First time using a pull behind cargo trailer, going through Uhaul. Will I be plug and go or is there anything I need to consider prior?

 

make sure you have the hitch and the wiring harness for light plug in

 

Just be aware that if the trailer lighting is completely LED that you will see very quick flashes/blinks on the trailer lights. I believe it's the LR's bulb checker and the LEDs don't have significant resistance so you'll see them blink.

It's odd, but when I stop for a while I just unplug the harness and then plug back in when I'm ready to get back on the road.

 

To clarify, you'll see the trailer lights pulsing/blinking when the LR3 lights are off (even when the car is off). If your lights are turned on, the issue goes away. I believe all U-hauls have LED lights now, so you'll experience this issue. It bothers me (even though you don't see anything from in the cab), so I just turn my lights on all the time while I'm driving an as the above poster described, I unplug the harness when stopped for long periods.

The other issue that you'll run into is that the LR3 won't know you're pulling a trailer because it doesn't detect the resistance from the incandescent trailer bulbs. This means that you won't see the little trailer icon on the dash and the car won't adjust accordingly. The suspension will adjust automatically to the added tongue weight, but your shift points, etc. will not adjust. Probably not a big deal at all with a relatively small U-haul trailer, but if you're pulling an Airstream, it might matter...

 

That sucks. I wonder if it makes sense to just get a few incandescent bulbs or resistors and put them into the wiring to create a bit more load? Seems like it would take some testing to determine how much is enough. Not worth it for a rental uHaul, but if you tow something large regularly it might be needed.

 

I got pulled over once while towing an LED equipped Uhaul trailer. Officer thought I had my hazards on because of the flashing. No big deal, I explained the issue. I tow a trailer almost weekly, and would like to upgrade the lights to LED. Thinking of making a harness with a resistor, that way I'm good to go with not only my trailer, but any that I might tow. Surprised someone hasn't come up with this, maybe I should market this.

 

Thank you all. I ended up forgoing the trailer because of lack of harness. The U-haul worker said he could install one but it'd have to go to the battery and it was a significant install. I'd just rather do it on my own on my own time without a rush, but thank you for all the info it will help when I eventually do this install.

 

In the future, don't install a U-haul harness. Just buy the Land Rover harness or the Atlantic British aftermarket harness. They are plug and play and require removing the rear driver's side tail light, but that's about it. Pretty simple and something you can do yourself, but not something you want to do when in a rush. IIRC, the harness is about $130-150 and provides you with the 4 pin connector that U-hauls use in addition to the 7 pin connector. You also need the Land Rover hitch receiver obviously if you don't have one already. Best bet is to find a used one for $300-350 because new ones go upwards of $550 or so. Then, you'll need the hitch and ball. You'll probably want a 3 1/4" drop for the U-haul trailers I think. Maybe a 2" drop will be fine...

In response to the replies above, you can build your own electronics box to negate the blinking, but it's more complicated than just adding a resistor inline. There are many many threads about that here, on disco3 and on aulro. Basically, you will need something like a set of relays in addition to the resistors because the resistors will allow the truck to see a load, and thus change into its "tow mode", but it will not stop the pulses from reaching the LED lights. Incandescent lights are slow enough to react that the pulses do not affect them, but LED lights will continue to pulse. In order to keep the pulses from reaching the lights, you also need to install relays (or perhaps capacitors) or something else inline that will allow the signal for braking, turn signals, etc. through, but not allow the tiny quick pulse though.

 

If you aren't after quick release than this is a option for a lot less money.

Fit Discovery 3 4 Range Rover Sport Class 3 III 2" Tow Trailer Hitch Receiver | eBay

 

Anyone out there using the quick release with a 2.5" rod lift? Curious if the lift changes the geometry enough that the quick release wouldn't handle the same size tongue weight and GVWR.