Hi! Looking for some education. 🤣 I know a very limited amount of information re: fixing automobile mechanical issues. Most of my adult life I’ve driven company owned fleet cars with built in maintenance programs and max mileage switch out. I’ve always wanted a Land Rover and finally purchased one to have my own car. I ended up with a 2006 LR3 basic model. When I purchased the car, the previous owner took it in to LR for a cost estimate re: the necessary repairs needed to pass smog. I needed replacement fuel level sensor and oxygen sensor. For me the only noticeable issue affecting the car prior to replacement was a fuel gage stuck at empty. I tried my best to mark down gallons in and miles driven while waiting to get car in for repair. Filling the tank with gas gave me zero issue at that point. However, on one occasion when I neglected to document exact miles driven, I worried I’d run out of fuel before making it to the station. I had a canister of gas (red plastic) with 1/2 to 1 gallon left over from using my power washer. I figured, better safe than sorry, and added that volume to the gas tank. I had trouble pulling the neck of the fuel canister back out of the LR3 fuel intake hole. It felt stuck. I pulled a little harder and it came out. I noticed these little plastic rings on the end and couldn’t remember id I’d noticed them on gas canister before and worry that maybe I yanked something from the car. I set them aside just incase...but they seemed so small and random, I convinced myself it was something from the canister. I can’t remember exactly, but it seems like almost right after that I started having issues filling my gas tank, and went though many of the steps I’ve read through suggested In this forum’s corresponding threads. By this time my sensor work has been done and I eventually just adjusted to issue And any expectation of a quick stop to fuel up.
BUT I’m moving and will be driving my LR3 cross country in a few weeks. The thought of having to fill my tank that slowly every few hours sent me back to the auto shop asking for a diagnosis. They’ve gotten back to me with a $1600 estimate for a new fuel tank.
Explained the fuel tank I have has had a recall at some point but that my LR3 falls outside the eligibility criteria for replacement. I didn’t understand the full “mechanical speak” but I think the summary was an issue with sealing or sealant? I started looking on-line to see if I could purchase a used tank or parts to significantly lower that estimate, and stumbled onto some pictures of parts that look a whole lot like those little plastic rings I’d tucked away. The picture provided didn’t give me an understanding of the size gage of the parts shown. They were close up to show detail, but I have no idea if they are pea size or orange size! I’ve been trying to find more informational descriptions and diagrams (ones I can understand!) re: the full fuel system b/c it was only once I noticed those photos with the O rings (?), I thought back to exactly when the issue started and I’m definite that prior to my fuel canister getting “stuck” in the car’s fuel neck (?) I had no issues with fuel pumps giving me kick back, or the fuel overflowing when pump used at anting but a trickle. Is it possible that these rings have caused the issue? Is it possible I could just need a new upper fuel neck? Mechanic explained replacement would be with a fuel tank model built and manufactured to avoid the sealing issues (?), and that replacement wasn’t a necessity prior to my long drive but that I’d most likely need it done eventually. I just haven't learned enough yet to know if that’s accurate, to know if a 1600$ estimate for a new fuel take is normal, to know what that replacement usually includes. (When sensors work was done a fuel something (can’t remember name) just crumbled while instal of new sensors and he gave me a call to inform me & provide updated costs including new part. (Was a necessity).
Any guidance sent my way is appreciated! With the expense of a move cross country and all it involves, I’m not sure I can spare the estimated fuel tank replacement costs.....but also REALLY don’t want my fuel filling time to add on 3 days to my journey. Any thoughts or trouble shooting ideas I can take back to my auto shop and suggest we take a look at first, even if just to rule the possibility out. will provides me a better understanding of why a full replacement was suggested.

Thank you SO much. Ive found the community of Rover owners to be so welcoming and helpful...and patient with us “newbies”.

These are the plastic rings that possibly got pulled from tank?
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haha, thats ironic...I'll be driving my LR3 cross country for a move too, but I'm going to Las Vegas instead.

As for your questions, to me $1600 sounds like robbery. Quick search and a brand new tank from a LR parts dealer is $750. Not cheap, but Id be shocked if its $900 worth of labor to swap one out, and as long as it isnt leaking I'd think a used tank would be ok.

For the technical parts about the rings, hopefully Abran sees this and chimes in.

 

I seem to have an issue loading images on the forum, so I guess I can't comment.

First there was a recall and you would be better to check with Rover directly to see if it was done and if they will still cover doing the recall. Recalls dont expire. But if the replacement parts are no longer made, then they dont have to do it. So there is a reasonable expectation to have the work done within an unspecified period after announcement.

As for parts in the filler neck, I will pull up diagrams. I will also post the tank recall in a bit.

 

So I could not really see any bit onto diagrams that could have been pulled out.

You may be able to see if you have any open recalls here. Not sure how accurate, mine did come back as zero.
https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/vinLookup

Here is the tank recall:

 

Thank you, it’s a place to start! 😀

 

One of the threads mentioned the problem may be caused by a blocked valve. Return valve? Could some tell me which valve it is in this diagram (and correct name!)? Thank you!


Here

 

This diagrAm

 

I dont think there is a return valve, but there is probably a check valve. A check valve opens when running providing fuel but once fuel pump is off it closes from back pressure. This helps keep fuel pressure up wheel the vehicle is off making starting easy. Assuming the system has one (very likely) it may be integrated into the pump itself, thats where is been on the other vehicles I owned. But if that fails, it causes operating issues not filling issues.

The only thing I can think is that something did come off your fuel can and its stuck in the neck. Its really the only explanation I can think of. While my diagrams do not show a strainer, its even possible there is one at the tank inlet or in the filler neck assembly.

If I suspected such an issues, I would operate until fuel is at a minimum and take it to a shop where they can disconnect the filler neck at the tank then run something through it to feel for a blockage. Or if they have a video scope, better yet.

 

Great idea!

 

Don't like to be the guy doing a thread revival, but this one kept coming up on my web searches. Had a similar problem on my 05 LR3, didn't matter the station, I couldn't get more than 1/2 a gallon at a time before the pump would shut off. Ended up replacing the Evap canister (re-used original valve assembly)... no more problems filling up. $260 for the OEM part, paid $60 to a mobile mechanic I know who knocked it out in an hour.