After chasing EAS issues and planning on a cross country trip next year including MOAB I decdied to fitted coils to my 2006 HSE with 132k miles on the clock.

Started off with the rears and no major issues there. I did remove the rear tie bar. Both sides took approx 35 minutes each to get the air bags off and fit the new coils
Used 18mm socket for the tie bar
24mm deep socket and 21mm wrench (spanner)
21mm deep socket (you don't need deep reach I just had one)
15mm ratchet (spanner)
Wire cutters
Remove the rear tie bar and let it hang, with the 18mm socket
Remove the the 24mm nut from the bottom of the air bag and keep the pin in place.
Remove the rear nut from top of the strut assembly. Next loosen the other front nuts so they have about one or two turns left on the thread. Using 15mm ratchet wrench
At this point I used the wire cutters and cut the air line. Be careful as high pressure air come out
Remove the bottom bolt using the 21mm socket. As you do this lift the bottom of the spring to ease the bolt out
Remove the top two 15mm nuts. The weight of the air bag is being carried by these which is why I removed the rear one first and the two floors ones are easier to get at. Remove the nuts and the air bag drops out
Fitting is the reverse apart from I put a new 15mm nut in the top first to hold the spring in place and then got the bottom bolt in. Once the bottom bolt is in then put the new nuts on and tighten them. As you do you the spring raises into the top mount. Once the top nuts are tight then put the bottom nut on the bolt and tighten and then the tie rod back on.
The front is essentially the same. Atlantic British says to remove the caliper but I found with a deep socket I did not need to. I did not remove the inner liners either. Although tight there is enough room to get the ratchet wrench in there. I used a short socket and ratchet to get the rear started and then used the ratchet wrench to finish it off. There is not a lot of room to work with but was better than pulling the liner and breaking liner clips
The fronts were a nightmare to get in place. The drivers side front was not lined up in the bottom and it took me over an hour to get in place with some long bars. A bottle jack and dead blow hammer. Leavering the strut in there to get the bolt in place. The passenger side was a little easier since I got the trick of doing it from the other side. The fronts took the most time.
By this time I was to tired to hard wire the "device" that came with the kit but instead just flashed it and have the red light on the dash. I will get round to hard wiring it in place.

Test drive and over all apperence.

The car sits about the same height as it did before. I did not take measurements. I use to have 2" Rhino Johnson rods on. The drive is better than what I thought. Driving on roads with pot holes and repairs I did not notice any real difference. Certainly not jaring or lurching. Highway speed again no difference. I don't tend to take corners fast any way, I have a sports car to do that so cornering feels the same.
When I go off roading then I will write another review.

 

Am I right in thinking that once you have done this conversion, you could remove the compressor? Or does that open up another can of electronic worms!

 

Once you have done the conversion then the compressor is no longer used and you can either leave it in place or remove it as you wish. The flash device that comes with the conversion also means that you can use all Terrain Response settings as well.

 

That looks real good. Nice work!

 

I agree it looks good. I'm anxious to see/hear your off-roading review of it. The EAS is a big pain in the rear and is a potential for issues, but it's also one of the brilliant parts of the LR3, especially the cross-linking. When you go wheelin' try to see if there is an appreciable loss of flex or articulation, and also whether the TR seems to actually be working, or if the kit just by-passes it altogether and eliminates the warnings.

 

I have been off roading in many versions of Land Rovers from Series one's to the current Range Rover Sport and the cross linking is meant to be a like a solid axle so will be looking to see what it will be like. The reason for doing the conversion was not about the extreme off road capability of the car but more for relability issues and not blowing an air bag or having a compressor fail.

When off roading with terrain response then I would just place the car in sand mode and life the suspension to off road height. That way you did not get the rev bounce in some of the other settings.

 

Yeah I understand...that's why I wrote what I did about the cross-linking. I suppose in most off-roading scenarios it won't matter that much, only when you need the flex. I don't find Sand Mode as useful as say, Mud 'n Ruts. To me that's the most versatile setting. Rock Crawl I only use when I'm actually on large rocks. Same with Sand.