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So, the rear diff is starting to whine, Not so much as needing to be replaced RIGHT NOW, but it is coming in the next few months or so.
I see a vender that offers a rebuilt diff (front and rear) with the ARB air locker already installed. Seeing the benefits my Jeep friends enjoy in deep sand it has me wondering if it is worth doing, and if so how it will affect, or be affected by any terrain response settings. It does seem that the terrain response (and open diffs) get me through much the same stuff as my friends Jeeps do, but the sand seems to be more difficult for me.(me on stock size tires and them on 32's or even 40's surely would not make any difference)
Anyone install one yet? How well does it play with the terrain response in the LR3?
I believe people have...and hopefully someone will respond with some intel for you. Otherwise you may have to spend some time searching the interwebs and going down LR3 rabbit holes.
I can speculate, though, that the Terrain Response will likely just treat the ARB like an open diff and everything else will work. Of course, you will have manual control over the locking of the ARB. Bummer you can't get the E-locker that comes with the HD package, but to retrofit that sounds like $$$$.
I have started down the rabbit hole already but have yet to see the right rabbit. I suppose I could just leave the terrain response in normal mode and lock the diff, but I do like the way the computer handles most of the messes I get myself into.
As for the factory locking diff....... Never again. They are way too costly to maintain for the amount that they actually lock up. And considering I find myself in water up to the top of tires a few times a year, changing out that rear diff fluid (also known as unicorn tears) is quite pricey compares to normal fluids.
Plus I have had replace one that had a motor go out and another with bad clutch disks at $900 and $1600 respectively. So if there is an air locker for those few times I REALLY NEED one and it works with the terrain response I would be overjoyed. Maybe.
What I'm saying per my speculation is that you probably wouldn't have to stay in Normal TR mode, but would have to manually lock regardless of the TR Mode selected.
I understand your points about the factory E-Locker. While what you say is all true, I think it's still worth it. The seamless integration with the rest of the drivetrain is nice. I think the failing actuator motor may have had to do with your bad clutch disks. I also learned that the hard way, and changed it all out, so that actuator is pretty fresh. I now change my fluid every 3 years, which is about 5k miles for my usage.
As for the amount that they actually lock up....why would you care? As long as you are getting the traction you need, why second-guess the computer? ....and if you're in Rock Crawl, it's gonna be locked up the vast majority of the time, unless there is something wrong with it. I'm typically in Mud 'n Ruts with DSC off, and 4-Lo. That is my typical set-up right there, for the Pacific NW....and the rear locker has never let me down. I can count the times I've been traction-limited on one finger, and that was such deep and nasty mud that it wasn't on account of the locker, it just didn't matter. I needed more momentum and I didn't push it, so that's driver error or a lack of commitment. Anyway, I digress....
TR should not really car too much if at all. It controls slip but you will be limiting that in the rear. Drive as you always have and engage the locker as needed.
Rufflyer, I had a whining rear diff in my LR3 and had an ARB locking rear diff put in with a full bearing kit about 1500 miles ago. After 1000 miles and a couple of fluid changes, I took it on some trails and, so far, it's felt great. It doesn't affect traction control at all. When it's off, it's an open diff, when it's on, there is no slip for the traction control system to sense. That's it.
After installing an ARB locking diff, I find it really hard to understand why people look so hard for HDs and pay premiums for them when they find them. Just find the non-HD model with the best used specs and put an ARB in it, that way you have control of when it locks and when it doesn't.
As an interesting (to me) side note. I asked to have the old bearings back from the shop in SoCal that did my differential rebuild (because I'm an engineer/nerd), and once I saw them it was very apparent where the noise was coming from. The bearings were all coated in a thin layer of surface rust. I believe that the truck had been sitting for a while, and probably had had very infrequent (if any) diff fluid changes. Here are some photos. Failure modes are kind of fascinating.
...but I'd think that it's cost and integration. In other words if one could find an HD variant, it would be cheaper than finding an open-diff and then adding the ARB, at least it seems that way.
You point out a great alternative though, for sure.
Sorry for the delay in getting back. We have a beach trip on Saturday down the south Texas coast and the rover is been torn apart for a few days. On Wednesday afternoon, I received what I believe to be one of the last few remaining genuine LR winch kits left on the planet, so I have been busy completing all 138 steps in the instruction book before then. -------I think I am going to make it.------ Last time we did this trip more one of us joined the drift wood on the beach as a mostly unmovable object. This time I will have an earth anchor and a winch, so even if my friends apply the "Top Gear rule" (i.e. driving off and leaving me alone) I will be prepared.
Originally Posted by evsteroo
Rufflyer, ............ I took it on some trails and, so far, it's felt great. It doesn't effect traction control at all. When it's off, it's an open diff, when it's on, there is no slip for the traction control system to sense. That's it.
After installing an ARB locking diff, I find it really hard to understand why people look so hard for HDs and pay premiums for them when they find them. Just find the non-HD model with the best used specs and put an ARB in it, that way you have control of when it locks and when it doesn't.
evsteroo: THAT is just what I was looking for. Thanks for the detailed description. I will be making the change over when the rear diff goes out. I think I may have a plan to make both front and back lockers. My front one is basically new. I may play musical differentials with my son when his goes out (he has 140,000 so that could this year or next depending on how much swimming his Rover does in MO creeks this summer.
Either way I have all 8 control arms ready for suspension refresh next winter, maybe I will proactively swap the diff at that time.
Houm_wa, I agree that in some cases it could be easier and cheaper to find an HD model than to have the ARB diff installed. From my experience, though, having shopped for an LR3 last year (and purchased a non-HD, obviously) from Southern California, it seemed like HD models were going for a premium over non-HD models, if they were even available (I only found one during my search and it was much too far away for me to even consider).
After having shopped for an HD model and having had an ARB differential installed on a non-HD model, I'd say the added cost and the complexity of either situation is about the same, and, IMHO if you're able to find a good shop to do the rebuild and install of the ARB, you end up with a more capable truck in the end.
05-03-2021, 07:01 AM
Anyone using ARB Air Lockers in their LR3?
