Suspension Fault
Hi All,
I've been bitten by the suspension fault bug for the first time with my '05 LR3 SE (new to me as of this past summer), and am hoping some of you can help me figure out where the problem lies. When I start the vehicle, there are no faults. I hear the compressor working for a while (a minute or two), and then the fault lights up, the compressor stops humming, and I get a "normal height only" message. I pulled the faults today with my IID tool, and here's what was listed: U0102-87 (2E) Lost communication with transfer case control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message U0132-87 (2E) Lost communication with ride level control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message U0184-87 (2F) Lost communication with audio unit - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message C1A20-64 (6C) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure U0132-87 (08) Lost communication with ride level control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message I then cleared the faults, restarted the vehicle, and the same suspension fault light showed up. The IID tool then pulled these faults: C1A20-64 (2E) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure U0132-87 (08) Lost communication with ride level control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message Battery is fairly new, so I'd be surprised if that was to blame. Instead, I'm thinking it's something like a failing compressor, a bad suspension fuse, a bad relay, a bad height sensor, clogged dryer, or ??? What I'm wondering is how does one start ferreting out which of these multiple causes it could be. I'd certainly like to avoid replacing the compressor if I don't have to! Many thanks, -Captain Sygo '05 LR3 SE |
Did it rain recently? Could also be water intrusion on the TC module or the harness for some of those codes.
THe EAS side of it I would think tired compressor. The original style of compressor they sell rebuild kits for, or you can switch to the new and improved version |
Before you order anything, pull the cover and see if you have a Hitachi or AMK.
Rebuild of Hitachi is easy and cheap. If AMK, need to replace. If the compressor overheated, you may have a leak. I bought a junk yard AMK from low mileage Rover. All errors are gone and pumps up quickly. |
Thanks for the quick replies, ArmyRover and Geo!
It did indeed rain recently (and it's otherwise been a fairly dry autumn, so the rain was unusual). Not sure where to look for the TC module to inspect for water ingress - can you point me in the right direction? Also, which harnesses should I be checking? Thanks again! -Captain Sygo |
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...gry-lr3-85483/
my second post has a link to a great thread in the first 5 posts you will find the info on the module. For the wiring harnesses getting wet check down by the sill plates on the floor for damp carpet. If you are really motivated pop the sill covers and see if you have been getting water in the wiring channel. I was so I popped a couple of drain holes. Passenger side is more common for issues but I did both as I was bored and didn't want to tempt fate. |
Thanks ArmyRover - this will be my weekend project!
-Captain Sygo |
My suspension related issues went away after I replaced the reservoir itself as mine had a small pin hole leak causing the compressor to run to long and the pressure to not build enough. Reason why I mention it is you pulled 2 codes related to pressure increasing too slowly. Good news is that the reservoir is inexpensive from the dealer and can be replaced in the driveway in about 1/2 an hour. For extra protection from debris kicking off the front tires, I layered up the bed liner coating on the reservoir before I installed it
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If it's the Hitachi compressor it could just be dying...if it's the AMK it could be a software update needed.
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Originally Posted by EastCoast
(Post 624045)
My suspension related issues went away after I replaced the reservoir itself as mine had a small pin hole leak causing the compressor to run to long and the pressure to not build enough. Reason why I mention it is you pulled 2 codes related to pressure increasing too slowly. Good news is that the reservoir is inexpensive from the dealer and can be replaced in the driveway in about 1/2 an hour. For extra protection from debris kicking off the front tires, I layered up the bed liner coating on the reservoir before I installed it
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I checked the TC module today - it was dry as bone and had no sign of corrosion at the harness plug connections to it. Then I took the compressor cover off, and it looks like the Hitachi. On the plate with the serial number is also some hand-written code (0526-1132), written in white paint. I'm thinking that probably means that this is the second compressor for this rig, unless others have generally seen writing like this on OEM compressors.
Either way, I'm looking at rebuilding the compressor or looking for leaks somewhere. Is there an easy way to figure out which path makes the most sense? I'd rather save myself time and money by avoiding the "try things 'til it works" method. Thanks, -Captain Sygo '05 LR3 SE |
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