All I am saying is , try Sway bar bushings first , if you have never replaced them, mine were clunking badly and after switch with a new , beefier ones all the noises stopped.

 

For me, the noise was coming from the rear stabilizer bar bushings.

It appears those things have to be replaced along with the engine oil - a routine maintenance affair apparently - well it seems that way!

The part number is LR015336.

 

I have the arnotts also. At first they were somewhat firm. After 2 months, they feel almost like the factory. Im told they are built better, so we shall see!

 

Anyone have suggestions on how to remove the lower control arm for bushing replacement? Special tools? I am confused on the removal of the arm from the hub? Looking for videos of this being done but no luck.

 

Full replacement as you are doing is the smart solution. Purchase all new bolts as at least one of them on each side will be frozen in and have to be cut/punched out.

Special tools are as noted above. By replacing the whole A arm assembly, you do not need a ball joint remover or anything fancier than some metric box end wrenches or sockets.

Bolts are cheap and since everything in the arm is new, replacing all the bolts is a good idea. Consider putting copper paste on the threads for next time removal.

Attached is a link to Bodsy's Brake Bible. If you do not have the 36 page pdf, you should. Once you get the front calipers off, the A arm is relatively easy.

Also use frame jacks; you have to assume the air suspension will collapse and if you do not have any spare fingers, well ....

There are now over 8,000 downloads of the brake pdf - it is that good.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Bodsy's Brake Bible

 

Thanks for the link to the bible. I read in the LR manual you need a special tool to remove the hub from half shaft to remove the lower control arm. Is this true?

 

I think the half shaft bits and most other pieces can just all remain together. Those instructions tend to be for when replacing the upper ball joint as well which for some reason seems to remain OK. I guess maybe the lower ball joint is doing all the work and the upper is just along for the ride - maybe that explains why the lower always needs to be replaced. The new design is better, hence it will be inner tie rod arms with each oil change.

You should probably get a wheel alignment with the new A arms so consider replacing the inner tie rod ends as well; at least look at them as now is the time not after the wheel alignment.

I am used to banging out the lower ball joint by hammering on the threaded bit but the squeezer is a better idea. Just the sound of the banging really is ugly.

I think others should comment on this as well. You have to have some wire or rope to hold up the caliper/brake bits as the shock will not be holding things together. The brake hoses, and on the left side, the wear indicator cable will suffer if all is left hanging and they carry the load.

The important thing is the frame jacks all round per the Bodsy Bible - so you can remain in one piece to be able replace stuff again and again, year after year.

 

bbyer, Thanks this makes sense now. I also found this post with pics that helped too.
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - How to fit new wishbone (lower arm) and track rod end

 

Lower control arm replaced along with spacers for front antiswaybar bushings....and I still have the noise. I am going to take it to a LR dealer to have it checked out. I checked the security of all the other connections when replacing the lower control arm and did not find anything loose. Any suggestions? I hope it is not the Arnotts struts but it is not looking good.

 

The two rear stabilizer bushings, LR part number LR015336, , seem to fail more often than they should.

Apparently they are liquid filled rubber, kind of like some of those chocolates with the soft centres, and when the juice leaks out, you get noise. The interesting part is that when they do leak, the noise generated tends to seem like it comes from the front.

The bushings are not too expensive to purchase but apparently are no fun to replace - just plain hard to get at.

In my case, I have replaced more rear bushings than lower front stabilizer bars or lower ball joints - it seems like almost with every wheel alignment.