Beautiful. This is exactly the sort of insight I was looking for - the little ways in which having vs not having eas impact the daily experience of the rig. I also plan to road trip the rig so a good comfy ride is as important to me as being able to hit some fire roads and sleep in it.

Thanks.

 

Something to consider is what size tires are you going to run? if you run bigger tires (I think 30's and bigger, but someone correct this) and lose the air suspension, you run the risk of rubbing your wheel wells and possibly the wiring behind it. Non suspension faults can lead to limp mode which puts the truck on its bumpstops. I had this happen when a rat chewed through a transmission temperature wire and it went into limp mode. I run 32's so I couldn't drive the car far or more than 30 miles per hour safely. I personally like the air suspension as the car stays level regardless how much weight I'm carrying. With front and rear steel bumpers, overlanding gear and often carrying 4-6 people its still a smooth ride. I haven't ridden in a coil lr3 so take this with a grain of salt. Forgot to mention before the edit but being in deep snow its nice to have the ability to adjust how high you ride, as you can get more clearance. And when a truck enviably gets stuck, you can lower the suspension and use it as a pretty effective anchor. Having it auto raise into super extended mode is nice as it gives you another shot while your still moving so you can keep momentum.

 

I'm running the SYA kit from Lucky 8. It includes the Rhino Rods and the 2inch spacers. I am running 275/65R18's on my 06 RRS (basically the same as the LR3 with the exception of the swaybar links up front and upper control arms). I had 1 of the line splices fail and basically blow out going down the road. Since I have the spacers it acts like a bump stop and she rested on those and I was able to drive and steer with no issues until I could pull over in a safe spot and drop the RF airbag/shock and make the repair to the air line splice.

The front limiting straps on the RRS are quick and easy, but I am not a fan of how the rear are supposed to mount up. I was testing my setup and the LR sway bar link exploded due to the control arms dropping to much. I'm still tinkering with the rear limiting straps, but the spacers certainly do work if you're running larger tires.

I know I can use the GAP Tool and simply adjust my ride height, but the RRS is being built up for off road and I'm not planning on going back n forth to smaller tires (and my stock OEM rod's were about to simply fall apart). The EAS is LR's party piece and when it works = nothing can really compare to it. However as mentioned above some other failures can bring you down to the bump stops and if you had large tires without a Gap Tool to override the faults you're up a creek without a paddle.

People have complained that the spacers change the ride quality and it's due to the bags not having as much air in them. However I also noticed when I just had the Rhino Rod's in before the spacers my RRS cornered like a total pig..... All the extra air in the bags made it super stiff in the corners. Now with the spacers and technically less air for the height (entire assembly is dropped 2inches) it corners like a dream again, however I do notice the ride is a bit more sport feeling as it's no longer in it's OEM range of air/height. I'll personally take that any day vs riding home on the bump stops like I did back in the day with my P38 and LR3..... That was an awful experience I don't want anyone to go thru!!! EAS is basically awesome up until it isn't!

 

32" + tires would potentially rub if on bump stops, but let's clarify something: very few issues would put you on bump stops in an unrecoverable fashion. Suddenly dead compressor....and hole in an airbag, is about it.

Any other failure, you can get the suspension back up to at least Normal height, and pull Fuse 26. Done; drive home. Fix later. As for the "get the suspension back up" part....well an IIDTool helps. If you don't have one of those (or equivalent) then we shouldn't even be having this conversation!

 

Wait pulling fuse 26 won't drop the suspension even with faults??? Are there any other tricks to keep the air in the bags?

 

Yeah I definitely won't be going full offroader 30+ on mine because I also want it to be a good around town dd from time to time, but would still probably get some decent a/t's on there. Winter is real here so it's nice to have a tire that can do street and fire lookouts for half the year, and a pair of snow tires for the other half - it's just expensive af once you get a new car lol. Although the upside is that you also only wear your tires half as fast.

Definitely looking forward to the auto leveling, hitting deep snow, and being able to adjust height - glad to get a thumbs up on those experiences. I think ultimately I might steer away from the coils, just sort of getting the reinforcement from a few comments here (combined with generally lurking on these forums a bit) that it's nice to have is enough to solidify my original though on sticking with EAS.

Now I just have to be patient enough to wait for one to pop up and hope I can get it from a distance for a fly and buy before someone else shows up with a stack of cash on it lol.

Thanks for the insight.

 

We are all doing "30+" because it comes with 30s.

As long as you have your suspension at the height you want, pulling Fuse 26 will keep you there. It creates its own fault, but whatever.

 

Stick with the air and get an electronic lifter, minus 2 to plus 4" in the twist of a dial. I just upgraded from 265/60 to 265/65/18 and the ride is still awesome even with aging original struts .

 

So I'll take this as a learning moment that's going to make me sound dumber than I am but - if everyone is doing "30+" then how the heck is that measured?

Because in my mind the rim is usually 18 or 19 (or sometimes 20) and an official tire size is something like 255/55R19. So I assumed reference to "30s" someone putting an abormally large rubber tire on an 18 or 19 rim which would equate to a giant rockcrawling-*** tire based on what I assumed I knew about understsanding tire measurements. So a 30" tire - 18" rim = 21" sidewall which seems...ginormous and like something I'd have to go very out of my way to purchase.

School me please, because it sounds like my deduction of what "30s" refer to has been wrong if everyone's rocking them like you said.

 

No you got it wrong, 30" being the overall diameter regardless of rim size. So that equates to roughly 255/50 on a 20" rim , 255/55 on a 19" rim and 255/60 on an 18" rim. So the smaller the rim size the larger the sidewall depth which is what you want we you want/need to air down on the trail, which is why aftermarket companies specifically make 18" rims to fit the D4 that will clear the larger calipers.
In Australia the D4 came in 4 engine variants , 2.7 TDV6 which can take 17" factory rims and the 3.0 TDV6, 5ltr V8 and 3.0SCV6 which all require factory 19" rims or aftermarket 18's.
30 - 18 =12 which gives a 6" sidewall height.