Thinking of a LR3
#1
03-12-2019, 10:45 PM
Join Date: Mar 2019
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Thinking of a LR3
I am a toyota guy-4-runner, highlander (with 243Kmi) but I have really liked the looks, capability and reviews of the 2007-2008 LR3's with some small mods. I am interested in it for day to day, commute is 13 mi daily, and a weekender to the mtns or beaches of nc from CLT... And for trails. Would love pro/con feedback, I know it will be a truck with, 100K-130K for my price range, any thoughts? Expectations are that it will NOT compare to toyota, BUT, when traveling, even in South Africa, I saw LR's killing it on trails.
Last edited by Brad Michael; 03-12-2019 at 10:48 PM.
#2
03-12-2019, 11:10 PM
Camel Trophy
$8k USD should get you want you want. The LR3 has matured to the point where most, if not all issues are known. DIY walk-throughs can be a little weak still but are growing and easily made up with direct forum advice.
You location would help. NC and CLT mean nothing to me. North Carolina maybe? I dunno. So assuming you are in the states, the LR3 will be a gasser. The 4.4 V8 is your best bet, especially if you live in a hilly area. The fuel economy of the V8 is not horrible. If I baby it, 20MPG is obtainable. (I have averaged even more than that on trips). The trims will be SE or HSE as you probably know. Really it comes down to the options you want. E-diff is not standard but much more common on the HSE model. A full-spare does not always mean you have an electronic locking diff, contrary to what you may have read. You need to run the VIN on a decoder or visually inspect the diff for a locker.
I think the one common issue you really need to look out for is water entry. There are three common ways it can get in. 1: Poorly designed exterior A pillar trim lets water in. 2: Poorly designed sunroof drain ends clog, hold moisture and rot off. 3: Windshield cowl can warp, if it warps above the cabin intake then it can get onto the HVAC fan/filter and inside. Significant water entry can cause significant issues.
Other issues are generally repairable, but having a proper Rover oriented code reader seems to be a must. There are a couple options.
As for comparing to a Toyota, you are right. A Toyota can not keep up.
You location would help. NC and CLT mean nothing to me. North Carolina maybe? I dunno. So assuming you are in the states, the LR3 will be a gasser. The 4.4 V8 is your best bet, especially if you live in a hilly area. The fuel economy of the V8 is not horrible. If I baby it, 20MPG is obtainable. (I have averaged even more than that on trips). The trims will be SE or HSE as you probably know. Really it comes down to the options you want. E-diff is not standard but much more common on the HSE model. A full-spare does not always mean you have an electronic locking diff, contrary to what you may have read. You need to run the VIN on a decoder or visually inspect the diff for a locker.
I think the one common issue you really need to look out for is water entry. There are three common ways it can get in. 1: Poorly designed exterior A pillar trim lets water in. 2: Poorly designed sunroof drain ends clog, hold moisture and rot off. 3: Windshield cowl can warp, if it warps above the cabin intake then it can get onto the HVAC fan/filter and inside. Significant water entry can cause significant issues.
Other issues are generally repairable, but having a proper Rover oriented code reader seems to be a must. There are a couple options.
As for comparing to a Toyota, you are right. A Toyota can not keep up.
#3
03-13-2019, 07:50 AM
Rock Crawling
the more service history it has, the better
especially things that show the owner stayed on top of the routine maintenance items. LR3's are dependable if you take care of them. Unlike say a Toyota, they dont like neglect.
No matter what, I'd budget an extra $1000 for piece of mind items to do after buying one.
1. get a GAP IID tool. this thing will pay for itself many times over. lets you read all codes, can change parameters in the ECUs, can clear errors.
2. change out the front diff, transfer case and rear diff fluids
3. swap out the transmission pan and filter, and fill with fresh fluid
#3 can probably wait, but would do it fairly soon. #1 is essential, and #2 is only about $100 and an hour of your time
especially things that show the owner stayed on top of the routine maintenance items. LR3's are dependable if you take care of them. Unlike say a Toyota, they dont like neglect.
No matter what, I'd budget an extra $1000 for piece of mind items to do after buying one.
1. get a GAP IID tool. this thing will pay for itself many times over. lets you read all codes, can change parameters in the ECUs, can clear errors.
2. change out the front diff, transfer case and rear diff fluids
3. swap out the transmission pan and filter, and fill with fresh fluid
#3 can probably wait, but would do it fairly soon. #1 is essential, and #2 is only about $100 and an hour of your time
#4
03-13-2019, 06:10 PM
Rock Crawling
I listened to all of the above when I bought 30k miles ago. I waited for a 100% documented, LR dealer serviced for life specimen.
Had new control arms, and alignment 1k miles before I bought it.
Apart from the initial costs of GAP tool, trans, diffs, fluids, PCV valve, MAF sensor, battery . . . all in the first 15k miles
The latter 15k miles have been insignificant filters, oil, EAS services (valve blocks, compressor rebuild), brake fluid/sensors/pads, oh - and another battery . . .
I really think I got a good one.
(knock on wood)
I have also adopted a conservative maintenance schedule too keep things fresh for the future
For my first LR, it's been a fun DIY experience!
Had new control arms, and alignment 1k miles before I bought it.
Apart from the initial costs of GAP tool, trans, diffs, fluids, PCV valve, MAF sensor, battery . . . all in the first 15k miles
The latter 15k miles have been insignificant filters, oil, EAS services (valve blocks, compressor rebuild), brake fluid/sensors/pads, oh - and another battery . . .
I really think I got a good one.
(knock on wood)
I have also adopted a conservative maintenance schedule too keep things fresh for the future
For my first LR, it's been a fun DIY experience!
#5
03-14-2019, 01:05 AM
Hey Doug,
How conservative is conservative? I picked up an ‘08 HSE [108K] and it had a great history. Lawyer owner [1 ownerOnly] did all maintenance and more for what I got from the dealer records. So far has been great [knock on wood]
Here is what I did so far:
1- Parking break and rear right rotor.
2- Lower Control arms
3- Wheel Hubs [Since I powder coated the Spindles cause of some rust]
4- Upgraded front Calipers to RRS Brembos
5- Few cosmetic upgrades.
6- Oil change, filter change, Cabin filter, Air filter.
Have NOT done Tranny, Diff and fluid, I guess I should...
No EAS work [Light for Normal height ONLY came on sporadically]
Did get IID BT [A MUST].
What schedule do you recommend... probably will drive 12K a year.
Thanks for any guidance!
How conservative is conservative? I picked up an ‘08 HSE [108K] and it had a great history. Lawyer owner [1 ownerOnly] did all maintenance and more for what I got from the dealer records. So far has been great [knock on wood]
Here is what I did so far:
1- Parking break and rear right rotor.
2- Lower Control arms
3- Wheel Hubs [Since I powder coated the Spindles cause of some rust]
4- Upgraded front Calipers to RRS Brembos
5- Few cosmetic upgrades.
6- Oil change, filter change, Cabin filter, Air filter.
Have NOT done Tranny, Diff and fluid, I guess I should...
No EAS work [Light for Normal height ONLY came on sporadically]
Did get IID BT [A MUST].
What schedule do you recommend... probably will drive 12K a year.
Thanks for any guidance!
#6
03-14-2019, 11:00 AM
Rock Crawling
Check history and mark your new miles for upcoming services, from when they were last done. If never done - or you don't know - do now and start keeping track.
I am coming up on 145k - bought at 115k.
I do (or will do when the time comes):
Oil 5k: Castrol GTX 5w30, Filter: WIX 57302, Drain Plug: M14 x 1.50 (plug every 4th change)
Cabin Filter 15k: Mann CUK 2747
Diffs 25k: Castrol Syntrax Longlife 75w-90 (LRN7591)
Transfer Case 25k: Shell TF 0753 (LRN0753, IYK500010)
Air Filter 30k: Mann C 31 196
Trans fluid 50k: ZF LifeGuard 6
Spark Plugs 90k: NGK IFR5N10 (LR005253), 1mm gap, 25Nm (18.5ft-lb)
Coolant 100k: Zerex DexCool (15L mix)
Thermostat (and hoses) 100k: LR005631
Engine belts: 100k
Brake Fluid every 2yr: Pentosin DOT4 LV (1.5L)
Brake hoses: 6yr
I just made a spreadsheet and mapped out the next 100k in 5k increments and wrote what is needed at each, and cross off when done.
I then add items that were not planned as I do them - Like cleaning throttle body, repairs, etc.
Hope this helps!
I am coming up on 145k - bought at 115k.
I do (or will do when the time comes):
Oil 5k: Castrol GTX 5w30, Filter: WIX 57302, Drain Plug: M14 x 1.50 (plug every 4th change)
Cabin Filter 15k: Mann CUK 2747
Diffs 25k: Castrol Syntrax Longlife 75w-90 (LRN7591)
Transfer Case 25k: Shell TF 0753 (LRN0753, IYK500010)
Air Filter 30k: Mann C 31 196
Trans fluid 50k: ZF LifeGuard 6
Spark Plugs 90k: NGK IFR5N10 (LR005253), 1mm gap, 25Nm (18.5ft-lb)
Coolant 100k: Zerex DexCool (15L mix)
Thermostat (and hoses) 100k: LR005631
Engine belts: 100k
Brake Fluid every 2yr: Pentosin DOT4 LV (1.5L)
Brake hoses: 6yr
I just made a spreadsheet and mapped out the next 100k in 5k increments and wrote what is needed at each, and cross off when done.
I then add items that were not planned as I do them - Like cleaning throttle body, repairs, etc.
Hope this helps!
Last edited by douglastic; 03-14-2019 at 11:05 AM.
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Daniel-LR3 (03-14-2019)
#7
03-14-2019, 01:41 PM
#8
03-15-2019, 11:03 AM
Factory schedule
I except for engine oil every 3750 and diff fluid every 30k I use this one and have had good results.
Since the 2006 I just got had 105,000 I started from the beginning making sure everything on the list was done before it hits 107500 miles. All is done but new rubber brake lines and trany fluid change and those are planned for this summer.
Jeff
Since the 2006 I just got had 105,000 I started from the beginning making sure everything on the list was done before it hits 107500 miles. All is done but new rubber brake lines and trany fluid change and those are planned for this summer.
Jeff
Last edited by Rufflyer; 03-15-2019 at 11:07 AM.
#9
03-15-2019, 11:39 PM
#10
04-18-2019, 01:44 PM
It depends. Honestly, if you are looking to focus on your adventures, stick with Toyota. If you want to focus on vehicle maintenance, odd issues, and a suspension that leaves you stranded off road, go with an LR3. Don't get me wrong, I do really like it but I knew what I was getting into. I had a Jeep before (loved it), but after that got totaled, it was time for something different. I was torn between something Toyota and an LR3. I like to be different and EVERYONE has a Toyota...so I went LR3. It looks great, super comfy, great off road, but now that I have finished building it up...I really wish I went Toyota.
Best of luck!
Best of luck!