Get the codes the car is reporting using a reader that understands LR modules. Then we can help you better.

 

We need better information.

I agree with the request for the codes with the caveat if you are not communicating with the ECU and the key dock then you can't read any codes.


With that in mind can you answer the following

1. Did you do a hard reset on the battery (see my post above....disconnect B+ and B- and wait 30 minute)?

2. Does anything work when you dock the key and press the START/STOP button for 5 seconds without touching the brake? (The Radio should turn on and the power window should work)

3. Does the steering column lock turn off? Can you move the wheel?

4. Have you tried to activate the starter independently to confirm that it is working?

5. Does the instrument cluster have any messages?

You can read this thread for some helpful tips

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post368745.html#368745

Good Luck

Paul

 

Ok, first off, I want to thank you both, Paul and flybd5, I had tried so many different things that I was about to pull my hair out. But I finally got the correct information that I needed and I put a scanner on it and cleared the codes and hit a data clear and voila!!! Pushed in the brake pedal, hit the start button, it started and stayed running so I took her around the block. Got to the house turned motor off waited a little while and went to crank it... Started right up like it's supposed to. Well, almost. Took 3 pushes on the start button before it started and stayed running. Throwing code, P0087-Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low. Vehicle has been sitting for a minute, some things may just take a little bit of run time to get right. Super happy there for a bit. At least it's drivable. Now I have check engine light-P0087? or just needs new air filter from sitting. And battery light stays on. Put a multimeter on it, 12.45 not running, then goes down instead of up after cranking up. So I'm going to check out the alternator in the morning. Last but not least by any means, I have some kind of drain on battery. Thought it may have just been the alternator at first but when I disconnected to charge the battery and connected it back there was a very good spark upon reconnection of battery. So I'll be checking wires and fuses in the morning also while I check out the alternator. I want to take a closer look at some of the wires anyway because I found two tracking devices under the hood. One was just with a magnet thrown under the hood made to look like some component sitting there. The other one wired into the harness with its own relay but definitely not any kind of professional put it in. I used to put GPS trackers and stall systems in cars at a dealership I worked at. You would have to dig pretty hard and long to be able to find them but the way that this was done looked like a kid did it. But anyway, tracked both of them back to California. They're gone now. So now you know where I sit pretty much, I am just so happy to get that sucker running! Thank you all very much for taking time out to help. Now, if you have any advice or tricks about finding a battery drain other than going wire to wire, fuse to fuse, relay to relay
...... I'm all ears.
​

 

as you are probably aware, 12.45 v is not a fully charged 6 cell battery.
The electrical demands of nearly any modern, electronic managed vehicle heightens the need for a suitable power source.
Think of the alternator as a maintainer and not a charger. If the battery is not up to par, you are maintaining a sub par battery… why bother.

All my batteries read 12.6v, after a night of rest.

 

Just wire a small battery maintainer to the battery and plug it in while at home, or buy yourself a small 1.5v solar panel, throw it on the dash and plug it into one of the hot cigarettle ligher ports.

 

The ECU commands the Alternator to charge

The pictures will be for the Diesel instead of the Petrol 3.2 but the way the charging works is the same

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic14252.html


If you determine that the problem is the Alternator then this thread will show you how to get to it (Note: you should replace the Thermostat and the parts identified in the Thread)

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html





As for the P0087

I would replace the Fuel Rail Pressure Sending unit first

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic39122.html



Good Luck

Paul

 

And pray it's not the alternator. Let's just say its replacement is a favorite moneymaker for LR shops.

 

One quick thing, I've determined battery is good. Alternator should kick in as soon as I start the engine increasing voltage, as tested at battery terminals, in the whereabouts of 13.2-14.2v and maintain that voltage, or thereabouts until the engine shuts off. Correct? It's not supposed to stop for any reason and let the battery voltage drop. Correct?

 

No, the voltage regulator will adjust the output voltage to the battery depending on the results of mathematical analysis of input signals to the ECM to calculate electrolyte temperature (there is no sensor in the car to directly monitor the temperature of the battery). That analysis runs constantly in a closed loop. Maintaining high voltage will cause the battery to overheat.

 

Ok, that makes sense but does the alternator shut off all the way to the point where the vehicle is running just off the battery and letting it drop below 12v before k8ck8ng back in?