And not to mention the part is a known failure point, so getting the part from Rover would be a bad idea. They have not updated it last I checked.

 

Rover is still selling the plastic T.

I did the brass fitting route on both of my trucks. Been rocking right along for 50k miles at least on both trucks. That might even be my picture lol. I did add thread sealant before installing

 

I think Metal instead ~ almost doesnt matter how much a new bleeder costs to me because the potential consequences of the OEM breaking unexpectedly are much higher. I know how inexpensive the plastic OEM bleeder is (and that some say the bleeder part may not be necessarily important), but I dont want a plastic one. This seems like the tiniest part in the whole vehicle ~ but like ignition coils, brake switches .... these are very simple things to address changing / having spares for security.

 

yep-mine could have broken on the highway just as easily as the driveway. Amazing how a dollars worth of plastic is holding your entire engine hostage.

 

Haha, mine went half way up a mountain road in New Hampshire and dumped nearly all of its coolant

Had to hitch a ride into town to get jugs of coolant. There was just enough of 1 of the connectors left to rig it into a straight pipe. Wrapped it in at least 10 layers of electrical tape, filled the coolant then had to burp it at least 5x. Still didn't get all the air out and it shot up to the red after 5 min. 1 last burp then was what it needed but that was a long 3 HR drive home at 60 and eagle eyeing the temp gauge

 

(((( Mistake - I replied here to the wrong message)))

Was that your thread? The person gave sizes to go buy etc. Whoever that was, I copied but ended up buying the $70+ dollar Falcon part. I called them after being frustrated with their website. They had 2 left (none of the less expensive ones) and I bought one of them. I made two of those 4 part brass fittings and put Loctite Red High Temperature thread locker on. I just didnt trust that I did it right and didnt want to risk seepage or unthreading. LOL. So now I guess I have 2 spares. I have 2 LR3s, anyway ~

 

I did a thread probably 4 years ago about it listed the bits you need etc. Sorry thought you said you pulled the pic from the thread and it's been awhile lol. My LR3 is going strong no leaks no coming apart you should be solid with that thread locker on it.

I somehow now have 3 LR3's so I understand....

 

You're the one I was trying to reply to ~ nope that's my pic above. I'm female. Maybe u thought it was your pic because u have small feminine hands? (*lol) But.... I think maybe you're the one I copied. (I saw a post that provided the pieces to buy) << If that was you, thanks!! But I went with Falcon anyway. I thought going threadless was less to worry about (didnt trust threadlock for leaks seepage etc).

 

Thanks, ArmyRover !! I may Almost have 3 soon, as I'm checking out a D2.

 

Good news no plastic T on the D2, but be sure to keep an eye on the front driveshaft and coolant temps