I wonder how easy or difficult this is.

I've got an intermittent code P0026 for the VVT not working correctly on one bank. I looked in the "service" manual pdf that's been floating around and under VVT it says to remove and refit the timing components. Then when I went to the timing component section, it listed all kinds of special tools... so I just gave up thinking about it, and I figured I'd pay someone to do it... maybe.

Now that this thread has started, I read a little further, and it SEEMS to maybe indicate that you can just remove the 3 bolts holding the vvt to the cam or cam sprocket or whatever. If I don't have remove the chain or using the special tools to hold everything in place, I might be tempted to try replacing the VVT stuff. Especially if I can maybe get a used one from an engine that's no good.

 

This was a SSM, Special Service Message, and to my knowledge was never made into a TSB. SSM are more so to aid in diagnostics, not really as a repair guideline, they also are deleted on a regular basis from the server. Basically, even though this may be the cause of the noise, the repair may not really be 'in effect'.

Jafir, the VVT unit is what the chain goes onto, so there is more to it then that. It isn't an overly difficult repair, however the special tools are important, and even with them used properly by techs that have done this, or similar repairs a few times before, I have seen timing set a tooth off before, not enough to cause damage, just a fault.

 

Awesome. Thanks for the info. I'll probably leave it to the pros then. I'm assuming the special tools aren't cheap.

 

They never are...

I think I recommended this to you before, but have you tried an oil flush?

Your fault usually isn't the unit itself, but rather available oil pressure to it. I have seen this be from partially clogged passages, and even failed seals on the bracket that attaches to the unit.

That bracket is not easily accessibly, but no special tools are needed to pull it, just removal of the front cover and everything attached to it.

 

Thanks again, my service adviser, whom admitted yesterday he wont even change his own flat, let alone know how, thinks there leaning towards a bad pulley, which this is the same guy that accepted that an oil change fixed this the first time.

Needless to say I forwarded him the PDF, and he said he will get it to the shop foreman.

 

Yeah, I remember that, but I won't lie I'm a little hesitant to try an oil flush, just because I've heard horror stories about it making other problems. I'll probably break down an give it a try. Recent symptoms are really pointing to the oil issue, in my opinion. The code was pretty consistent all winter long.... and now that it's starting to get warm, the light has been off this week.

 

My service adviser just called. He said its a bad VVT unit.

Now to figure my options seeing as I would have never bought the truck if I had been given the chance to have an overnight test drive like I requested and was denied.

 

my LR3 makes the same sound. I also narrowed it down to the lifter or the VVT but couldn't get any farther then that. I could really tell after an oil change with after start up, the sound lasted longer then just a regular cold start. I first noticed the sound around 85k and am now at 106k miles. It has made two cross country trips with the sound and various climates. I be honest, I am not sure how severe it really is. I frequently do oil changes and lucas, still the same sound. Haven't tried an engine flush but I doubt there will be any change. After it is a LR.

Here is the clip I posted on youtube:

Let me know how yours turns out

 

My VVT is fukked as well. When you grab the solenoid harness you can feel the rattle, not just on start-up, but continuously. This is a mechanical failure and has NOTHING to due with oil changes. They can stop working properly due to dirty oil, yes. But this rattling is because of a poorly designed VVT unit. I get the code P0028 which is bank 2 (left side), if your bank 1 is going you'll get P0026 like Jafir is getting. The valve covers, and timing cover, which is essentially the entire front of your engine, needs to come off. Brutally simple and expensive job. You need the tools, but if your going to pay all the money to open up the front of the engine, change all your tensioners, guides, and chains for the extra 700 bucks, ESPECIALLY if your engine has over 120,000 miles. Do that and it will last another 100,000 miles. Good luck!

Let's keep each other ahead of dishonest mechanics, please post how much you guys have paid or been quoted for this job!!

Lex

Lex Steele / 2006 LR3 HSE / 4.4 V8 / HD Package / 125,000 Miles

 

How common is this, been seeing quite a few for sale that state engine noise or knocking engine