All of a sudden No Heat on drivers side vents?
#1
All of a sudden No Heat on drivers side vents?
Hi last night on a short local trip I noticed no heat or current coming out of two drivers side vents ?? (USA drivers side)
Same in the back center console ...on the right warm air..on the left a weak cool/cold air coming in...increasing fan speed having hardly to no effect.
Any ideas what it commonly may be ?
Thanks
Same in the back center console ...on the right warm air..on the left a weak cool/cold air coming in...increasing fan speed having hardly to no effect.
Any ideas what it commonly may be ?
Thanks
#2
Did you have the dial turned all the way up? The system tends to balance each side out so I noticed if my passenger side it set warmer the driver side may get cooler than one thinks it should be outputting. But assuming you did and if it was sudden that tends to make it sound like a blend door issue. If heat output lessens over time (weeks/months) then its usually a clogged heater core. The core itself has no left/right side. Its always flowing, so only the blend doors of the HVAC control the temperature.
#4
#5
You can try this?
Distribution motor self-test:
The self-test can be initiated by pressing and holding the ECON and RECIRC buttons while turning the ignition switch to the ON position.
The control module will then compare the current motor position with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.
If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.
To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position. Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.
If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.
Distribution motor self-test:
The self-test can be initiated by pressing and holding the ECON and RECIRC buttons while turning the ignition switch to the ON position.
The control module will then compare the current motor position with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.
If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.
To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position. Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.
If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.
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EastCoast (04-12-2021)
#6
#8
$3,500? Thats the price you give someone when you dont want to do the work, unless they are crazy enough to pay it. I had the pleasure of digging deep into another LR3. Entire interior out. Honestly hey core does not look too bad to replace but a lot has to come out to make it possible. One of those things that your average DIYer might take two days to tackle the first time, one hour the next time. lol
edit: Also, if sudden I doubt its the core. The build-up that degrades its output on the left side takes time. Suddenly not having heat leads to a blend door issue.
edit: Also, if sudden I doubt its the core. The build-up that degrades its output on the left side takes time. Suddenly not having heat leads to a blend door issue.
#9
I am hoping its a blend door issue, but I just purchased the vehicle a few weeks back so it's possible it had been developing a clog for awhile.
I know replacing the core involves taking apart the whole dash, so yea the price seemed like a "we don't want the hassle of the time this is going to take".
I know replacing the core involves taking apart the whole dash, so yea the price seemed like a "we don't want the hassle of the time this is going to take".
#10