Over the past few days the alarm has been going off when I opened my door. At first I thought I forgot to lock the door.

But I had been locking the doors, just the drivers side door does not lock. The LR3 thinks its locked as the alarm sounds when I open it.

When I push the key or the center console lock button I can see the flipper on the door moving in and out. So its getting power to the mechanism.

We have been going through a huge thaw with tons of snow melting. Wondering if humidity is causing something to stick.

Any suggestions on fixing or debugging this.

Also, all other doors and tailgate lock fine. Its just he drivers door.

 

It's possible that the internal linkage has gotten broken or disconnected. You would need to disassemble the door panels to investigate.

You probably want to look at door lock selenoid as a main possibility.

The have been reports of corroded wires under the door sill (inside car edge of door).

Bad / loose connections in the Central Junction Box plug, but this usually effects all the locks.

 

If the key is left in the ignition with the driver's door open and the master "lock" button is pushed on the dash the doors will lock. then upon closing the driver's door it will automatically unlock, as the computer senses that the key is present in the ignition switch.

What I am trying to get at is perhaps the "Key in" sensor or wiring is faulty and unlocking the door as a result of it falsely believing that the key is in the ignition.

There is a 5amp fuse for it. #40 in the glove box compartment. Although I doubt that the fuse is the problem. Wiring issues are great fun! Good luck

 

Thanks Spider its worth a shot with that fuse.

LR3s must be cheap or something. I've had all kinds of cars over the past 30 years and not one has ever had a drivers lock fail. They all had electric windows and locks. This stuff is not new tech, its been ironed out many years ago.

I've read quit a few posts on others with same issues but never a solution.

 

I suggest you try out the mechanical door lock using your key. Roll the drivers window down however on the off chance that it locks but does not unlock.

Sometimes the linkage gets mixed up internally and then the door will not lock. If the mechanical lock works, the odds are you have a wiring problem - that is power not getting to the lock power whatever for the drivers door. As such, below is a link to the door lock wiring diagrams.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Power Window and Door Lock Circuits

No, Land Rovers are not cheap; they are designed for the rich; as to why normal stuff seems to quit on them, in some cases, the bits breaking down were bleeding edge when LR built it, the NAV being an example.

The locking circuity does more than just lock or unlock the door; the computers self lock it again if unlocked and a door is not opened within a few minutes - that stuff was bleeding edge eight to ten years ago; also LR seems to find the most difficult way of doing simple things, always reinventing the wheel it seems, in our case, 940 kg rated wheels no one else uses - that sort of thing.

Also since the 3 was stuffed full of computers, the boffins figured to be consistent, they would spec Cat5 conductor for many of the systems - too bad they speced indoor wire; add a bit of moisture and a few years and guess what, no conductor.

 

Interesting you brought that up.
My wife has a Honda S2000 and the ignition switch would not acknowledge that the key had been removed and as a result she could not lock her doors.
Honda ended up replacing the ignition switch and then reprogramming all the keys.

 

Cheap?
The '06 HSE we just bought came with the original window sticker:
Vehicle Base Price $52,985.00

Luxury Package
Includes Adaptive Front Lighting System,
Cold Climate Package,
Center Console Cooler Box $ 1,750.00

Satellite Radio $ 400.00

Java Black Paint $ 400.00


Inland Transportation $ 715.00


Total $56,250.00

 

I have what sounds like the same problem with my rear door. I was told it is probably the door latch mechanism.

Mine will partially unlock but not enough to let you out from the inside. I have to pull the lock out the rest of the way to be able to open the door from the inside. However, the outside will open all the time. Even with the doors locked. If it's locked and I open the back door the alarm goes off.

If you unlock the door, can you open it from the inside, or do you have to pull the lock out and then open it? If it unlocks all the way and you can get out then it may not be the latch mechanism.

 

Opening the rear hatch from the inside requires two things:
1) holding the lock and unlock master buttons on the dash at the same time until the hatch pops
2) **outward pressure** on the hatch

So you either need two people, or some way to reach the hatch and the dash at the same time...

WAIT! I understand what you mean now, a rear passenger door.

Have you checked the child lock?

 

Yep, I checked the child lock first . I wish it was that easy lol.