just replaced my timing chain at a little over 100,000 miles on my Lr2 2013 hse and engine is now shaking and driving rough when slowing down, or sitting at a light. Went back to Independent Landrover shop and they are telling us its the solenoids that are causing this. Has anyone herd of this. We are $4000 in with the timing chain work and not sure if the issues are related to timing chain.

 

Do you have a scan tool that can read all of the modules, and not just the ECU? Without one, we're all just guessing. This is the one I have and it's great for these rigs: https://a.co/d/09O6ERt

Did they say what solenoids? I'm assuming they mean the VVT solenoids, but it would be great to have more specifics. But yes, problems with the solenoids can cause the kind of behavior you're describing. It's also possible that they are worn out if they weren't replaced along with the timing chains. Not a hard job to replace them and most shops can do it if you don't trust that one any more.

 

Yes they did say the VVT Solenoids.. I wasn't sure why they didn't check the VVT when they did the timing chain job and want $650 now to do the VVT Solenoids.

 

What caused you to replace the timing chain in the first place? Timing DTC's? Yeah that could have been caused by either chain or solenoids I think. Maybe shop went straight to the chain because $$$$$$$$$

Also, very, very important: make sure you are running the correct oil weight, the VCT and CPS solenoids meter oil flow to actuate the variable timing, the wrong weight can mess that up.

Also important: run good synthetic oil. Dino oil can clog up the small passages in the variable mechanisms.

 

We had a friend scan for us and timing code came up. We took the truck to them and they also told us timing code. We had issues 3 weeks after the work. We went on a 5hr trip and then restricted mode came up. We made it home and took truck back to them they told us codes for the cam and the work they did came back up so he said they may have forgotten to clear the codes. So they cleared codes charged us 300$ for engine flush. We left and still have the same issues when car come to a stop rough engine.. now he's saying not enough power and they need to change the solenoids which are part of the work they did he said they are just not working right.i asked if the code for solenoids comes up he said something about it reading cold.

 

We still need the exact codes to be able to help you diagnose it. Sounds like the shop took the right course of action for the initial problem you took it to them for. If they did indeed replace the VVT solenoids, then it's not unheard of to get a bad part. What I don't understand is why they're not standing behind their work, charged you for a flush and want another $600 to replace parts they claim they just replaced.

 

We are picking the car up tonight we told them we had to wait to get the funds. My friend is goin to scan it and I will send the codes we get!!

 

P000B

P0027

P052A

P000A

P0026

P0343

P0366

P0367

P0017

P2066

P0461

P0054

P0505

P0300

P0301

P0303

P0304

P1315

P00C6

P162F

These are the current codes. We took the car home and it cut off and would not start and these are the codes we got.

 

It looks like a module connector is not fully engaged.

 

Engaged, connected or with valid operating voltage…
I would start by following the procedure laid out in the workshop manual.
Following the guidelines in the pinpoint tests…
1. Humor us; Without the battery on a charger, without the engine running, and with the vehicle sitting at least 12 hours, what is the voltage reading at the battery with all accessories off.