How come you ended up with a plate and screws inside a fridge , on the wall ?

That's where rover puts the cooler motor, check the pic of the fridge out you will see the cooler mounted to the front


Cut the hole in dash and mounted the factory off road light switch

Swapped the exhaust, 05 had damaged tail pipes

Pulled the battery to access the transfer case module that normally corrodes and goes bad, mine was not corroded inside so slathered dielectric grease in the plugs

Also unplugged everything else in there and greased the connections to prevent future corrosion problems

ok so we have been having an intermittant issue with all the dash lights coming on, suspension and transmission disabled, also lose speedo when this happens

happened 2 times in 2 weeks, if it sits overnight seems to clear itself

rover tech finily looked at it ( but there was no problem at the time unfortunatly)

he believes guessing from the codes that there is an issue with the abs module or the traction selector on the console, we need to wait for it to act up again so he can do further diagnosis whith the problem present

awsome to drive a rolling computer lol

Got the new headlight guards put on from eBay, they are plastic , say britpart on box, mount stock, they fit fine , had to mod the plastic inserts they would not fit in the stock holes in the rad support but no biggie

Will do a pic later

Swapped in the heated second row seats, plug and play

You have to run the seat plug under the carpet, it is tucked up under the side plastic by the wheel arch , I did have to cut the carpet for the seats I was adding as they mounted different, but the holes were in the floor just covered

Sorry no how to pics, it is easy

Just wanted to say thanks for the posts and the pics. This is great stuff. You have more tools and skills than I do. ;)

Lr3 seems much harder for info in some aspects, guess its still to new and expensive for most DIY guys, I will be buying a scanner soon, think I am at that point

Well think I figured out a few things, I swapped in the climate control with seat heater buttons, now seat heaters work? The seats have the heaters in them pre wired? Wtf

Also seems I have heated windscreen just needed the button? Wtf?

This is like stupid, stuff is there you had to buy the buttons??

Btw rear a/c is all pre wired I could add it but don't want to

Also the wires are in the ceiling for the auto dim rear view mirror, I could add it but the button on the glass is wrong and in the wrong spot

I have a feeling the auto headlight switch would also work, I threw it in and it lights the green fog light icon cause again pre wired lol. Was not dark enough to have them come on, guess that's how it works

Hey Tom - Did I hear (read) correctly, the front seats are pre-wire and have the seat warmers already in them? I have an 06 and I asked the question about adding warmers and no one knew. So if I understand you correctly, I can just add the climate control that has the seat warmer buttons? No computers to update?

best I can tell its there turned it on this morning, wife said her but was warming up so...

Tom - Is the plug for the seat warmers buried deep inside the dash? I removed the heater control and the radio, but did not see a plug that I could use. What else do I need to remove to locate the plug? Thanks for your help.

I believe it is one of the existing plugs, there will be a spare hole in the new climate control, maybe for rear a/c?

How hot should front seats get? Mine only get a little warm and in one spot on each :confused:

Yes the current controller has three holes, the new one has four. however, there is no extra plugs that I can find and I have rear air. Mine is an SE. Guess I should have looked before I purchased the controller. Oh Well... Such is life...

Plug it in see what happen

Tom - took your advice, plugged it in and the lights came on, seats did not appear to get warm. Stop by local garage and had them to check to see if the seat warmers was turned on in the body control module and if not turn it on. They stated that they never did that before, but they did find codes that the left and right seat temperature sensor inoperable. BlackBox Nanocom Evolution is suppose to be able to do what I ask them to do - Just trying to justify spending $500 for one. And I agree that all seats come with warmers installed. When buying a used seat - the only option is cloth or leather, memory or no memory. (Didn't know any came with cloth seats)

I also was not aware they came with cloth

Mine do not get hot like the d1 just enough to take the chill off the leather but at the front stitch seam which seems weird, might have to ask my dealer tech about running his computer on it

I know the rover knows I added the rear airbags

The only differences I see on the se drivers seat and the hse drivers seat , use has 3 memory? And a additional power movement on the seat bottom

I would just swap the front seats but I would need to change the leather covers as the use ones are not nice

Finally got the factory off road light harness removed from my 06 and installed in the 05, hardest part was removing the wire from the green connector under the pass side dash, button on dash illuminates, push it with headlights on and the indicator lights so guess they work, 10*f here so not pulling the cloth covers to check, guessing they would rip


In spring definitely pulling the bumper to add the driving/fog lights since they are plug play and I already swapped the needed headlight switch

Unseenone sent me the directions huge thanks, could not have done without them

Got the dealer off road light harness installed with dash button

Finily got the upper hatch swapped, the coax up under the brake light I can't access, I just tugged a few times and it unplugged, I can't plug it in but so far see no I'll affects

In normal (light) clothes, they should get noticeably HOT. To the point of minor discomfort.

Did, thermostat pic shows bad rubber seal on still assembled unit

Attachment 36142

Here it is disassembled , found cheapest on amazon, reused boring seal for housing

Attachment 36143

this is a real LR3 primer
 

I appreciate the effort you are making recording and posting all the work you are doing - it is a major effort - nothing is simple or easy.

The thermostat housing is known for cracking, I'm on my third. It is recommended to replace it with the entire crossover assembly, as they split as well. It comes complete, with the thermostat.

Keep up the great work!

I have an 05 with the same brush guard and lights. I took off the covers, started the engine, turned on the lights, and hit the light 2 button and noticed that they do not turn on. I haven't investigated yet. Could it be that they were put on for show? That would suck, but then, why does the light 2 button light up?

I believe if they were wired correctly, then they should only come on if you have the button depressed and turn your high beams on.

Installed a set of britpart waterproof front seat covers from lucky 8, fit pretty good, a little loose for my taste but should make the wife happy since she hates leather seats, they are a decent weight canvas and just Velcro on

Attachment 36023

NAV THREAD https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...stalled-73007/

I believe that they should work ONLY if the high beams are on, despite the light. I couldn't figure out how the circuit worked exactly with a multimeter, but that is how they worked. The light lights up to alert you they are enabled.

Actually they work ONLY when the high beams are on.

link re hookup of driving lights
 

This is the best explanation of the hookup of the driving lights that I have found. The wiring diagrams a few posts down are excellent.

Overland Journal Project Land Rover Discovery 4 (LR4) - Page 5 - Expedition Portal

Yes, the driving lights should be wired so that they only come on when the high beams are also on.

That wiring diagram provided by bbyer is a great one and it's what I used when hooking my switch up. I did have a difficult time understanding it at first until I realized that the LR light switch actually switches the ground, not the hot wire. Basically, when you depress the button, it connects pins 1 and 4 together to energize the relay. If I remember correctly, pin 5 is simply to provide power to light up the top indicator on the switch when it's depressed and pins 2 and 3 provide dimming and illuminating of the little light "drawing" on the switch itself.

However, if you wire your switch like this diagram, the switch (and your lights) will be operational any time the button is depressed while your ignition is on. If you would rather hook them up so that the lights can only be operated in conjunction with the high beams, then you need to find the appropriate high beam signaling wire in the bundle coming from the light stalk on the steering wheel column and either:
1. If it's a neutral wire, splice into it and run it into pin 1 of the switch instead of simply grounding pin 1 to the car chassis.
OR 2. If it's a hot wire, splice into it and run it to pin 85 of the relay instead of taking power from the lighter socket.

I honestly can't remember which the high beam wire is... positive or negative, but the LR wiring diagrams should tell you that in the RAVE manual.

The other dilemma I dealt with was wondering whether I wanted the lights to come on only when I turned my high beams on, or if I also wanted them to come on when I flashed my high beams. Ultimately, I decided that I didn't care about the flashing aspect. However, if you want them to come on in both situations, then I think you need to solder some diodes into your circuit.

I should re-wire mine this way! I almost NEVER use them because I rarely use my high beams....

Yesterday swapped rear diff from the 06, one in 05 has been humming loud and we had confirmed on a lift it was bad

Here is the tag on donor rear sorry no locker, drained and filled with royal purple, gear oil
In it was clean, there was metal on the drain plug magnet but it is quiet and does not leak

Attachment 35405

Today I pulled bumpers, cut the holes in the 05 bumper and added the driving lights and headlight washers all was plug and lay lights work

I had to drill the holes in the 05 washer bottle to add the second pump and low washer indicator(06 had cracked bottle). Bottles are same just no holes

The low wash works , I am sure the headlight spray works if I can figure out how it operates lol

Attachment 35404

Hi Tom;

When you operate the windshield sprayer, the headlights get it as well, that is the only way.. It should be noticed as a bit of mist over the hood/headlight area.

Headlights on or? Iirc my d1 needs low beam or city lights on ?

No it does not matter, there are no electronic integration into the plumbing except the low fluid. There is a "T" in the piping out of the bottom of the reservoir The rubber tubes head off in two directions, one to the bumper, the hose actually is clipped on to the bumper, and one to the hood nozzles.

the lr3 has a seperate pump for bumper spray, that goes to a t on the bumper, something could be clogged like the t or nozzles from non use


On my d1 had to blow all out and run the mfu check a few times to get it working

Headlight spray washers operate every FIFTH press on the stalk, smeaning every fifth windshield spray , bumper nozzles would operate as well.

Got the gas tanks swapped , no more engine shutting off at half tank, the replacement was dated June 07
And I was able to start the rover with 2 gallons in tank after install

Btw this is the easiest tank I have ever done

Like 4 hours to r&r both tanks with no lift and included drainind both tanks on ground

I noticed the thread was closed on the tank swap.. Question, is the line of grease/oil on the tank slung off the drive shaft, does it have a matching line on the other side near the first U-joint/ish, if so, add one of those to the list...