You never ever have to appologize for posting in a old thread. Its a good thing to keep all the information in ONE topic vs making a new post about the same thing over a silly date. Forum people for some reason would rather have 100 posts each with a new date/topic (scatters the data) vs all in one area. SO please always necro-bump its preffered.

Back to the topic
I still use a synthetic blend and use to got 3500 on all my cards but now I got 5k on my LR3. I never subscribed to lets go till their is sludge to 10,000 miles. I know it can be done but those people never drive cars to over 100k, they dump them at the dealer and the buyer gets a oild burning machine. On all the cars I've done this on none of them burned any oil even at 190,000 miles. My other family members did the change at 8,500 to 10,000 miles and they all were burning oil by 100k. Its a slow process wearing out parts due to slightly less slippery and slightly more dirty oils. Hard to tell at first and easy to tell someone (hey I change at 20,000 car runs fine, but its only got 40,000 on it when they open mouth. I've walked the walk and danced the dance with long term on oils. Cars still have pistons, still use gas, they are not all the different from the old cars. No magic.

Over changing oil is never a bad thing (other than on the wallet) for the car.

 

A semi-synthetic blend is marketing hype as there is no industry standard for what constitutes a “blend”. How do I know this you ask? I used to work with ConocoPhillips and deal with the engineers.

You could take 1 million quarts of oil and add an eye dropper of synthetic to it, and now you have a blend. So less than a hundred thousandth of a percent... or for numbers, a 0.000001% synthetic blend.

Use what the vehicle calls for, which will save you headaches. Upon communication with Castrol, a specialty product was originally intended to promote dealer only servicing and that was:

Castrol EDGE Professional OE 5w30





However, you can substitute Castrol EDGE 5w30 (which is a full synthetic) and can be found super cheap at Costco or the big box stores. It meets nearly identical product data as the professional series. See image below.







One last tid bit... when synthetic oil first came out there were issues with leaks happening as the molecules are so fine that they found pre-existing leaks and damage to rings and hoses.

Synthetic fluid does not cause leaks or damage, it ends up showing you what was hiding in plain sight, and that being many damaged/cracked/dried out rubber parts. Hoses and rings do not last forever especially when you consider how much time they are exposed to intense heat of the engine and cooling. Eventually hoses need to be replaced.


okay... end of rant

have a lovely day

 

That is what I do. Makes it easy. 1/2 the factory schedule (or when it starts ticking on idle at the drive thru)

 

Ticking? If its making mechanical sounds might want to check the level. Thats a bit strange at under 4k.

 

I do it every 5k. 5.0 owners are learning about the extended oil changes first hand

 

Have used synthetic oil in all my vehicles since 1980 and just passed on my 2006 Nissan X-Trail (290K Km) to eldest daughter, no oil lost/burned between changes, oil changed every 5-6K Km. The Land Rover 7,500 mile/12,000 Km oil change interval is likely why in many cases the engines seem to self destruct before reaching the 300K mark. Just my $0.02 worth...

 

I go about 4k between my changes.

Call me a sheep but that 1-2 extra oil changes a year are cheaper than a new motor

 

By the way, does it make sense to take semi-synthetics?

 

Well, of course it's cheaper.

 

Hi friend.

please read post #22 in this thread that I wrote... semi-synthetic oils are marketing BS!