TPMS random faults
#1
TPMS random faults
Hello everyone, I am a new LR3 owner, 2007 with 178.000 km. Sick and tired of the TPMS faults, I hope you can help me.I bought the Autel TS508 in order to investigate the issue. The problem are 2 faults: C1A60 and C1A62 INTERMITTENT , meaning issues with both rear tires.Before spending money, I rotate the tires rear to front and front to rear. As result I got C1A60,C1A62 and C1A64 the latter is a big bull****t because my car is not equipped with alloy spare and according the VIN I have a poor 175 steel spare tire. So I understood that tpms sensors are fine because the Autel reports always the rear wheels fault not being monitored (intermittent). So I erased the codes, OBD relearn, scanned tpms sensors and sent to OBD the new ID Info. What happens is that the REAR wheels according the OBD are crossed, in few words the tpms ECU does not retain the proper ID of each rear tpms sensors and it mixes them, it crosses the ID. I erased the faults again and I have C1A56, C1A60 and C1A62, so now the new entry is the front left wheel. I do not think I have the initiators damaged cause I would have 2 rears faulty (what a coincidence both!) and now also the front left.I ordered a used TPMS ECU,same year same model.What do you guys think? Tpms sensors are VDO and battery is fine according the Autel.Thank you
P.S. sometimes I hear the beep of the parking sensors and once I saw a message on the computer board "front parking sensor fault" . This could reinforce my thought about Tpms ecu gone.
P.S. sometimes I hear the beep of the parking sensors and once I saw a message on the computer board "front parking sensor fault" . This could reinforce my thought about Tpms ecu gone.
Last edited by palumatto; 12-14-2022 at 04:52 PM.
#4
Still managing the issue. I bought on ebay a used module, you have no idea how much time I am wasting because it pulls other fault messages every 2 seconds (check all tires pressures and amber light on and off hundred times with no reason).
I will try a second hand module again, if does not work I will deactivate it. No reason to spend 500 bucks for a new module, plus the headliner to fix every time.
I will try a second hand module again, if does not work I will deactivate it. No reason to spend 500 bucks for a new module, plus the headliner to fix every time.
#5
#6
I would try a low cost fix first.
Locate the TPMS module above the headliner. It can be reached from the roof mounted light-A/C control panel at the middle row seats.
Find the connector and pin #12 should be a black wire that is 100-110 mm long. This wire is the ground wire for the module. tap into that wire and add a short piece of wire.
Loosen the inner 10 mm nut that secures the module to the roof, slide the wire (with proper connector) under that nut and re-tighten.
The idea here is the module may be failing form intermitent voltage supply or the 100 mm wire had increased in resistance (think corrosion). and causing this problem.
This may not fix your your issue as the module may be on the way out, but it is a cheap diagnostic test to help figure out what is wrong.
Hope this helps
Jeff
Locate the TPMS module above the headliner. It can be reached from the roof mounted light-A/C control panel at the middle row seats.
Find the connector and pin #12 should be a black wire that is 100-110 mm long. This wire is the ground wire for the module. tap into that wire and add a short piece of wire.
Loosen the inner 10 mm nut that secures the module to the roof, slide the wire (with proper connector) under that nut and re-tighten.
The idea here is the module may be failing form intermitent voltage supply or the 100 mm wire had increased in resistance (think corrosion). and causing this problem.
This may not fix your your issue as the module may be on the way out, but it is a cheap diagnostic test to help figure out what is wrong.
Hope this helps
Jeff
#7
I would try a low cost fix first.
Locate the TPMS module above the headliner. It can be reached from the roof mounted light-A/C control panel at the middle row seats.
Find the connector and pin #12 should be a black wire that is 100-110 mm long. This wire is the ground wire for the module. tap into that wire and add a short piece of wire.
Loosen the inner 10 mm nut that secures the module to the roof, slide the wire (with proper connector) under that nut and re-tighten.
The idea here is the module may be failing form intermitent voltage supply or the 100 mm wire had increased in resistance (think corrosion). and causing this problem.
This may not fix your your issue as the module may be on the way out, but it is a cheap diagnostic test to help figure out what is wrong.
Hope this helps
Jeff
Locate the TPMS module above the headliner. It can be reached from the roof mounted light-A/C control panel at the middle row seats.
Find the connector and pin #12 should be a black wire that is 100-110 mm long. This wire is the ground wire for the module. tap into that wire and add a short piece of wire.
Loosen the inner 10 mm nut that secures the module to the roof, slide the wire (with proper connector) under that nut and re-tighten.
The idea here is the module may be failing form intermitent voltage supply or the 100 mm wire had increased in resistance (think corrosion). and causing this problem.
This may not fix your your issue as the module may be on the way out, but it is a cheap diagnostic test to help figure out what is wrong.
Hope this helps
Jeff
I see the module attached in the roof with two 8 mm bolts , then 2 plugs one green and one blue plugged in. Next to the module there is one cable, it looks like a ground cable because is attached to the metal roof with a screw. Probably the one you are talking about is that, but it looked rubber isolated like any wire.
Anyway, I tried 2 second hand modules, one from a LR3 (amber light blinking as hell) and a second one coming from a Range Rover (same module code), the latter gave me a flash amber light randomly every few minutes.
Now, having tested 2 modules and having had 2 different results, should I blame the modules or my car?
#8
In case I will disable it, using the Gap Tool, if I change the battery, does the car keep the new configuration or I must write it again?
#9
Are all of the TPMS antennas
(little oval pickup units) still connected properly to the inner fender cover in the proper place? If so, try disconnecting and cleaning the connectors and reassemble. I have seen them come loose and slip down and stop working some times. This is more likely in the front than the back as they have more room to move around after coming loose.
And since it is an LR3 one must always consider a wiring issue.
(little oval pickup units) still connected properly to the inner fender cover in the proper place? If so, try disconnecting and cleaning the connectors and reassemble. I have seen them come loose and slip down and stop working some times. This is more likely in the front than the back as they have more room to move around after coming loose.
And since it is an LR3 one must always consider a wiring issue.
#10
Are all of the TPMS antennas
(little oval pickup units) still connected properly to the inner fender cover in the proper place? If so, try disconnecting and cleaning the connectors and reassemble. I have seen them come loose and slip down and stop working some times. This is more likely in the front than the back as they have more room to move around after coming loose.
And since it is an LR3 one must always consider a wiring issue.
(little oval pickup units) still connected properly to the inner fender cover in the proper place? If so, try disconnecting and cleaning the connectors and reassemble. I have seen them come loose and slip down and stop working some times. This is more likely in the front than the back as they have more room to move around after coming loose.
And since it is an LR3 one must always consider a wiring issue.