charge in battery). Problem is old starter and high heat increase resistance and battery will not turn it.

Take a jumper cable and connect Black end to YOUR battery Negative terminal. Connect the other Black cable end to your starter mounting bolt. Do not connect Red cable ends to anything. Start engine!!! Remove cables.

A direct and better ground to battery NEG terminal reduces hot starter resistance. This worked so well I installed a (another) battery cable from the starter mount bolt to the same ground point as the Neg battery terminal.

Note: the heat shield is in place and does connect the starter housing to the frame. In my case cleaning the frame/heat shield ground area did not provide a good long term result.

$7 bucks for the cable or $200 for a starter.

 

You had a bad ground until you added a better one; not a bad starter.
Or at least you didn't have a bad starter at first. Repeated use when it cranks slowly will damage a starter.

 

I wouldn't be surprised at all if the cable is corroded at the body ground and is causing a high resistance point.

 

I have replaced both battery cables in the last two months and cleaned frame grounding point for bat neg cable. I pulled the starter and cleaned terminals and connections but neglected the far end of the earth ground.

I am going to try and access, clean and inspect the starter ground (earth) cable and mounting point.

Thanks.

 

The Earth Ground (Point) for the starter is located on the frame inside the right/front wheel well towards the rear. I checked it for continuity and resistance before cleaning it and the connection was good. I pulled it apart anyway and cleaned the terminal and frame.

I pulled my "additional ground" off and drove it yesterday. Cold start was strong say starter speed was 8 out of 10. Sure enough, after everything got Hot the starter would not turn the engine at all. The solenoid clicked, I got a Buzz, lights dimmed and nothing else. I pulled out my jumper cables and connected from the neg terminal to the starter heat shield and hit the key: it cranked right over 10 out of 10. I'm sure some of the increase in starter speed is the hot engine/fluids but without the "Jump"
it was dead. I know a replacement starter is in my future.

This Tech Tip may help get you off the side of the road or out of the Boonies when you need it the most. Whats a tow truck/service call cost these days: Ouch!

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Unless you have a cable that's defective internally, then yeah, I'd order a starter.
I highly recommend the Denso gear reduction starter from Britishstarters.com

If my starter-to-chassis cable is at all dicey I replace it, but install a longer one that connects to the same point as the battery-to-chassis cable.

 

Checking with an Ohm Meter for continuity and resistance only tells you that you have as little as a single strand of wire connected through an otherwise poor connection. You need to measure "voltage drop", also know as "dynamic resistance".
Set your meter to read Volts. Attach the Neg. lead to Battery Neg post. Attach the Pos. lead to the body of the starter. It will read 0V. Now crank the engine and read the Meter, if all is good you might see up to .3V. This is the voltage being used by the resistance under cranking. If you have more than .3V you have too much resistance in the circuit. Move the Pos. lead gradually closer to the battery along the circuit until the reading drops and you will find the location of high resistance.

 

The OEM cables are pretty much crap anyway, IMO. I always make new ones and replace them.
The one from my wife's '97 can be seen in this thread:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...177#post231177