I read about that somewhere on the forum when searching.. shifting feels quite good but I bet fluid was never changed.

I never thought about that but I'll test it.. do you mean let it go on 6 gear automatically or by selecting gears with shift ****?

 

Have you reset the fuel adaptations, or driven it 75-100 miles since replacing the parts to see if it clears? I had similar problems with a P0170. I didn't have a gap tool at the time to reset the fuel adaptation, but it did over 100 or so miles and the CEL went off.

 

O really want to reset fuel but my scan tool (autel ap200) doesn't let me I believe.. looking around the forum it seems like only with gap tool but I can't afford one right now, have other priorities.. I'll log some miles on highway trip and smoke test it for vacuum leaks. Maybe I have leak somewhere and that's s cause for my gas milage as well

 

Automatically. Before swapping the trans valve solenoids I was around 3k rpm at 70 mph. Now I'm around 1800 - 2100 rpm at that same speed. I also flashed my trans control module with a gap tool around this time. I never paid attention to the number of shifts before. Been running at the lower rpm like this for 3 years now unless towing or in sport mode.

 

Thank you, that makes sense. Where did you bought the solanoids? It was a kit?

 

On the lean code, you need a tool that checks long term and short term trim values to diagnose a vacuum leak. If the difference between LT vs ST trim values at idle is less than the difference at rev, it confirms a vac leak. If those values are all over, it confirms an electrical issue with a sensor.

Some other suggestions:

• Only use DENSO MAF sensors. Others are crap, there is a Toyota branded sensor made by Denso that is identical to the LR sensor and costs just $20.
• O rings in the PCV valve. Should be rubbery, not hard. Don't have to replace the valve unless it's cracked. Just the o rings with the same size/color and some vasoline. Same for:
• O rings inside the PVC tube, both ends + inspect this tube
• O rings in the oil filler neck (bottom) and oil cap (top)
• make sure the oil filler neck is screwed in tightly
• With a cool engine, a deep 14mm socket, and a short handled ratchet, tighten the 14mm nuts on the EGR return pipe where it connects at the back of the engine by the firewall about a foot down. This is the same metal pipe that bolts to the EGR valve. It's WAY back there and not visible, so have someone tap on front of the pipe with a wrench and while you crawl back there and feel around for the back by vibrations.

Other posts have these same suggestions and more, but thought I'd summarize my contributions. Smoke tests never worked for me. The EGR valve doesn't open up until the engine is warm and running so smoke will never get back there.

 

Thank you I'll do that over the weekend. My tool can read fuel trim values, I'll already check it but by that time I didn't know what I was looking for.. now I know !!

 

For the vacuum leak test, absolute trim values don't matter. Look for the relative difference. For example at idle, a LT trim hovering around 20 and a ST trim hovering around 11= a relative difference of 9. At 3k rev, if that relative difference should go down to 6 or 4, it confirms a vac leak. Because rev adds more vacuum pressure than a leak can offset. Like sucking through a straw hard creates some vacuum pressure, but doing so slow creates very little pressure

 

eBay. Authentic ZF kit under product number 1068 298 044. Also replaced the metatronic sleeve (known to leak and was pulling it out as part of the job), ZF valve body sleeves, and transmission plan with the trans filter all for the ZF 6HP19 transmission. I also needed 5 liters of ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid but understand Maxlife works for a fraction of the cost. Total was about $650 US with that expensive fluid and it took about 5 hours.

I went with a steel trans pan because it has a replaceable filter and is easier to install/remove. The ZF transmission pan requires removing a crossmember and jacking up the engine/trans because the filter is built in. I followed guides on this site to hack saw the plastic neck of the old filter so I didn't have to do all that, then swapped with an "upgrade" pan + separate filter. Much easier, but a really messy job no matter the parts. I have to do it again on my 2011 range because it takes a few seconds to get into reverse. Problems getting into gear are usually the $50 valve body sleeves, but might as well swap the rest while doing the job. That fluid is liquid gold.

 

I took a look at it today and at idle my Long term fuel trim is at around -1% and short term fuel trim is at 0%.
Both fluctuate very little, +/-1.

What does that mean in terms vacuum leak?