Was bottomed out on all four corners this morning when
I went out. Started with door open and got the fault indicator immediately. Hit the switch to raise to off road, which it did as soon as I closed the door. Standing at the left rear, I watched all four inflate to full height. Listening to the compressor at the left rear, I could hear it stop, then air was let out (did not sound like a constant leak) and the compressor would re-start. Kept doing this till I shut truck off. No issues on other corners, that I am aware of.

 

I've not given up yet, but am considering my options. First, is there a way to reset the entire system? It seems as though the left rear is holding some air, but that it is out of sync with the other corners? Lastly, anyone use a conversion kit successfully to get rid of the air system altogether? I'm not a huge fan anyways....

 

Dude...buy a damn IIDTool and save yourself some guesswork. It will tell you what your issue is (likely a bad sensor/calibration as we've been telling you) and it will allow you to re-calibrate it. It's $400 well-spent and the sensors aren't that expensive either.

Instead you're talking crazy about conversions to coils. Yes it's out there. Yes it's been done. Yes it's been talked about plenty on this board. If you are not into off-roading then you can do that. It makes the suspension simpler but takes away a lot of the advantages and capabilities of the LR3.

If you don't get the IIDTool as a next step then you're just dickin' around.

 

Is the car bottoming out after pulling fuses, or is it just on its bump stomps normally when you come out? You really can't troubleshoot anything with the EAS unless you pull the fuse (23?) because the computer will continually try to level the car out. This makes it impossible to pin down a leak with the air constantly equalizing throughout. You need to pull the fuse to shut the brain down and make sure the valves aren't opened. Then, let it rest and tell us what the results are.

 

Harsh but true.

I think that should be the official sig line for this board:

'quit dickin' around and get a IID tool'

 

Finally, some advice that will help me (maybe) distinguish between an actual leak and a sensor issue. Thanks cmb6s for the tip, it's free and easy to try. As some of the other members have eluded to the possibility, I am not an off-roader. My LR3 is a daily workhorse. So yes, I am just "dickin' around" to try and keep my expenses to a minimum, not having $400-$500 to buy a piece of diagnostic equipment, or the stomach to take it to a Rover dealer. Which is exactly why I joined this forum. Thanks to all!

 

Trust me, the best advice you've gotten on this thread is to get a GAP tool- even if you're just using it for a mommyvan. Has nothing to do with being an off-roader, has everything to do with being able to self-diagnose and sort out issues without having to go to a dealer ever time a warning light comes on. Just like you may need a special socket to work on a certain vehicle, if you want to do any work on a late model Rover you pretty much need a way to talk to the computers. It's more rolling laptop than car.

Sort of exactly what you asked for.

As for the fuse trick, I thought that was already suggested some time back. It's a well-known trick for the LR3. I forget what fuses to pull exactly since I haven't had to go that route with the GAP tool, but if you search here for 'suspension fuse' you'll find lots of info here.

 

Yep, got it to normal height this morning and pulled the fuse, per bbyer's advice. See what happens over the next few days.

 

bbyer is a good one to follow - knows his stuff that one, even though I hear (gasp!) he might be a Canadian!

 

x2

If I ever ran into bbyer in-person I would definitely buy him a beer or 3.