Tks Dakota. The measurement are from a tape, before and after calibration just to check. I haven’t even looked at the measurements on the GAP other than during the calibration.

 

Okay. Good. You may have to just keep trying if you want it spot on. But 7mm is not a whole lot. Also I tend to use tape and put a mark on it and measure from those indicators cause if you are even a little sloppy with the tape measure it can throw you off. And also keep in mind that any damage to the plastic fenders could throw things off. Or if you have a driveway that is not totally flat. Doing this on concrete is often best versus asphalt. I know my driveway looks flat when I park on it my rear passenger wheel has a much bigger gap than the rest cause of a small dip in the surface.

So I would say you are pretty dang close and could probably leave things were they are. A few millimeter is not critical.

 

Thank you!

 

I reluctant to comment because I cannot find the source right now and hate to not be able to support my advice.
However I do recall reading that when in normal tolerance (versus tight tolerance for setting the alignment) the accuracy is +/- 10mm. so you are in the tolerance limits at 7mm.

I agree with DakotaTravler that it seems close enough.
If there are no faults, drive it a few days and see how it reacts, them check the measurements again.

Jeff

 

So I drove today and then checked. Things were all over the place again. I’ve calibrated 4 times this evening. The rears are right on every time. But the front drivers side is consistently 10 plus mm higher the passenger side. Finally I set the drivers side to 466 mm and found that the passenger side was low. I raised the passenger side and then rechecked the drivers side. The drivers side had increased along with the passenger side. So that seems to be my problem. Any thoughts on why this might be happening?is it time to contact the guys at GAP? By the way, before I started this process I remember the passenger side being around 7 mm lower than the other side. So maybe it’s not new.

 

There is a tolerance window. The vehicle is not suppose to ride at an exact height, that is not practical. It would be adjusting all the time. You can use the gap tool to set tight tolerance, this will greatly reduce that window and after driving a just a little to sort shake it out, take measurements again. FYI, during calibration it does actually enter tight tolerance mode. But if you are concerned and things do keep shifting then you need a new place to calibrate. Large parking lot that may be super flat. Keep in mind that physics is at play. You can not calibrate one corner without another corner being impacted - it is impossible. Example, if you lower the front left A LOT the rear right will go up. But of course if you lower one front strut, the other will drop a little too in order to make up for the extra weight being carried by it. You also have to take into account any vehicle damages? If it has even been in an accident the overall frame may not even be straight, could have a twist.

 

Good points as usual. I just raised and lowered and now it’s different by more like 15mm. I’ll drive tomorrow and check again. If 10 mm or more off, I’ll try to find a parking lot or something.

I just hope the difference from one side to the other isn’t enough to be dangerous.

 

Play around in live values and see if any sensor is reading all over the place. That could maybe be an issue? Damaged wire or such causing more resistance that it should or bad connection. Usually you get a code tho. But worth looking at.

 

Tks. I am getting various codes like the ones indicated earlier in the string. But I don’t think any of them would be causing this issue.

 

Here is a screenshot of the live voltage values. The left front is higher than the rest. But nothing is jumping around.