You guys rock! Thanks for all the advice.

 

I am not certain as to why the key colour was changed but it must have been for a good reason. LR, nor any other manufacturer would rarely admit to a product concern but instead claim some new benefit of the upgrade and recommend it be installed.

I think the new orange key cannot be removed until the pin is fully inserted up into the bumper - that may not be so with the black key.

Hence, reading between the lines, yes, replacing the black key lock with the orange is probably prudent.

People talk about knocking the receiver out with a hammer. This is impossible if the pin is fully up in the bumper. What I would do however is after withdrawing the key, I would be taking a rubber hammer and giving the receiver a few good knocks just to prove to myself it does not easily fall out.

That and I think the safety chains should be tied to the towing loop beside the electrical receptacle.

 

Well, one problem solved. I thought I needed the key for the hitch in order to install it. The **** only retracts the bolt so far. I realized that if you pull the **** out also it works.

So, since one question is answered let me pose another. For the record, forgive my newbie questions. I have read the manual and searched online and cant find the answer to this one: My parking sensor indicator on the dash flashes and is not steady on. Is this normal or is a flashing light a fault indicator?

 

RE: trailer hitch locked vs unlocked

I thought I should clarify;

I had to remove the compact spare tire in order to swing a 6 lb hammer hard enough to hit the retractable locking pin while using channel lock pliers to turn the locking mechanism. It was a tough go!

The green **** has to be pulled out and turned for the pin to disengage, but with no key I had to break the lock and it seemed like the hitch was there for a long time (it was quite stubbornly rusted in).

RE: Trailer safety chain attachment

As for where to hook up trailering safety chains, there are two loops in the drop bracket, one on either side of where the hitch slides vertically into position. Atlantic British makes a bolt on trailer hitch that uses these loops as bolt holes and provides another set of loops for the chains. It is an affordable, semi-permanent hitch replacement seen here:
(See time stamp 1:30 for clear location of said chain loops where bolts install)

 

Thanks for the explanation re your efforts and the procedure to get the receiver out; I am much happier now.

It is just that I have read of guys who just took a hammer to the visible part and it drops down and out. That would mean the pin was never inserted into the hole and that the receiver was just rusted in.

The inference was that to reinstall, they assumed one did not have to do anything other than just hammer the receiver back up into the rust and walk away. Instead, you have now answered the question of how to get a frozen receiver out when it was locked in correctly and then left there for a few years to rust up; also why it is a good idea to remove the receiver when it is not in use.

Incidentally, the reason LR designed it as removable was to avoid restricting ground clearance at the rear - that is creating a hang up catch point when the 3 is out mountain climbing. That is hence the only problem I have with the AB arrangement - but it still does come off with not much effort.

Curt makes what I would call a conventional bolt on trailer hitch but it does cost you rear ground clearance and is there for the duration.

As to the safety chain hookup, those little holes always have looked a bit weak to me. On the other hand, the towing loop above would not be out of place on a Kenworth.

I was looking at some Reese branded safety chains in Canadian Tire yesterday and they included a threaded loop of "chain" to I gather fasten the chain to the vehicle. To me, the loop may as well have been an elastic band. I consoled myself knowing where the failure point would be anyway - well perhaps they were safety chains for one of those baby carriers you tow behind your bicycle.

The link below is to some files I gathered up re trailer hitches and wiring. The Curt hitch details are in one of the files.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - NAS Trailer Socket Pin ID and Wire Colours

 

With my hitch successfully installed now, I am towing for the first time this weekend. If anyone sees a red Porsche on a trailer sliding down I-95 its mine and the hitch didnt work.

 

If it will tow my Defender, it will tow your Porsche.

 

Hopefully on your return, we do not hear of a 3 on a trailer being pulled by a red Porsche. Actually I bet your rig looks good; take a picture and post it here - and have a good race.

 

Will do bb!

 

Assuming they are Thule locks on factory LR3 systems and if Thule is anything like Yakima... which I bet they are... I believe you can get a master key which will remove the entire lock cylinder from the rack, allowing you to find the code and match it to the Thule key you will need for your cylinders.
I found this out when I had lock issues on some Yakima ski racks. (If I remember correctly the master key had no teeth on it, lock cylinder slid out and I bought the key using the key code on the cylinder)