The Guided Calibration is definitely what I'd do. Make sure it's nuts-on, then take it for a spin. Make sure to get up to highway speed and ensure it doesn't fault out; I think the Cross-Art Fault triggers at some speed like 45mph or something. Also, be ready for that occurrence, should it happen. I'd suggest right lane and be prepared to pull over so you can cycle the ignition to clear it.

For the vehicle raising, this is what I do:

Look at the calibration values and see what the highest number is. Subtract that from the upper limit, which I think is 255. Then add that result to each corner, maybe leaving one unit of margin. So for example if your calibration values are: 223, 183, 187, 210....I'd add to each corner until it's: 254, 214, 218, 241. Then I'd save that as a setting. Also, make sure you save your prior calibration (after you do the guided cal process) as either original or a different setting. I have my current "stock" calibration as "MySet.1" and my "lifted" calibration as "MySet.3."

....hope that helps. Please let us know how it goes!

 

So the calibration seems to have done the trick. Drove about 50 for a bit and no issues and no faults. Fingers crossed.

of course I find out after that when replacing any suspension components it needs a calibration. learning the hard way by doing I guess.

there is still one concern I have though …it seems to like to go into extended mode thinking something is underneath like an obstacle where it clearly is not the case. Seems to happen on uneven surfaces, but nothing out of the ordinary (ie a gravel driveway or shoulder)

thoughts on this ? Am I forgetting another gap setting?

 

Ooooooh, I can't remember the root cause of that Extended Mode thing. Blockage somewhere, maybe. Or your calibration is sending it beyond its range and it's going into Extended Mode maybe. What are the live values of your calibration?

Hey! Never a bad thing to refresh suspension components, I think!

 

When replacing sensors is the only time a calibration is needed. Maybe you were just stuck in tight tolerance mode or service mode and the calibration bumped it out? But a bad sensor could cause you extended mode issue and even your cross articulation faults. Also a bad compressor or even a new aftermarket can cause the extended mode faults.

 

can gap detect a bad sensor?

 

Well a bad sensor usually generates a code. But you can read the lives values in GAP and then play with each sensor manual to observe the readout and look for any odd drops outs, etc.

 

One more thing that can cause a cross-art fault is if the bracket holding the sensor is bent and out of place....that happened to me a few years ago.

 

Damn. Was going so well. Took it for a really long ride today. Didn’t give me a bump stop surprise however it did give me lots of errors.

im just trying to honestly think of the cost of a new compressor (which I honestly think is needed) and the cost of possibly an oem valve block vs coils. I know that I should try and preserve this but there is value in taking it out of the equation.

thoughts on this and the faults below?

 

I'd suck it up and replace the rear valve block and compressor. While neither are a "one and done" at least you know you're good for a long while. I think you'd regret changing to coils.

Also, I don't know that that last fault means your compressor is necessarily toast.

 

Thanks. Honestly on the fence about this…

also I’m getting those extended mode/obstacle clear messages again and it’s not allowing a normal mode to be attained.

such a sensitive system….