Block Heater Installation for Dummies...
#1
Block Heater Installation for Dummies...
Ive got a 2008 LR3 HSE with 104,000... I no longer have a garage and will be parking my baby outside in the frigid tundra of no mans land Wyoming. So Id like to install a block heater. I used the search function and could not find much info for an LR3 installation. I also checked the service manuals thanks to the link from Savannah Buzz, but couldnt find much about a block heater installation...
So here are my questions...
1) What parts do I need? I think I need Termo 3600005 for the cord and Termo 3100107 for the actual heater. Can anyone verify this is correct?
2) Is there a shop manual or step by step guide on installation any where? The simpler the better haha
3) What tools will I need?
4) What supplies will I need besides Dex-Cool? ie Gaskets, sealant etc...
5) I have no idea what I will need to remove to get this done but are there any other maintenance things I could/should be doing while Im in there to maximize all of the effort? Belts? Thermostat? I dunno.
Thank you in advance for any and all tips and advice. I truly appreciate it!
-K9 Hexe
So here are my questions...
1) What parts do I need? I think I need Termo 3600005 for the cord and Termo 3100107 for the actual heater. Can anyone verify this is correct?
2) Is there a shop manual or step by step guide on installation any where? The simpler the better haha
3) What tools will I need?
4) What supplies will I need besides Dex-Cool? ie Gaskets, sealant etc...
5) I have no idea what I will need to remove to get this done but are there any other maintenance things I could/should be doing while Im in there to maximize all of the effort? Belts? Thermostat? I dunno.
Thank you in advance for any and all tips and advice. I truly appreciate it!
-K9 Hexe
#2
right heater, wrong cord
The link below is to a file of mine listing the Temro part numbers I used re installation of a Temro block heater and cord in the 4.4L AJV8 in my 2005 LR3 HSE.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/dis...um=3801&pos=39
Re your cord part number, Temro 3600007, the length is 5 feet which is correct but the connector at the block heater end shows as the very common rounded type. Unfortunately, LR as is usual, requires the less common rectangular shaped end. This is Temro part number 3600003.
You have the correct threaded Temro heater number, 3100107 which is for the brass body heater, necessary due to the aluminum block.
The heater threads into an opening on the drivers side rear near the bottom of the engine block. The location is near impossible to access however.
If there is any good news, if your 3 was a Colorado market built vehicle, it may be that the AJV8 engine already has the proper block heater installed.
It seems that if the LR engine factory had the USA spec block heater in inventory at the time of an engine build, that the block heater may have been installed. The cord never was provided as that was an assembly line function and the line never inventoried the 120VAC cords.
What I am saying is put your three up on frame jacks, pull the protective skid plates near the rear of the engine and look for the block heater - it just may be there already. If so, do not cheer too much as just installing the cord is tough enough.
If you cannot see the block heater, well you have to find the threaded plug location anyway. The big problem will be bleeding air out of the system so use the opportunity to totally replace all the coolant and you may as well install a new thermostat as well. Actually replace the whole plastic assembly holding the thermostat, LR part number LR005631, and the bleeder tee, LR027661.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/dis...um=3801&pos=39
Re your cord part number, Temro 3600007, the length is 5 feet which is correct but the connector at the block heater end shows as the very common rounded type. Unfortunately, LR as is usual, requires the less common rectangular shaped end. This is Temro part number 3600003.
You have the correct threaded Temro heater number, 3100107 which is for the brass body heater, necessary due to the aluminum block.
The heater threads into an opening on the drivers side rear near the bottom of the engine block. The location is near impossible to access however.
If there is any good news, if your 3 was a Colorado market built vehicle, it may be that the AJV8 engine already has the proper block heater installed.
It seems that if the LR engine factory had the USA spec block heater in inventory at the time of an engine build, that the block heater may have been installed. The cord never was provided as that was an assembly line function and the line never inventoried the 120VAC cords.
What I am saying is put your three up on frame jacks, pull the protective skid plates near the rear of the engine and look for the block heater - it just may be there already. If so, do not cheer too much as just installing the cord is tough enough.
If you cannot see the block heater, well you have to find the threaded plug location anyway. The big problem will be bleeding air out of the system so use the opportunity to totally replace all the coolant and you may as well install a new thermostat as well. Actually replace the whole plastic assembly holding the thermostat, LR part number LR005631, and the bleeder tee, LR027661.
Last edited by bbyer; 12-26-2017 at 06:57 AM.
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K9Hexe (01-18-2015)
#3
She is a SoCal girl...
My baby started out as a Southern California girl from Anaheim Hills Land Rover. Last year I picked her up from Santa Monica Rover (DO NOT EVER GO THERE!!) and introduced her to a much harsher environment.
But Ill get up under there and check to see if its already there or not thanks to now knowing where to look. Would my VIN number tell me if has one installed or not? Just curious...
I will definitely replace all of the dexcool. Im gonna look up the plastic assembly and thermostat replacement procedure and hopefully knock that out at the same time. Im assuming this procedure is prudent at the same time because there will be no coolant in the lines or system?
Assuming my girl doesnt have one already in there... Do I need to seal the heater with anything as I screw it in?
-K9 Hexe
But Ill get up under there and check to see if its already there or not thanks to now knowing where to look. Would my VIN number tell me if has one installed or not? Just curious...
I will definitely replace all of the dexcool. Im gonna look up the plastic assembly and thermostat replacement procedure and hopefully knock that out at the same time. Im assuming this procedure is prudent at the same time because there will be no coolant in the lines or system?
Assuming my girl doesnt have one already in there... Do I need to seal the heater with anything as I screw it in?
-K9 Hexe
#4
air locks are the concern
This link better shows where the block heater is located. Well perhaps not better as the vehicle is missing. At the engine factory, the block heater install is easy. There is no sealing or goos required; in theory the plug unscrews and the block heater screws back in.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...drain_plug.pdf
I doubt the VIN will indicate if the block heater is installed. In theory it was part of the Cold Climate Package and even if indicated, since the engine factory inventory was always confused, while the package called for the heater, the plug often got installed instead.
The reason you change out as much as practical related to the cooling system is that not only is the draining a fuss, (no drains; instead disconnect a hose), but refilling and air bubble removal is even worse. It takes a couple of hours if all goes well. As such, you do not want to be opening up the cooling system more than necessary. Too many air locks and some of the aluminum internals melt.
When filling have the front and rear heaters on full heat to encourage circulation.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...drain_plug.pdf
I doubt the VIN will indicate if the block heater is installed. In theory it was part of the Cold Climate Package and even if indicated, since the engine factory inventory was always confused, while the package called for the heater, the plug often got installed instead.
The reason you change out as much as practical related to the cooling system is that not only is the draining a fuss, (no drains; instead disconnect a hose), but refilling and air bubble removal is even worse. It takes a couple of hours if all goes well. As such, you do not want to be opening up the cooling system more than necessary. Too many air locks and some of the aluminum internals melt.
When filling have the front and rear heaters on full heat to encourage circulation.
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K9Hexe (01-18-2015)
#6
I just installed the cord on my block heater,
I was able to do it from the driver's side wheel well, you need to remove two heat shields, it looks like one, but its actually two parts, (3x 10mm nuts, 1x 10mm bolt on the right side of the wishbone mount) the smaller part comes out, the larger one I tucked in below the catalytic converter.
I could then reach around the upper wishbone mount, and put in the cord; I couldn't get it all the way in, so a long pry bar through where the shields were, and I was able to push it home.
If I tried that route first, it would have taken me 15-20 mins beginning to end. Took longer to figure it out, and I didn't want to lie in a pile of wet snow underneath anyway
I was able to do it from the driver's side wheel well, you need to remove two heat shields, it looks like one, but its actually two parts, (3x 10mm nuts, 1x 10mm bolt on the right side of the wishbone mount) the smaller part comes out, the larger one I tucked in below the catalytic converter.
I could then reach around the upper wishbone mount, and put in the cord; I couldn't get it all the way in, so a long pry bar through where the shields were, and I was able to push it home.
If I tried that route first, it would have taken me 15-20 mins beginning to end. Took longer to figure it out, and I didn't want to lie in a pile of wet snow underneath anyway
The following users liked this post:
bbyer (12-24-2017)
#8
Block heater cord part number?
I just installed the cord on my block heater,
I was able to do it from the driver's side wheel well, you need to remove two heat shields, it looks like one, but its actually two parts, (3x 10mm nuts, 1x 10mm bolt on the right side of the wishbone mount) the smaller part comes out, the larger one I tucked in below the catalytic converter.
I could then reach around the upper wishbone mount, and put in the cord; I couldn't get it all the way in, so a long pry bar through where the shields were, and I was able to push it home.
If I tried that route first, it would have taken me 15-20 mins beginning to end. Took longer to figure it out, and I didn't want to lie in a pile of wet snow underneath anyway
I was able to do it from the driver's side wheel well, you need to remove two heat shields, it looks like one, but its actually two parts, (3x 10mm nuts, 1x 10mm bolt on the right side of the wishbone mount) the smaller part comes out, the larger one I tucked in below the catalytic converter.
I could then reach around the upper wishbone mount, and put in the cord; I couldn't get it all the way in, so a long pry bar through where the shields were, and I was able to push it home.
If I tried that route first, it would have taken me 15-20 mins beginning to end. Took longer to figure it out, and I didn't want to lie in a pile of wet snow underneath anyway
Last edited by bbyer; 12-26-2017 at 06:58 AM.
#9
The cord was the Tempro one (pn earlier in the thread) with the square opening
The following users liked this post:
bbyer (12-26-2017)
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