Sooo wifey and I like to go to the drive in. Yes there are still a few left! The days of the speaker on your window are long gone and the only way to hear the movie these days is through your stereo. The problem is my LR3 goes into Low Power Audio and wont let me turn up the volume.

Is there any way to override this feature? Id rather listen to the movie super loud and need a jump at the end of the night then not hear the movie.

Any suggestions?

 

You might find the procedure below works - that is you can change the low voltage shutdown from what it is to something lower.

In my case the default seemed to be a 135 number that I presumed inferrred something, pehaps near 13.5 VDC; I reduced the number to 118, inferring 11.8VDC. It seemed to work for me; might for you.

To access the diagnostics pages on the radio head, the procedure is as follows:

1. Ignition must be in position II or better yet, have the engine running and be in Park.

2. Turn radio off if it's already switched on.

3. Turn radio on by pushing the left **** and, within a few seconds of turning it on.

4. Push and hold the right **** in for about 10 seconds (or until the display changes).

5. You should then see the Serial Number and some other stuff displayed.

6. Push and hold the right **** in again for another ten seconds or so and the display should change again.

7. Turn the right **** to scroll through the pages of data, some of it code that does not make much sense, at least to me.

8. Eventually, you will reach the page that shows you the voltage and FBH, (Diesel Fuel Burning Heater), temperature, a UK option, not on NA spec vehicles.

9. The 1VOLT number may show as about 135; the right side volt number is the approximate vehicle voltage, 14.1 in my jpg as the engine is running and 15.3 in the You Tube video.

10.Hold the number 1 keypad button down and the 135 number will slowly decrease.

11.I held the #1 button until the number dropped to 118.

12.The 118 number seems to be good enough that the radio seems to not do the Low Power Shutdown thing for me.


The link below should show the appropriate page on the radio head.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - NAV Radio BlueTooth phone and Rosen DVD/0000 LR Bluetooth dealer Kit install instructions


This is a link to a video re accessing the diagnostic pages.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hfA...ature=youtu.be

Let us know how it works out if you try the above.

 

....sure sounds like a dumb idea considering how much the LR3 likes power.

 

I forgot to mention that installing the second battery might be a good idea as well.

While dumb may be a bit strong, perhaps daring or leading edge may be more appropriate.

Running the one and only battery down until it will not start the engine is not a good idea on the newer Ford, Chev, and Dodge pickups, let alone an LR3. These new vehicles do not take well to dead batteries and even less well to jump starting - that can be costly what with all the on board computers and displays.

The LR3 was the first of the new design electrical systems and hence does not have the safeguards that may? be present in the LR4 or the newer pickups.

This is I suppose the best explanation as to why I installed the second battery per the link below.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Traxide Dual Battery install in LHDrive

 

I never noticed this on my 2006 SE. perhaps someone already made this change? Or does it take a while before the power saving mode kicks in? If not, maybe he just needs to fully charge his battery, which sometimes the alternator won't do.

 

On my 2005 LR3, it used to take about ten minutes of listening to the radio with the engine off before the low power shut down would happen. I used to get a low power warning on the radio display and then later, the warning showed on the NAV screen. I think this was when I changed the NAV software to accommodate the NAV on the Move function.

I think the shutdown time varies from vehicle to vehicle and obviously the state of the battery, which as you say, is never fully charged.

As such, at least twice a year, I put my CTEK on both my batteries for about a week each at nights to get the batteries back up.

Re your 2006, you could call up the diagnostics page and see what number the 1VOLT shows. If the number is 119 or less, I think it has been changed from factory, where as numbers like 130 are more common factory settings.

 

I also think it depends on your radio settings....try cranking it up above 20 units. That's when I'd see it kick in...back when I was young and dumb.

Bruce, your comments crack me up, man!

 

I sold my SE, and my HSE is far away getting an engine installed. I'll have to wait to play.

 

Thank you Bbyer! Once again I am in awe of your Land Rover knowledge.

 

Let us know if my suggested radio head voltage modifications seem to work. On the off chance that it does the job, running the battery down to the point the engine will not start is not good for your wallet.

It seems the 3's computers, even though they run on 5 volts DC, do not much like the battery being under twelve volts. I guess they do not have very good voltage translators/internal power supplies - at least that is the best explanation I have.

If a second battery is not immediately practical, consider plugging one of those bigger jump starter battery packs into the cigarette lighter and back feeding the system to augment the main battery.

I do something like that on my little airplane when on the ground with the engine off and playing with the radios. Light aircraft have a battery about the size of a loaf of bread in them so it does not take much to run them low. My avionics fan tends to draw a fair number of amps itself and then with maybe a NAVCOM and the GPS on, you can literally watch the battery volts dropping.

The jump starter battery helps out and then I do not have to tug on the finger chopper thing at the front to attempt a start. In this case, there is no technology - no computers to kill, just me.