Let's re-open this discussion with an off-road bias.

My rig is currently on air and I've sworn i would never go coils simply because you would loose height. The truck currently weighs in well over stock, approx 7500 lbs loaded. I also run with Johnson Rods so even with all that weight I'm at +2" standard and then still have the extra 'off road' mode height.

I assume any coil conversion is aimed at a stock truck's weight. So even the OME +2" springs would be lucky to get me back to my standard height. in fact, I suspect they would sit even lower. Now I'll have lost 3"+ of height and that's before we even start talking about extended or super-extended mode when the truck high-centers.

I suppose you could seek out custom springs to regain the lostt 3", but now you're rolling down the highway full time at that height. Seems like not such a good thing. And you'll never get the emergency lift back at all.

Given that the single biggest handicap of the LR3 off-road seems to be the limited break-over, particularly at the sills, I'd say loosing ANY height would be a massive determinant.

And yet the idea is constantly in the back of my head when I start fighting EAS problems again and again.

Somebody tell me if I'm wrong on this. I'd love the simplicity of coils, I just don't see how they can work as well as the air (when it works) in serious off-roading.

 

I guess I repeat my comment that rather than convert to coils, just buy a Jeep, but gee, that is giving up - just not in the Land Rover tradition.

To me, the advantage of the 3 is the air suspension; yes, when it quits, a Toyota looks better, but I think the uniqueness of the 3 is worth putting up with the air.

To me, the air suspension is more reliable than it seems at times.

The air springs basically do not fail unless something goes thru them - yes, sticks do pop up and puncture the bladders, but that is rare. If there is any problem, it is that changing out shocks is if not near impossible, a real pain and expense, compared to even the FFRR.

The air compressor, and I mean the Hitachi, is fairly reliable. I think the main reason it quits is not due to mechanical breakage but because the desiccant has broken down and turned to dust. I think the air dryer should be seen in the same fashion as the inner tie rod ends - replace the desiccant every 20,000 miles or so, and the compressor will not quit. I think that is why the Hitachi was OK in the testing stage - runs forever, but once on the vehicle, with the air dryer in real world use, the well every five years is about the best you can get - and it sounds like the replacement AMK is no different.

If there is a weak system, is is with the wheel sensor harness. Maybe it is better now, but with the early 3's, corrosion and hence breakage of the conductors in the first foot off the sensor connector was a guarantee.

I have often thought that if one was a keener, one would build up at least five replacement sections of harness, perhaps 2 ft long of say 18 gauge conductor, with perhaps the common GM/Delphi Weather Pack connectors on both ends. One would also order up five sets of the LR sensor cable repair kits that terminate with the sensor connector on one end and on the loose end, connect the matching Weather Tech connector.

The idea would be that you would then cut off two feet or so of LR factory sensor harness at each wheel and tie in the upgraded lengths. Then when the harness got damaged near the sensors, you would just unplug it and install one of your spare harness lengths.

In other words, plan for the problem and have the solution pre made. I think with the 18 gauge conductor on the last couple of feet and that section of cable perhaps armored with electrical flex, that you may not even have any more harness problems.

The other area of concern is the front and rear wheel block valves. I think the reason they leak has to do with the grinding effect of the broken down desiccant on the valve seats - hence if you replace the desiccant, then you might want to consider installing new block valves as well.

I regard the circuit boards as reliable, but as I have not figured out how to keep fluids out of the up down switch, that is a real area of weakness, yet to be resolved. I would like to think LR eventually designed a fluid resistant switch that it could be replaced with, but I doubt it.

Anyway, if you can figure out how to keep your air suspension reliable, you will always have a real off road, (and on road as well), advantage over the coil spring guys.

 

I have a Jeep... It's not without faults, some I caused, others.... Well, it's a Chrysler after all. 2006 Unlimited 4.88's & lockers, 55k miles and some dents.

This last week I rebuilt it's transfer case (Seals, bent output shaft...)

Getting back LR...

It's EAS system has it's problems, we're all familiar with them, I am talking height sensors, air blocks, struts and compressor. Relatively speaking, easy fixes. Once rebuilt/replaced you should be good for some time.

What I don't like, are the countless other reasons the computer tells the perfectly working EAS to lower on its bump stops.

Screw uniqueness, I want reliability damit!

 

I must agree with you - Safe Mode belongs in desktop computers, not mobile ones like the 3.

I guess that is what happens when computer guys and lawyers design off road vehicles. To somewhat resolve that reality, I installed what I call my F35 mod that effectively pulls the F35 fuse in the passenger side fuse box and hence freezes the air suspension system. That is not a perfect solution but at least it does inhibit the "drop to the stops" action.

I regard the Downhill Assist feature as the root cause of the problem. That system ties the throttle, brakes, tranny and brake lights all together. A perceived abnormality in one of those systems triggers the safe mode function and down goes the suspension. Lots of expensive vehicles have 4 corner air suspension, but very few, (none?), have any sort of downhill speed management feature and hence do not suffer Safe Mode, as does the 3.

I suspect if one was able to bypass the Downhill Assist, a lot of the triggers for going into safe mode would be eliminated.

Regarding the Jeep transfer case rebuild, would you say you pushed the Jeep harder than you would the 3? I was wondering if you think mechanical stuff under the 3 would have similarly failed under the same conditions as did the Jeep?

 

I really don't know... I can say with confidence the 3's body/trim parts wouldn't last, and we all know the 3's front lower control arm life expectancy.

On the trail, yes, not because the 3 couldn't, but because the Jeep has Currie steering linkage, Currie adjustable arms, 4" lift with plenty of travel, plus it has rock protection. Jeeps have a strong aftermarket support.

 

Agree with all that's been posted. The EAS when working is superior to coils. The Defender has coils, yes, but it also has solid axles. It's well understood that an independent suspension's weakness is lack of articulation. The LR3 articulates just fine, but much of that is due to the EAS.

As for reliability, the compressors need servicing. The wires need inspecting. The sensors are easy to replace and cheap (keep in field-repair/spares kit) and I don't really think there are THAT many scenarios that put you in bump stops. As for the shocks, they do fail by themselves (not just a puncture) HOWEVER, this can be observed before it happens. When the shocks fade, they allow increased travel; so just check for clearance (like your pinky) between the upper control arm and the shock cannister when your LR3 is on a lift. If there is no contact and/or sufficient clearance, you're okay.

So...if you are overlanding, I'd give the nod to the coils...if the terrain isn't going to be technical. That said, and this is a kudo to bbyer and his F35 thing, just pull the fuses once you're on your overlanding route and at the height you want.

@zelastore: From your earlier posts, you've messed with your EAS a lot, so your frustration with the EAS isn't really fair.

 

And there you have it. I rarely seem to have an actual problem (no failed bags or compressors or broken air lines) but it seems like if somebody sneezes within 50 yards of the truck it spooks and goes to the bumpstops.

 

This is true, of course most of what I am messing with is trying to overcome the weaknesses of the vehicle or it's design in order to push it further than it was intended. I suspect if it were stock I wouldn't have nearly the issues I do but if it was stock I'd have no use for it since I prefer to travel outside of the Nordstrom's parking lot or the occasional foray across my back yard.

I've explained to people before, the LR3 is very good - up to a point. After that point, it's almost impossible to go any further. For those of you with a boating background, think of it like hitting hull speed on a displacement hull. Very easy to go up to that speed but after that you can throw all the power in the world at it and only get marginal gains.

That's why I just bought an RRC - to get down the trails the LR3 can't.

 

Don, I don't agree with you at all. I have had my LR3 for 10 years. I've wheeled it stock, I've wheeled it with some mods...at NO point could I not keep up with an RRC.

With nothing more than an IIDTool, you can fit 32" tires. That with the indi suspension gets you enough ground clearance down the middle that you should be fine to do everything but the double-black-diamond and up trails. So if that is what you are talking about, sure, I can agree with that. ...but saying a stock LR3 is not fit for some real trails is completely inaccurate.

Secondly, your statement about the EAS failing easily is also inaccurate. I've found it to be quite robust considering all the moving parts and electronics. Like I said in other posts, very few conditions actually put you on bumpstops. Clearly you have pissed yours off by putting on too much aftermarket stuff. For you to now go and call out the EAS as fragile is a bit asinine.

Most on this board and all others know that a 32" tire is the biggest you can go on an LR3 without starting to cut 'n trim. It's sort of the upper bound of the sweet spot. To fit those, you don't need spacers and rods and all that other crap. You just need an IIDTool.

I don't mean to come on too strong, but I tend to react harshly when people put the LR3 on blast without qualifying their statements or thinking about their specific situation.

 

For anyone thinking of making the switch to coils, at least the ones that increase height. You'll need to address the height sensors to appease the ABS system, the magic orange box included with each kit only fools computer so you don't see any EAS dash warnings.

If you already have the GAP/IIDT tool, you know already how to reprogram it. Aftermarket rods accomplish the same thing by fooling computer that you're in normal ride height.