H Folks,

Seems I have an issue and I think I know the cause, but looking for a second opinion before I change anything.

A couple of weeks ago I started to get an occasional squeak/creaking noise from the rear drivers side when going over bumps. it was noticeable when going slow. Its become progressively worse and now happens when I even get into the vehicle. Sounds very much like an old pick up with leaf springs that squeak when you go over bumps if that helps. I've had a really good look around under the rear, raised and lowered a bunch of times and had someone rock the truck. While its hard to pinpoint exactly, when I place my finger on different points I can most feel vibration that comes from the creaking/squeaking from the bottom of the shock, possible the busing itself, but its not exactly scientific, so i could be wrong

There is no knocking or bumping to suggest a really worn out bushing.

Has anyone ever experienced this sort of thing and is creaking/squeaking just another symptom of a worn bushing, or could it actually be the shock itself that is worn internally or does this sound like a upper and or lower control arm bushing issue.

I have looked around at prices for just bushings and complete control arms and it would seem its more sensible to replace the entire control arm if thats the problem.

Bear in mind I live in Nova Scotia and its winter, so the underside of my truck is a mix of underseal, salt, crud and rust - no getting away from that here, so its impossible to see the condition of the bushing. I have sprayed the bushings several times over the past weeks with a good penetrating oil and lithium grease to see if that helps. I figured that if the shock/busing are worn that's not going to really make it any worse.

I may also take the opportunity, if it is the shock/airbag to service the compressor/dryer as well as while the truck raises and lowers, its starting to become rather slow to change height.

 

Something like this ?

 

that exactly the sound. I guess I could have said it sounds like an old rusty bed spring!!!

So what was the cause - control arm bushings??

I need to get it sorted as while I don't normally mind folks looking at my LR3, its now out of horror for the terrible noise as I drive past

 

Just Narrowed it down, literally yesterday, to a lower knuckle bushing,What I did I have purchased a set of small servings and variety if sharp needles of Amazon. took the wheel off, filled the small 25mm syringe with synthetic lubricating oil, punched a needle through each end of rubber housing ( if you Google a lower knuckle bushing for LR3 you will visualize a little better ) and filled each end with oil until running out. I have started with bottom bushing as it was my first suspect. I re installed the wheel and rocked the back of the LR3 up and down to see if creak is still there and ..it was not! I did not bother with upper bushing as the noise was gone. Now I know which I have to replace without just guessing or spending additional money on something else.
I strongly recommend that you diagnose on your own my case may not be your case, but I have too sprayed every possible bushing back there previously, without success . Giving a health shot of synthetic oil into each rubber end inside worked a treat.
Also I will suggest that you don't wait to long as your rear knuckle may be already out of alignment which was my case, in fact I have been driving with this for far to long, since October 2018, and already saw a air strut bottom dust boot torn due to the half shaft rubbing on it. Good luck !

 

I used to have a full sized Range Rover that made this noise sometimes. Apparently it was caused by the Rear Sway Bar Bushings beginning to go bad. Not Sway Bar Links, but actual Rubber Bushings that attach the Sway Bar to the frame. The plastic timing chain guides went bad before I was able to do a complete diagnosis (because, L322 BMW M62 engine...). Anyway, these Sway Bar Bushings also should be looked at and perhaps swapped out, especially if the back end is torn apart anyway, for other suspension swaps. And from experience, I do know that worn Sway Bar Bushings will cause an annoying knocking sound.

I'm happy that your noises have gone away. I think I'll look into that injection technique.

 

Thanks, this is a great idea and I'll. I'll give it a go, if only to diagnose where the worn bushing is. Then at least I'm not just replacing parts for no reason, but will still change out the part that is at fault as if its started to squeak like this, its failing anyway.

As much as I would like to just replace one bushing, mine look like the original items and the bolts and nuts are really corroded, so I suspect I'll not be able to get just the bushing out. In my case is will be better to replace the entire arm assembly.

Again, many thanks

 

I did my front sway bar bushing on the LR3 cause of a thunk noise. If I recall, driver side is a pain.

Anyway, lubricate the uppers anyway. Even a little oil to rejuvenate. Once they make noise, they are actually shot and will have some play. So best to keep them lubricated before they dry out.

 

Keep in mind that rear control arms don't come with a knuckle bushings. There are two separate service items as upper and lower knuckle hub bushing, so you can replace them separately.

 

Well, I tried but I guess the needle was just too thin and could not really penetrate very far; however, the noise is an indication of failure, so its going to have to be replaced. Just called my nearest local dealer and they came back with a price of $500 for the arm, bushing and bolts - crazy price!

Will call around a few other places. I know RoverParts stock them, but their shipping is insane, usually as much, if not more than the part itself.

 

I used a regular syringe. Helps to have nurses as friends. Then I heat up regular engine oil and inject it to the TOP of the boot. You just need to get past the thin rubber. You dont go in far at all. Then inject the oil/lubricant. When done, clean the boot and reseal with black RTV or such to prevent water entry into the hole you made.

As throrgal mentioned, you can purchase just the rose joints (ball joints) alone if the rest of the arm is good along with the frame bushings. You can press them in/out yourself. Some say its a little tough, others not. Key is to freeze the new ones before install to shrink them a bit.