2006 Range Rover Sport HSE 4.4

I have had some electrical issues with the 2006 Range Rover Sport.

As some of you may recall, at 15,000 miles, our 2006 Range Rover Sport had a rodent problem. Some rats took up residency in our beautiful Giverny Green with cream leather interior RRS. Some wires were chewed. We thought that we got them all sorted. The truck has run really well for the most part for the last 30,000 miles. I am now just over 46,000 miles.

ONGOING ISSUES

Several months ago, I started having voltage issues. I swapped out several alternators, problems persisted. The truck would randomly not start. I ended up "by-passing" one fuse in the engine compartment fuse box due to faulty connection (Kudos to The British Garage in San Diego for some keen diagnosis, great Indy shop). Since the bypass fuse has been installed, all is good. Since I changed out the alternator and installed the by-pass fuse, I am still only showing 13.2 to 13.7 volts while the truck is running, using a voltmeter and a Gap Tool to verify voltage. (possibly related,but probably not, I have been having a strong crank, but slow start over the last month or so. If I turn the key to the on position and let it sit for 4 or 5 seconds and then crank it, it seems to start up faster.) The headlights don't move, they are stuck "cross-eyed." I have also noticed that my cooler box will sometimes not come on, indicating a possible low voltage issue. I have also noticed some clunking in the transmission while occasionally driving on the freeway, not always. I have not noticed it at any other time. I am thinking that all symptoms are related to an electrical issue.

NEW SYMPTOM

On occasion, when it starts up, I get several warning lights on the dash, all amber/yellow. The lights are 1. the yellow "brake" warning; 2. the yellow DSC triangle with an exclamation point and a circle surround the triangle; and 3. the yellow suspension outline of the back of a vehicle with and up and down arrow inside and two arrows on either side of the top of the vehicle image. I usually turn it off and start it up again and the images all disappear. (I turned it on the other day and started driving before I noticed the yellow warning lights, the truck seemed to run fine).

The positive and negative cables to the battery appear to be in almost new shape. The truck spent its first winter in Indianapolis and the last 13 years here in San Diego. It is generally rust and corrosion free.

I am about to throw in the towel. I am worried about driving out of the local area for fear that the transmission issue may flare up, whether it be an electrical issue or a mechanical issue. HELP!

thanks Phil

2005 Land Rover LR3 HSE 4.4
2006 Range Rover Sport HSE 4.4
2010 Range Rover Sport HSE 5.0

 

Firstly, were the alternators "Denso" or some other brand. These engines have problems when not Denso. You may have an earthing problem. First one to check is the battery negative to the body. Make sure you have a good connection on the large fuse on the positive cable.

 

This truck is possessed. Dang rats. Connections all seem good. Driving in to my essential job this morning the transmission started jerking a bit. Cooler box shut down (it does that when voltage drops). I checked the voltage, 12.3. I heard a clicking from under the glove box area, cjb. Got into the parking garage and put it in park, voltage increased to 13.1. Alternator is good, positive and ground cables look good. I am thinking that the engine compartment fuse box has more connections issues. Phil

 

Seems like a dying alternator to me, at least at first glance. You are going from alt power to battery, crates momentary brown-outs and the ECUs crash. Check the primary strip fuse located in the black "module" mounted to the positive battery connector. The module sits nets to the battery when mounted. Open it up, inspect for corrosion.

 

I will check the main cables again.

On the way to the office today I monitored the voltage. I live about 10 miles from my office, 3 miles on residential side streets and a two-lane boulevard, 6 miles on the freeway and a little less than a mile from the freeway off-ramp to my parking garage.

When I started the truck it was showing 13.7 volts. I backed up and pulled onto the street, voltage was moving up and down from 13.7 to 13.6. Driving to the freeway voltage gradually dropped to 13.1 to 13.2. Once on the freeway and "freeway" speed voltage continued to gradually drop to 12.7, then 12.6, then 12.5. I heard the cooler click off at around 12.7 volts. After the 6 miles on the freeway, voltage was dancing from 12.2 to 12.4. (I did not experience any transmission jerking/skipping during the drive in today). I drove the last mile or so on downtown city streets, not much traffic in this Covid-19 era. Voltage started going up, by the time I pulled in to my parking garage, the voltage had risen back to 12.7 to 12.9. I pulled into a spot and let it idle for a few minutes, voltage rose up to 13.1, 13.2, At idle, the headlights and radio were on. I let the truck idle and shut the radio off and turned off the lights, no difference in the voltage. Still jumping between 13.1 and 13.2.

I am just perplexed. I had changed the alternator with a verified good rebuilt, I actually had several alternators rebuilt trying to fix the voltage problem in the RRS. I then installed a good OEM alternator from a wrecked truck. No difference in the voltage showing. As some of you may recall, the truck had a bad engine bay fuse box, some the connections were bad. I had to by-pass one fuse with a remote fuseholder and fuse. That resolved some issues, but the voltage never got back up into the 14 plus range that we have on our LR3 and what is reported in a properly operating LR3 or RRS.

Still scratching my head.

Phil

2006 Range Rover Sport HSE
2005 LR3 HSE HD
2010 Range Rover Sport HSE

 

Mine starts at no less than 14.2v. 13.5 is pretty average when driving, I dont think I have ever actually seen it drop below 13 when running. 12 to 12.5 is pretty standard for a charged battery. Check that main fusable link.

 

My alternator is showing 14.5+ when I measure using a multimeter directly off of the alternator positive post. I show 13.4 or below at the battery terminals. my Gap Tool shows 13.4 or less. As I drive the voltage drops. As it drops, certain electrical components start to shut off, the cooler box is the most obvious. As the voltage drops in the mid 12 range, I notice some transmission jerking-type symptoms, almost like it hiccups a bit. I notice it mostly on the freeway, but noticed it on a side-street going about 35 mph a few days ago, I probably had not noticed because our roads are so cracked and filled with potholes! Nice work San Diego, but that is a story for another day.

I checked every fuse in the engine bay, all good. I tested the voltage on the battery with the truck running it starts at 13.2 to 13.4 and then slowly starts to drop. after about 15 minutes while sitting in the driveway, it dropped to 12.6.

I am thinking that is something to do with the positive battery cabling coming from the alternator and going to the battery.

I checked the fusable link in the square rectangular box attached to the positive battery cable. I checked continuity, it was good. The connection looked good. I took out the link and used a file to rough up each side of the fusable link and the connecting surfaces of the holder. Put it all together and I am still getting high 14 volts at the alternator and 13.4. to 13.6 at the battery.

Has anyone experienced a bad positive battery cable before? Any ideas, clues or suggestions. I guess that I could run a tandem cable from the alternator to the battery and see what that shows.

thanks Phil

 

The main fuseable link could still be bad, seen it before. Hairline microscopic crack that gives continuity but causes issues. But for now we will assume it fine. I agree on running a tandem cable. How does the battery clamp itself look? What are you using for a ground point when testing the alt and getting higher voltage? If you are not using the battery ground, do so next time. It could then show its actually a ground issue.

The positive battery cable has a large T in it. It goes from the battery to the T then off to the starter and off to the alternator. I suppose that T connection could have corrosion?

 

With the help of this forum. Thanks Dakota traveler and Abran and others!

I think I figured out my voltage issue! Either a bad ground cable or bad ground post on the right fender. with the truck running If I check the alternator I get 14.75 volts. If I check the battery I get 12.4 to 13.6 volts. It tends to drift. Starts high and generally moves lower.

I checked the positive terminal and grounded to the engine. 14.75 volts.(I checked the battery post. The back of the screw in the disable link holder and the End cable that comes from the alternator and connects to the disable link holder. All showed 24.75 or higher when grounded to the engine block)

wither the ground cable is bad or the ground post on the right inside fender is bad.

not resolved yet but I think that we found the problem.

 

The battery negative is a simple ground cable going to a nut. Its well known to corrode, especially if the battery is not vented like it should (there is a factory hose for the battery to vent through). Pull the battery for best access. Clean, remove or just replace the entire cable with new terminals.