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Alternator - for info and reference

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Old 11-02-2019 | 02:00 PM
rsvrman's Avatar
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Default Alternator - for info and reference

I recently replaced my original alternator about a month ago. My original was still working, however as I was over 100k I wanted to replace as a preventative maintenance plan.

I bought a remy remanufactured from rock auto. For rebuilt ones they seemed to have the best reviews. Reading forums it seems to be a split on rebuild vs new. I rolled the dice... and got snake eyes.

First time stranded in the LR3, but it was not it’s fault it was mine. I should have bought a new oem denso.

I did have about 5 minutes of run time once it went out. First the battery light, then the suspension, then the brake light transmission fault light. Eventually every light came on until I barely made it to my next exit ramp. It felt like Christmas, everything was chiming and dinging. My tachometers we’re dancing up and down to the tunes. And I was swearing. Just like the holidays.

I had it towed and thankfully due to my procrastination I had not yet sent back in the core.

I took out the remy and also brought the denso to both the local orileys and autozone to have them bench tested. They both tested pass at each store. So on various other forums I read that those machines do not properly load test the alternator. Found it to be the case with mine as well.

Before I started digging into all the connections I threw in my old factory one. Plugged in my ID tool (wisest purchase ever) showed the 14v at idle. Drove to the gas station and all is good.

I have since bought a brand new denso oem alternator and it will go in next week. I already have a new battery so I knew it wasn’t that.

I’m posting this for others that it will come up as a search later on for reference.

My advice don’t buy a remanufactured. Buy an OEM, unless you want to be cheap and roll the dice. Buy once cry once. And do not trust the bench machines. My new one showed no voltage when running on load.


 
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