DIY Frontrunner style roof rack
7 Attachment(s)
It's certainly not a new idea, but I hadn't seen it on a LR so I thought I'd share what I built. I made a frontrunner style rack out of a Harbor Freight ATV ramp. I call it frontrunner style because it's flat with no sides, certainly not as good looking as the real thing. For tools I used a sawz-all, angle grinder with a flap disc, misc hand tools and the neighbor's welder. I started with this ramp: https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-l...amp-60334.html which I had an additional 20% off coupon for. I was able to score some free 1" square steel tubing at work for cross bars, I used about 13'. The last ingredient is hardware. I used fender washers, carriage bolts and acorn nuts to secure it to the roof. Oh, I almost forgot, I bought 1.5" square and 1"x2" plugs off Amazon to fill the ends of the rack and the crossbars.
After unboxing the ramp, I drilled the pop rivets out of the hinges and tailgate tabs to remove them and bolted the 3 ramp sections together. This gave me roughly a 44"x 65" platform which I painted flat black. My brother made a rack like this but used a Yakima system which attached to roof rails on his Sequoia. While it worked perfectly well I was looking for as low profile as possible. I had hoped to use the cross bars directly on the roof tacks, but that left about 3/16" clearance between the bar and the roof glass. I opted to cut a 3" piece of tubing with a 45 degree angle on one end and welded it to the ends of my cross bar to raise it up off the glass. After test fitting the rack with a front and rear cross bar, I found the middle bar spacer had to be 1/8" shorter. I also cut this with a sawz-all, not because it's the right tool, but because it's what I had! I contemplated just using JB Weld to attach the spacers to the cross bars, but ultimately I went to the neighbor's and used his welder. This was the only "fabrication" I had to do. After my bars were welded and painted it was just a matter of layout and drilling holes. I opted to have it sit as far back as I could and clear the tailgate when up. After looking into ladders, this may be too far back. I found the Hi-Lift from a previous vehicle laid perfectly across the back of the rack, so I drilled holes for more carriage bolts to hold it down. I can install a shovel with the tip under the Hi-Lift and strap the handle to the rack, as well as strap an axe to the other side. I was contemplating some more permanent mouth solutions for these, but like the idea of not more hardware sticking up when the accessories are off. As a side note, I had to chuckle at myself for even mounting the Hi-Lift on the rack. Since I still have factory bumpers and no sliders, I can't even use it on my rig. It's just funny how they've become a "must have" when you venture off road. They've got to be top 5 must have items if we were to take a poll, even though they're dangerous as all get out and I doubt most people know how to use them. I see them on all kinds of mall crawler JK's here in UT! Last, it was pretty noisy on the highway and even had a little vibration if the wind was right, so I stole the fairing off my daughters car! Well, actually I traded her a new style yakima fairing for the old one that was attached to MY roof rack on HER car. That made a night and day difference in road noise. It was a pretty fun project and I'm mostly happy with the results. It doesn't look too homemade so that was a big plus for me. |
I like it!
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Originally Posted by 2002tii
(Post 658079)
I like it!
Does your username have to do with a BMW model produced from the mid 60’s to the mid 70’s? I had a base ‘74, but always dreamed of finding a round tail light tii. |
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If his username doesn’t pay homage to the Porsche killer, he gets the award for the most random user name ever. |
Originally Posted by m_lars
(Post 657413)
It's certainly not a new idea, but I hadn't seen it on a LR so I thought I'd share what I built. I made a frontrunner style rack out of a Harbor Freight ATV ramp. I call it frontrunner style because it's flat with no sides, certainly not as good looking as the real thing. For tools I used a sawz-all, angle grinder with a flap disc, misc hand tools and the neighbor's welder. I started with this ramp: https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-l...amp-60334.html which I had an additional 20% off coupon for. I was able to score some free 1" square steel tubing at work for cross bars, I used about 13'. The last ingredient is hardware. I used fender washers, carriage bolts and acorn nuts to secure it to the roof. Oh, I almost forgot, I bought 1.5" square and 1"x2" plugs off Amazon to fill the ends of the rack and the crossbars.
After unboxing the ramp, I drilled the pop rivets out of the hinges and tailgate tabs to remove them and bolted the 3 ramp sections together. This gave me roughly a 44"x 65" platform which I painted flat black. My brother made a rack like this but used a Yakima system which attached to roof rails on his Sequoia. While it worked perfectly well I was looking for as low profile as possible. I had hoped to use the cross bars directly on the roof tacks, but that left about 3/16" clearance between the bar and the roof glass. I opted to cut a 3" piece of tubing with a 45 degree angle on one end and welded it to the ends of my cross bar to raise it up off the glass. After test fitting the rack with a front and rear cross bar, I found the middle bar spacer had to be 1/8" shorter. I also cut this with a sawz-all, not because it's the right tool, but because it's what I had! I contemplated just using JB Weld to attach the spacers to the cross bars, but ultimately I went to the neighbor's and used his welder. This was the only "fabrication" I had to do. After my bars were welded and painted it was just a matter of layout and drilling holes. I opted to have it sit as far back as I could and clear the tailgate when up. After looking into ladders, this may be too far back. I found the Hi-Lift from a previous vehicle laid perfectly across the back of the rack, so I drilled holes for more carriage bolts to hold it down. I can install a shovel with the tip under the Hi-Lift and strap the handle to the rack, as well as strap an axe to the other side. I was contemplating some more permanent mouth solutions for these, but like the idea of not more hardware sticking up when the accessories are off. As a side note, I had to chuckle at myself for even mounting the Hi-Lift on the rack. Since I still have factory bumpers and no sliders, I can't even use it on my rig. It's just funny how they've become a "must have" when you venture off road. They've got to be top 5 must have items if we were to take a poll, even though they're dangerous as all get out and I doubt most people know how to use them. I see them on all kinds of mall crawler JK's here in UT! Last, it was pretty noisy on the highway and even had a little vibration if the wind was right, so I stole the fairing off my daughters car! Well, actually I traded her a new style yakima fairing for the old one that was attached to MY roof rack on HER car. That made a night and day difference in road noise. It was a pretty fun project and I'm mostly happy with the results. It doesn't look too homemade so that was a big plus for me. I know this is an old thread, but that's a great innovative way to add to the LR4. I'm curious though, it seems very close to the sunroof. Does the sunrise still have full functionality? |
Originally Posted by little green giant
(Post 705824)
I know this is an old thread, but that's a great innovative way to add to the LR4. I'm curious though, it seems very close to the sunroof. Does the sunrise still have full functionality?
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Nice! Love the DIY build. How did you go about bolting the cross bars down to the factory roof rails? I’m looking to do a similar DIY build on my LR3 using aluminum extrusions. The roof rack feet are the last component I need to figure out.
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by jmdougs
(Post 773367)
Nice! Love the DIY build. How did you go about bolting the cross bars down to the factory roof rails? I’m looking to do a similar DIY build on my LR3 using aluminum extrusions. The roof rack feet are the last component I need to figure out.
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by m_lars
(Post 773378)
I used steel plate cut down to fit in the factory track. I drilled holes drilled in the center and carriage bolts run up trough the plates and bars. The factory track get pinched between the plates and the bars. It takes a little trial and error to get it right, but my bars bolt down nice and tight.
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