I'm converting my newly purchased 05 LR3 back to air suspension. It had been converted to coil suspension by one of the prior owners. I do not see that they installed the module necessary to satisfy the EAS, that it no longer has air suspension. I was receiving a suspension fault, but the indicator was only amber so it will let me drive it, but not without a lot of bings and bongs. It has a brand new compressor. The compressor runs and now only minimally after rebuilding all the valve blocks, fixing a number of cracked / dried out o-rings. I installed new air struts. There doesn't appear to be any leaks now. Upon lowering the truck, the front suspension fell to the bump stops, but the rear remains at normal height. The suspension fault indicator is now red. I didn't mess with the wheel height sensors. They are still installed and reading the appropriate heights for all wheels. I can jack the front end up, putting the front wheels at a normal height and the suspension fault will clear. I tried to slowly lower the vehicle while running the engine (thus compressor) to see if it would supply air to the front and maintain height, but it still just falls to the bump stops. Something is either preventing air flow to the front struts or the EAS system is not sending the signal to supply air to the front struts. Again, it doesn't appear that the prior owner installed any sort of module when converting it to coil, or perhaps I haven't found it yet. I checked all the harnesses leading to the EAS module under the driver's side console and there was no module or anything tampered with. Is there another method they would have done to disable the air suspension system? Why are only my front struts down? Despite the suspension fault clearing when jacking up the front end, I'm still not able to raise or lower the suspension and the special functions are still not available. There still must be some sort of suspension fault I'm not aware of. BTW, I'm fixing this car for my daughter, and we're on a very tight budget. I'm planning on purchasing a GAP iiD tool, but I can't afford it at this moment. I only have a dumb $20 scanner currently and I don't think it even clears the faults when I ask it to. Am I just screwed until I get the tool? Is there anyway to trick the EAS system to inflate the front struts? Thank you all for your help and expertise.

 

First thing to know is that the front and rear valve blocks are not interchangeable. So if there is a chance you mixed em up, that could be part of it. Also people do mess up the lines that connect. They assume the green, for example, is supply. It is not. Green lines go to left struts, black to right and also black for supply - as least I think it is green to left side? Anyway, green is not supply and if they lines are mixed up you can have the issue you have. People have done it! Also make certain the valve block connector is seated! Give it a tug. Dirt can get in them making it hard to get a solid "click" when installing. Or inside the plug the weather seal can slip and cause binding. A little silicone spray, just not on the pins, can help a ton.

 

Is there any messaging on the dash that describes the suspension fault? What does your $20 scanner say?

A calibration of the EAS may be all that is needed, but you'll need the IIDTool (or equivalent) to do that.

 

Thank you for your replies. Thank you for taking interest and the time to respond. I really feel supported. You're an invaluable group of people.

I rebuilt the valve block one at a time so I didn't get them confused with each other. I did check and cleaned all my connections (air and electrical) and everything is correct and secure. Unfortunately I've got bigger issues than I imagined. Where do I even start...

Fault Codes: I do want a iiD tool, but I don't like that its so expensive and exclusive to Land Rover (and to a particular VIN for that matter). I know its the gold standard and I'll probably need it, IDK. I bought a Launch Creader Elite 2.0 and though it can't do nearly as much as the iiD tool can do, I think it will do what I need it to do. Unfortunately, performing a suspension calibration did not fix my suspension. The vehicle won't even let me perform a calibration. Despite getting the suspension fault (either amber or red) to clear from the dash, there is still a fault which is preventing it from working. Below is the list of faults founds. I know that it could be one singular issue resulting in all these faults. I'm hoping its a bad electrical connection or faulty ground. If you have any suspicions as to what I should check, I would really appreciate it. Oh perhaps before reading the huge list of fault perhaps I should mention what I've done so far to try to resolve such faults. I replace sunroof drain tube rubber grommets. Removed central junction box / connections, inspected for water damage, cleaned and reinstalled. Removed ECM & TCCM / connections, inspected for water damage, cleaned and reinstalled. Replace front right wheel speed sensor. Replaced brake light switch. Removed chassis harnesses to main harness connectors (driver's side, rear wheel), clean and reinstalled. Calibrated steering wheel angle sensor. Regarding the suspension I've tested all the valves, height sensors, compressor, etc. Those items all appear to be functioning fine. Hmm... I'm probably forgetting something I've done, but what ever it was, it didn't resolve the issue. Oh, the battery is 2 years old, but its in good shape, plus I've going a charger/maintaining on it. I also ordered replacement running light bulb (T10s). These were the only lights I found to be burnt out.

ECM
P0500-00 Vehicle Speed Sensor A -Pending
P0504-64 Brake switch A/B Correlation -Intermittent
C0034-00 Front Right Wheel Speed Sensor -Pending

ACTM
U0416-94 Invalid Data Received from VDC module -Pending
U0403-94 Invalid Data Received from TCCM -Pending
U0421-94 Invalid Data Received from Ride Level Control Module -Pending

PBM
U0122-87 Lost Communication with VDC Module -Permanent

Rear Differential Control Module
P080A-00 Clutch Position not Learnt -Permanent
P186D-00 Clutch Actuator is Stuck -Intermittent

VDC Module
C1A96-62 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit -Permanent
C1A94-13 Front Right Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit -Permanent
U1A4A-68 Invalid Data Received from Differential Control Module -Rear -Intermittent

TCCM
U0122-87 Lost Communication with VDC Module -Permanent

Body Control Module
B1A99-4C Power On Reset -Pending
B1B02-28 Low Frequency Coil -Permanent
B1B565-87 Rain Sensor Module -Intermittent
B1BA0-66 Suspicious Starting Activity -Permanent
B1C57-14 Unused Relay Drive -Intermittent
B1C60-12 Sidelamps Relay Output Circuit -Intermittent
B1D12-15 Volumetric Alarm Power Circuit -Intermittent
U0155-87 Lost Communication with VDC Module -Intermittent

There appears to be a lot of similar faults stating "lost communication with VDC module" or "invalid data received from VDC module". I don't believe there is an actual VDC module. It's my understanding the VDC module is a combination of sensors and systems, etc. It's just a matter of finding what sensor(s), connector(s) or wire(s) are at fault. I really hoping this isn't an issue with an ECU. Perhaps if I have an iiD tool, I would be able to flash a used ECU into the car, but my abilities only go so far.

I have had the battery disconnected a few times (to remove ECU & TCCM modules). I know that action can result in error codes. I've found that driving the car around a little can resolve some of the faults. I witnessed the front right speed sensor fault and the VSS fault clear after driving it, but unfortunately with the new air struts installed on the vehicle and the air suspension not working, I cannot even move the car out of my garage. Below is another problem I'm experiencing.

Perhaps this should be a separate discussion, I'm questioning the air struts I have on the vehicle. I purchased the truck from the prior owner who apparently intended to convert it back to air suspension themselves, but either never got around to it or tried and fail. There is probably a bigger back story here, but I'm not privy to it. BTW the prior owner did tell me "buyer beware", so the situation I'm in is of my actions and I take responsibility for them. I got a really good deal on the truck so I feel I'm ahead, especially if I can fix it myself. We'll see if I still feel ahead later, time will tell. Back to the struts, the seller sold me the truck with new pairs of front and rear Maxpeedingrods brand air struts. I don't think these struts fit the vehicle. With the air struts installed the rear tires are almost 5 inches from the fender well (not wheel arches) when sitting on the bump stops. I first thought the rear air suspension was working because of how high it was sitting, but no, it's resting on the bump stops. Once the air suspension is working, I'm concerned it will still be resting on the bump stops even when set to normal height or if I raise the vehicle in order to have some damping, the addition height will destroy the ball joints and cv-axles. Now with these Maxpeedingrods air struts on the front end, I'm having the opposite problem. It's almost resting on the ground. It's so low the front wheels, which are stock size, rest hard up against the fender well, making it undrivable. Now I've read that this may be normal and that they sell SYA "save your ***" strut extenders to prevent the wheels from bottoming out, making it drivable if you lose air suspension. Those extenders are not cheap. How much clearance should there be between the wheels and the fender well when resting on the bump stops? I can't afford to buy new struts for the vehicle currently. I might have to put the coil struts back on for now if these Maxpeedingrods are junk. Are there any cheaper ways to extend the front struts and shorten the back struts?

Thank you all for your help!

 

I've had my EAS totally fail and my LR3 was still drivable. Not an enjoyable drive but still driveable.
It might be time to consider getting new struts and starting over, the ones you have sound like they aren't really to spec.

So as I read it, you can't afford a Gap tool and can't afford new struts. I hate to sound like a gatekeeper but if you can't afford those items you'd be better off putting the coils back on and saving up.
If you are going to own and drive a LR3 or LR4 you should have a Gap tool, it is really the keys to the kingdom. It's the difference between a poor ownership experience that grinds your wallet into the dirt until you give up and sell the rover at a loss like the bottle imp, or an enthusiast experience driving one of the best vehicles that you might ever own. The LR3/LR4 platform is a great machine but the newest of them is 9 years old and the oldest is 20, and I would put money on the notion that those of us who love them the most have the diagnostic equipment to keep up with the sometimes demented and demanding beasts they are.

 

You have far, far more to worry about than the air suspension. But clear those codes again and see what actually comes back as a low battery or other things can cause false codes. But several of those would flat out disable EAS and terrain modes. Example being ABS sensors, if ABS is down so is the terrain system. Also VDC is not really often used to call it what it is, but it is referring to the Vehicle Dynamics Module. Also your rear diff faults will disable terrain, traction control and I am pretty sure even the air suspension as I had this fault at one point. The systems are all very integrated and works GREAT when everything is good but chaos when there are issues, especially more than one.

At fact value it looks like water issues, water may have gotten onto the center shift assembly causing issue as well as the central junction box. And while you looked at those items the CJB (central junction box) can have internal corrosion - not sure if you opened it.

Also there is no way the tires are stock and rubbing on stops. Just not possible unless someone really somehow messed up the alignment but even then I dont think there will be rubbing.

 

Having looked into converting my lr3 to coils if I can't get my air suspension fixed, it looks like most of the coil conversion kits flash the EAS modules. It is possible the conversion the previous owner performed didn't use a hardwired/permanently plugged in dongle but was just reflashed via the OBD port. You may need a GAP tool or dealer software to revert things back.

Also, is it possible that the front and rear struts got swapped? Any sort of model numbers on them to help confirm if they are actually supposed to fit an lr3? The MaxSpeedingRods website only shows one option for air struts currently, which are just rear kits for an L405 - nothing showing for lr3/4. If you have a model number, they may be able to confirm fitment

 

Thanks for the replies and for your expertise. I'm going to return the Launch Creader and buy the GAP iiD tool. It is expensive, but it's worth it. I'm just disillusioned by how much everything cost these days. I guess I thought I could get away with a cheaper / generic scanner. I agree I should invest in the right tools and save money, time and effort in the long run. Though it may be a month or two and working a few extra hours of overtime before I can buy it. The time to fix the vehicle and register it since I purchased it has basically expired so I registered it non-operable. I was feeling pressured to get it running quickly, but now I have a whole year to figure it out (hopefully it won't take that long). The previous owner did have it registered with the coil suspension on it, despite the instrument cluster looking like a christmas tree. Here in Colorado you need emission / inspection every two years for a 2005, and I don't think they will fail you for the suspension faults if it has been converted to coils. Something new must have broken since then that I have to figure out. The iiD tool should help a lot.

The truck is solid, 159K, lots of power, drives well (when driving). It appears to have resided in dry climates, no rust. No apparent history of off-roading. No accidents. Properly maintained. For a 20 year old car, its in great shape. I'm super impressed with it and the engineering.

The Maxpeedingrods air struts model numbers are RTD501090 and RNB501250-V2. They're advertised on eBay, Amazon, Aliexpress, etc. They're advertised as fitting the LR3, but your probably right in that they don't. I reached out to them for support and I'm still waiting to hear back. I told them I purchased them 2nd hand and that all I'm looking for is for their support, not to return them. Hopefully they will be honest and tell me if they're correct for the vehicle or not. Its difficult finding the OEM max and compressed lengths for what the struts should be. Maxpeedingrods replied that their front struts are 613mm extended, 486mm compressed, and the rears are 579mm extended, 409mm compressed. Google AI says the fronts should be 548mm extended, 447mm compressed and the rears should be 539mm extended, 367 compressed. Based on this the Maxpeedingrods front struts are 39mm(1.5") longer at their compressed length then what they should be. This doesn't make any sense. The wheels are resting hard up against the fender well in the front so they are definitely not longer then they're supposed to be. Most likely these are shorter. Now the rears calculate to be 42mm(1.65") longer than they should be at their compressed length. This makes more sense since the back is resting way too high when on the bump stops. Here is a picture of the car resting on the bump stops.



Interesting idea wondering if they were swapped. I'm going to investigate this. It would result in this issue. I installed them based on the diameters of air dampeners and their relative lengths (wider / shorter in the back, narrower / longer in the front). If the struts where associated with the wrong air springs it would make the rears wider / longer and the fronts narrower / shorter, but if the rears were compressed all the way and fronts were extended all the way it could result in the correct appearance. Excuse my naivety, but will struts stay compressed when unloaded? I'm used to coiled struts which are always extended due to the spring. This theory would have required whoever (factory / prior owner) to have built / rebuilt them incorrectly (associating the struts with the wrong air springs). I'm not sure if the struts are interchangeable in this way. It looks like I'm going to be taking these things off the truck anyway. I'll find out.

As DakotaTravler said, I have bigger issues than the air suspension. I did find mild corrosion on a few connection of the CJB and cleaned them up. I didn't think it was that bad. I don't think I cracked it open to evaluate the inside though. Ugh, I guess I'll do that again. My hands were pretty tore up after that job. I haven't yet taken the center shift assembly out to evaluate it. Are there electronic in their? I was able to successfully test all the switches and lights in the assembly. The truck had a busted out sunroof from a hail storm that I already replaced from a junked LR3. The prior owner had the truck covered with a tarp, but I cannot be assured water didn't get in. I'll check this out.

I'm so thankful for the suggestions. I got to find the source(s) of all these faults. I just don't know where to look.

 

I am usually a pessimist so take that into account. A good friend of mine works for Land Rover(in service) and also does work on the side.
He won’t install aftermarket struts on a LR. He’s had so many fail right out of the box he won’t even start the job if the customer doesn’t have factory parts or wants him to use/buy anything else. The only lift product I’ve seen him use or talk about for any LR is the height sensor extensions.

Fortunately I haven’t had to play with the suspension on mine yet, so I have no direct experience. From what you’ve said it sounds like you have someone else’s failed project and now you have to not only sort out a failed suspension system but also whatever was done to “repair” it.

Without something like factory diagnostic tools it is not going to be easy. From your posts it sounds like the air system isn’t coming on. That could be computer lock out(or turned off) or a bad compressor. I know, new compressor. Three weeks ago I put two ac compressors on my 07 back to back( pre-broken for my convenience! I was not amused!) Getting new nonfunctional parts is pretty common unfortunately.

If it was me, I’d confirm the collapsed length of both the front and rear struts and make sure they’re the correct parts. Once that’s confirmed or straightened out, throw the springs back under it to get it moving, and take it to a dealer. Pay for a full diagnostic and see what they recommend. This may involve getting friendly with a LR mechanic or Service supervisor, I’m not sure I already did that. The major downside is the diagnostic could cost as much as a Gap tool.

Wish I could be more optimistic. I’m sure it can be sorted out, but it’s going to be a lot of head scratching.
one other thing: you said you replaced the sun roof drain grommets. Was there signs of significant leakage? Look for corrosion or water intrusion the wiring and connectors under the passenger seat.
edit - sorry, I see you already did the wiring/corrosion check. My bad.

 

Height sensor extensions are horrible and can leave one stranded on bump stops.