I have seen this numerous times as I have been reading up on it to fix my own problem. Basically, sometimes my 2007 LR3 SE will not turn over, meaning it won't even try. As I turn the key, all the warning lights come on and system faults show up one by one. At other times, the LR3 will be running or even driving and I will usually get one of two Faults and blinking lights first; Tire Pressure Monitoring System Fault, or Parking Brake Fault. This is followed by Transmission Fault, HDC Fault, etc. until finally the stereo reads Vehicle System Shutting Down, followed by the AC turning off, the nav shutting off and then finally the stereo. The hazards start flashing, but not on the dash (just outside) and my interior lights will all come on (I can shut them off by hitting the switch). Car remains running and drive-able. And I do not lose any air in suspension like I have read others may.

So, what have I done so far. I found two marker lights out in driver side headlight, which I replaced and it didn't fix the issue. I also replaced the Brake Light Switch which I purchased from Lucky8. I found my positive connection on the battery loose, which I fixed. Battery is only a few months old and tests perfectly as does the Alternator which is a year old.

I have to look in the door sills still for corroded wires, but I can't feel or smell any dampness.

First time this happened I was able to restart and drive home (about 30 minute drive). Then it started taking tens of minutes to get started, so I kept it in the garage for 2 weeks (after I replaced Brake Light Switch). Then it started right up and was back to being new for about 2.5 weeks, and now it is doing it all over again.

I am trying to think back to when this all started and the only thing I can think of was getting new tires around the time this started. The second time this happened (now) I noticed it was raining.

So, where do I go from here?
1. Check door sills for corroded wires
2. Check behind battery for corroded wires?
3. Some people said it was the instrument cluster, is there a way of checking without spending the money on a new one?

Again, this is a 2007 LR3 SE V8 with Winter Package & NAV. It is a daily driver, so no abuse.

The only repairs I have had done are:
1. Replaced Air Suspension Compressor with OEM and updated relay from Lucky8
2. Alternator (less than year old)
3. Battery (Less than year old)
4. tie rods
5. Rear hatch latch.

Any help for someone who can learn easily, but is not necessarily mechanic level. Thanks

 

Also note that I have decided a couple times to leave the key turned on as the warning lights and fault messages kept coming on to see what happens. Eventually all the lights went off except the PARK light which stayed on a solid red. The other time I have done this the amber BRAKE light stayed on. Is my truck telling me where to look for the electrical issue?

 

So I have tried the hard reset twice. Got nothing. Checked for bad wires and still nothing. Now, I heard a clicking sound with what also sounds like arching coming from the ECU behind the battery. There is no water debris around it or in the connections. Is this a common sound, or do I possibly have something shorting inside the ECU unit?

 

I hate to say it but I think you should go to the dealer. That is unlike anything I've read on any message board throughout 11 years of LR3 ownership.

 

Seen problems with the transfer case control unit bringing the whole car down. It's located behind the battery under a black trim piece just below the Engine Control Unit. Two Connectors on top of the unit, I remember one is yellow. This unit is hard wired to the CAN bus and will cause a dash XMAS tree when put on the naughty list. Look for any sign of water or corrosion.

Water likes to enter at the lower windshield cowl, especially if they are warped or not set flush and tight to the glass. Water will get in at cabin filter air intake hole. Look behind the glove box by the interior fuse box for signs of water. The passenger floor carpet will be wet as well.

When you say the alternator is good, does this mean you have put a multimeter at the battery and tested charging voltage?

 

This is good advice and can very well cause exactly what you are running into. That control unit is perfectly placed to catch water running behind the cowl. Check yours to see if you have any warping. If you do - follow that advice and move on to check the unit for corrosion by removing the connectors on the top.

If this turns out to the issue, it would have to have been raining a couple of days prior to the no start. See if you can remember what the conditions were.

If you do have a warped cowl, fix it.

 

My 06 when new had issues with the battery wiring harness, for some reason it ended up getting replaced because of voltage issues and several faults. This was before I bought it but the PO stated that once dealer swapped in a new harness it never had an issue again.

That and do check for water around T-case module/fuse box

 

Yes, I checked the battery with a multimeter.

I have vigorously checked for kinked and corroded wires in engine, behind glove box and on both front door sills. I cannot find any signs of moisture although this did start for a second time after some rain. I even replaced bulbs and the brake light switch.

I recently pulled the transfer case control unit. It looks brand new. I even opened it up to look for burnt marks on the circuit board. Nothing. I plan on pulling the ECM behind it out today and doing the same.

When trying to start it I get a clicking noise following by a spark/ arching noise from the area of the transfer case control and ECM.

Alternator and battery are both less than a year old. I am losing my mind over this

And all the connectors look great. Really everything looks pretty dry, not even a single dried water mark.

 

Did you check the starter?


Would a starter fault a code?

 

Any luck with this?