I have been having some suspension issues. I read somewhere that normal ride height is 19.5" give or take on rear, and 19.0" give or take on front. I know I've got leaks somewhere in the system, because it has been raising quite a bit in the mornings when I first get to the car. The rear raises up in less than 3 seconds, but the front has been taking a bit longer, somewhere in the realm of 10 seconds. It will raise up to a certain point, the suspension fault message with normal ride height will pop up, the compressor shuts off, it shuts off the terrain adjustment ****, and then after a few seconds, the dashboard goes back to the main screen, with the error in the background. I have never been able to get the ride height adjustment switch to work at all. However, this morning, when I first cranked it up, before the error message popped up, I played with the **** adjustment and put it in rock crawl, just to see if the ride height would adjust. It sounded as if something under the car was adjusting to "lock-in" maybe (it definitely was not the compressor activating), and then the suspension fault normal ride height only error came up on the dash. This time, however, the message won't move to the background, and it's constantly flashing on the dash while I'm driving. No other mal-effects on the driveability that I can tell. I drove around for a minute, then took some measurements from the center hub to the fender lip. In inches, FL is 18, FR is 17.25, RL is 18.625, RR is 18, with aftermarket wheels and tires that measure .5" bigger in diameter than the stock wheels. I disco'd the battery 10 minutes to see if that would reset the system, and it's doing the same thing when I crank. Any advice? I don't have an IIDTool, but it's on my list of things to buy. I'm in Melbourne, FL, if anyone else lives nearby. I also do not know if the ride height sensors have ever been replaced, or if the compressor has ever been rebuilt at 160K miles. Do the height sensors require a calibration after install? Also, I currently have the EAS fuse pulled. Going to let it sit for several hours to see if I can't find which corner is leaking.

 

...sounds like you have a leak and a dying compressor.

 

I picked up this cheap little bluetooth scanner for land rovers and was able to diagnose my suspension issues and solve them three times so far. (Various issues arose over time) There's very short list of things it won't do but for $60 bucks vs $530 bucks, it's a steal.

What color is your light on the dash, Amber or Red?

I'd get the tool I sent the link to without question, at that price it does so much, it's nuts not to have. I'll continue to hold out for an IDII tool, I don't plan to ever get one at their insane price. If you can order this much cheaper tool, it'll tell you specifically what's going on with the suspension, it'll even tell you the common land rover specific fixes for the issue which is nice but better yet just post there here in this thread and a few of us can walk you through. There's about 5 guys in here that are well versed in suspension specific issues that'll come to the rescue, one of them has responded already above.

-Greg

 

I ordered that tool. The light is amber. It has always lit up amber. have not seen red yet.

 

Well amber is a step better than the red that I started with. You'll install that device app on your phone and the second app that the first will demand also be installed. At that point the app will fire up.

-Install app on phone + second app (some diag-euro named app)
-Pair Bluetooth device
-Plugin ODBII device to vehicle, turn the ignition on all the way but don't start vehicle.
-The main two modes you'll use is "Diagnostic" or "service". For this situation you'll want "diagnostic"
-At this point it'll ask "auto" or "manual" a for a couple things, auto is fine. It'll lookup your VIN and confirm you've the correct vehicle, tell it "yes".
-You can then choose to scan a particular module such as the suspension or tire sensors etc., OR you can scan it all with "auto", I suggest you scan it all with auto and see all your faults.
-There's I think two faults under "BCM" which it will show faults for but they're to big ignored and they'll tell you such.
-The Suspension issue you'll have will be under "air-ride suspension" or something to that effect.
-READ / ERASE / LIVE DATA ..... choose "read". Screenshot or save the log data and let us know what it is for reference. You could do this for any other modules showing faults as some can affect the air suspension besides the ones under air suspension directly.
-Now I'd back out and on the screen where it showed "BCM", "Air suspension" and many more modules there's a "quick erase", this option will clear every modules code. I would do this if you're done investigating. Then I'd remove the key, put it back in and fire up the car, see what returns and record. it.

Under the "service" side of the tool is things like calibration, key fob programming and TPMS, that kind of thing, I'd avoid jumping into that unless you know what you're doing. You can certainly do a bad calibration etc and make things worse.

Some of this info should save you a few minutes I think. The tool is VERY intuitive which is a plus.

-Greg

 

Update, Here are the codes. Theres a lot
U0401-94, Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module
U0401-68, Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module
U0402-94, Invalid data received from transmission control module
U0416-94, Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control mudole
U0403-94, Invalid data received from transfer case control module
U0421-94, Invalid data received from ride level control module
C1A20-64, Pressure Increases too slow when filling reservoir
U0132-87, Lost communication with ride level control module
P0171-00, System too lean (bank 1)
P0172-00, System to rich (bank 1)
P0174-00, System to lean (bank 2)
P0175-00, System to rich (bank 2)
P0441-00, Evaporative emissions system incorrect purge flow (historic)
P081C-00, Park input circuit
U0127-87, Lost communication with Tire pressure monitor module
B1A87-68, Battery disconnection/electronic control unit reset
U2002-01, Switch general electrical failure
C1A00-17, Control Module
C1A64-93, Spare wheel tire pressure sensor and transmitter assembly
B1B01-87, Key Transponder
C0051-62, Steering wheel position sensor
P0826-00 Up and down switch input circuit


As you advised, I erased all codes and here are the ones that returned after a short 10 minutes drive:

U0132-87, Lost communication with ride level control module
C1A20-64, Pressure increases to slow when filling reservior
P0171-00, System too lean (bank 1)
P0172-00, System to rich (bank 1)
P0174-00, System to lean (bank 2)
P0175-00, System to rich (bank 2)

 

C1A20-64, Pressure increases to slow when filling reservior - this is usually because the drier dessicant has turned to powder and is blocking the filter pad, get a compressor service kit off amazon or ebay.

 

i ordered this one to rebuild the whole compressor, because who knows when the last time it was done.


Also, For the P017(X) codes, I already replaced the MAF with a Duralast brand after I tried cleaning the old one and before I read about how aftermarket sensors often don’t work as advertised for these vehicles. It did fix the check engine light for about a week, but came back. I ordered a MAP sensor from NAPA because I read here somewhere that those codes can be caused by a MAP sensor not reading vacuum properly. It’s currently on its way, but should I return it and go with an OEM MAP and MAF sensor?

 

In my case it was a worn out compressor, I opted for the Amazon compressor that was dirt cheap as it solved a few problems all at once, we'll see in couple years if that was a good choice. I'll probably rebuild my AMK in the meanwhile so it's ready to go. Mine was SUPER loud when pumping, not sure if the drier would cause that as well but if not, maybe that's a determining factor in drier issue vs worn piston rings issue on compressors.

 

Do you have the Hitachi and not the AMK compressor???? Might want to check, they're not compatible.

As for the lean/rich codes. Buy some "Mass Airflow Sensor" cleaner (don't use anything but that) and remove the 2 screws next to the airbox tube that hold the MAF sensor in. Give it a good cleaning AFTER it has cooled down 5 min and then reinstall after another 5 min when it's fully dry. DO NOT start the car with it still being wet to any degree, it'll wipe it out often times, it gets pre-heated when the ignition fires up on many cars. For me, this solved the issue but it took bout 10-15 drives for the code to drop off and not return. It slowly improved with every drive throwing the code less and less often, now it's finished, seems it re-learned the tables. Disco'd battery didn't fix it, had to drive it a while instead.

Gas cap not sealing can do the rich code and so could a bad O2 Sensor set, or lastly the EVAP system, all of which can be fixed.

-Greg