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Cleaned Battery Terminals. Now won't start.

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Old 01-16-2020, 09:49 AM
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Default Cleaned Battery Terminals. Now won't start.

Yesterday I installed a new brake light switch and decided to clean some corrosion off of my battery terminals. When I was finished my 2005 LR3 started. However, a couple hours later when I went to leave the house it wouldn't start. I had interior and dash lights, but the rover would only click once and then not do anything else. Today, I charged the battery up and my charger says that it is still a good battery, but the moment I went to try and start the vehicle I lost all power and the car would not start. I didn't want to go out an buy a new battery only to discover it might be a connection or a fuse problem. Any ideas?

Thanks.

Update:

Tried to start the LR3 again and now the whole dash lights up and blinks with a multitude of error messages but won't start.
 

Last edited by mmurphy536; 01-16-2020 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 01-16-2020, 02:50 PM
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Offhand would advise you to check those battery cable terminals, sounds like corrosion is limiting the flow of current to your starter motor but allowing enough current to operate the solenoid. That's where one should start looking, it could also be a defective starter motor, I'm sure others will have more information shortly...
 
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Old 01-16-2020, 03:04 PM
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^ What he said.
 
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Old 01-16-2020, 03:57 PM
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I rechecked the terminals and everything looked clean...recleaned just in case. I've got plenty of power to the car (headlights, radio, interior lights, ect) all working as if there is full power. When I turn the key to start the vehicle everything on the dash starts blinking and every error message available comes up. It looks like twinkle christmas lights on the dash. Could it be the transfer case computer module or some other computer glitch?
 

Last edited by mmurphy536; 01-16-2020 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 01-16-2020, 04:44 PM
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What did you use to clean the terminals? That module below the battery is the likely culprit IMO. The connector faces up and if any caustic solutions or anything got into that connector - it will behave as you describe. It's poor design from LR putting that computer where they did in a non weather proof case with a connector oriented the way they did. Not saying that is the culprit - but it sure could be.
 
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Old 01-16-2020, 09:20 PM
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Did you put the battery clamps ALL the way down? They are tapered, so if you tighten them too high the contact area is horrible even though they look 100% secured. I GENTLY tap them down before tightening. Normally the battery terminal stud is higher than the clamp.
 
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Old 01-16-2020, 09:47 PM
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Another thought...
The other end of the cable connecting to the starter motor could also be oxidized? It also is possible that the starter solenoid terminals have decided to give up the ghost, letting you hear the "click" but not conducting enough current to turn over the engine. Unfortunately, you will have to become an electrical detective to solve this...
 
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Old 01-16-2020, 10:18 PM
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Oh, and did you inspect the ground? It attached just behind the fuse box. Its a known point of corrosion.
 
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Old 01-17-2020, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by mmurphy536
I rechecked the terminals and everything looked clean...recleaned just in case. I've got plenty of power to the car (headlights, radio, interior lights, ect) all working as if there is full power. When I turn the key to start the vehicle everything on the dash starts blinking and every error message available comes up. It looks like twinkle christmas lights on the dash. Could it be the transfer case computer module or some other computer glitch?
Still sounds like a voltage problem, or else a starter motor, lights on dash is usually an indication of a distant electrical problem, Land Rovers and electrical problems are unfortunately, synonymous. Did I spell that right?
 

Last edited by enb54; 01-18-2020 at 04:36 PM. Reason: corrected synonymous
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Old 01-17-2020, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
Did you put the battery clamps ALL the way down? They are tapered, so if you tighten them too high the contact area is horrible even though they look 100% secured. I GENTLY tap them down before tightening. Normally the battery terminal stud is higher than the clamp.
I checked and they are down.
 


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