2008 LR2 with 80K miles. Has been displaying Reduced Engine Performance on and off for quite some time but we continued to drive it. It has been making a strange low crunchy sound when making extreme right turns. I think my gf (her car) was told a year or two ago that it would eventually need to have the differential replaced but she couldnt recall if he said differential or CV joints or what. We are not, obviously, mechanics!

This morning it wouldn't turn over at all, the dash display flickers and all the warning lights come on and then it just quits. Displays "HDC Fault System Unavailable" as well as Reduced Engine Performance.

I have read through the forums and seen that people have solved this as easily as replacing the battery, others by replacing something called a Brake Switch, yet others have said it was a rear differential motor lock? I borrowed a cheap old code reader from a neighbor and it only showed one code: P0300 random misfire.

I dont know if battery is bad but all lights/radio/AC work. I attached jumper cables to my Jeep Cherokee to see if that would help but made no difference.

I uploaded to youtube a short video of dash when I try to start engine:

The gf is convinced it will be thousands to repair esp if a bad computer or the rear differential. Is it worth towing this car - that is also in need of a paint job and two window regulators - to the mechanic, or time to send it to the junk yard? And would a better code reader help pinpoint the problem?

Thanks!

 

djs did you ever find a solution to this issue? I'm having the exact same problem with my 2008 LR2 right now.

 

1. Check the voltage on the battery, should be on the high side of 13v.
2. Disconnect the terminals and put a charger on it until the charger says it is completely charged.
3. If these don't help, more than likely it needs a new battery, unless you replaced it recently.

 

Thanks, flybd5! It looks like voltage is sitting just under 10v. Guesing its time for a new battery? Have had the same one for ~5 years since I bought the car used.

 

There's your sign. How old was the battery when you bought the car?

Before you spend a couple hundred on a new battery...

1. Charge it. If you don't have a charger get yourself one, they are relatively inexpensive and handy to keep around. DISCONNECT THE TERMINALS before charging. The nuts are 10mm, first the negative then the positive. Install them in the reverse order when charged.
2. If it won't charge completely, it's bad. Sometimes the charger will tell you its bad, but sometimes all you have to do is put it in trickle charge mode until it gets to 11v or so and then switch it to full charging mode. If none of that works, time to get another one.
3. If it charges completely, then you need to find out what's discharging it. Maybe a GPS whose power adapter is always connected and always has a little light turned on? Some other accessory you put in the car? Maybe an interior light?

 

Thank you again! Not sure on the actual age of the battery, but I'll pick up a battery charger tomorrow and give it a go.

The only thing I can think of that may be draining the battery is a USB charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket. I usually don't have anything charging on it, but it stays plugged in and has a little light on.

Appreciate all of the help!

 

There's your other sign, said Foxworthy... If the charger is in the FRONT lighter socket, that one turns off when the car is off. BUT, if it is in the REAR socket, that one is always on and the USB charger will drain the battery if you go long enough between runs, or you only do short drives. How do I know? I #*$&(*&#$(@ forget to unplug mine once in a while!! (pardon the foaming) My symptoms are exactly like yours.

So, I am pretty sure all you have to do is charge the battery. Buy yourself a charger that can do BOTH trickle and fast charging. I have an intelligent one I brought with me from Germany that figures it out and chooses the right charging voltage... well, most of the time.

Keep in mind that when you plug the terminals back in after charging (remember, positive first, then negative, the little spark is nothing to worry about) you will have to set the time on the radio and give it a few minutes to "wake up" and sync itself with the car before trying to start the engine, otherwise the computer will not be ready and will make the car feel and sound like it needs a new engine, until it settles down.

 

flybd5,

Thanks again for all of the help. I tried charging the battery and was not able to get it above 75% after a few hours, but the voltage did pop back up to 12v. Tried starting the car and it didn't work. Then tried charging the battery for around 8 hours and it never got above 50-75% and voltage remained just below 10. Ended up replacing the battery and it started right up. Appreciate the knowledge and assistance!

 

Ah, well. That would have been the other outcome. Looks like the battery wasn't very keen on being drained so low, or was geriatric and begging to be recycled. At least it wasn't anything overly complicated and/or hugely expensive. Glad to hear it was solved.

 

I wonder why it didn't start when jumper cables were connected to the Jeep Cherokee?