Hey Guys, so my front tires were balding on the outside. Mechanic said the tires were toe in. Alignment fixed for now. But he said my tie rods are shot and my upper control arm bushings are bad on both front and one rear control arm. I think he also mentioned the ball joints are going too. If I'm going to get the work done, I'd like to knock out as much as possible. Do I get new tie rods, bushings and ball joints? Do I get new control arms as well? and while I'm getting the work done, should I replace bottom control arm bushings as well?

When I mentioned just buying the bushings, the mechanic said that usually you need to replace the whole arm, though I could be wrong (it was in a different language and we were using terms I dont usually know).

the truck is a 2006 SE with 160000km. I bought it a year ago and have been repairing various things. I assume the current control arms are original, I could be wrong. He didn't mention the control arms looking bad.

thoughts?

 

If tie rods are shot, an alignment is not possible.

The front upper bushings could be bad, but usually the front lowers and rear upper arms are the worst. And frankly, best to replace it all which is not cheap. You can do the individual bushings, but it is not super DIY and you need a press. A large press. So buying complete arms, which also include ball joints, it the quickest way to get it all done.

 

He specifically said that there’s too much play in the tie rods, (I think on the inner side?)

yes, I think I’m going to replace all Control arms at once. Definitely not cheap. I’m looking at the front control arm kit on Atlantic British. I don’t see a rear control arm kit, so I’ll do ala carte.

While I’m getting the control arms done, is there anything else I should be looking at getting done at the same time?

 

If you replace tie rods, just do not inner/outer on both sides. The outer ones are smaller with a ball joint in them, they can go on either side. The inners are side specific with different threads. Outers are year dependent, make sure you buy the correct ones as those made for 2009+ will probably not work - if memory serves.

If you do not plan on having the vehicle long, go with cheap aftermarket stuff. If you plan to keep it for a while, go with OEM or OE - Meaning either go with LR branded stuff were you pay a lot for the fancy LR decals and stamps, or go OE which means you are buying the stuff that was made for LR but lacks the expensive LR stickers and such. I went OE. The parts that came had the LR logos scratched off the bushings, so the part is identical to dealer stuff at a MUCH lower price. Aftermarket stuff is not always the best quality. For those brands I would only go with MEVOTECH supreme.. But people have had luck with Meyle HD stuff. Going quality is even more critical if you off-road at all.

Keep in mind if you do all these, you will need associated hardware because all too often the hardware, bolts and such, are cut off to remove the old stuff. I have done a couple front end and rear end total rebuilds. It is advanced DIY but you can still do it with fairly basic tools. You need 18mm, 21mm, 24mm wrenches as well as axel nut sockets of 30 and/32/36mm (I forget which two off hand, the axel nut was updated at some point and changed size). You need deep sockets, not so deep, etc.

Here is a parts list for front end, ignore pricing and some notes, these are lists I make for myself. But will give you an idea of what can all be needed for a total rebuild.

FRONT END REBUILD PROJECT:

Knuckle (for the fronts, these are not really required replacements)
RUB000224 right
RUB000234 left
The above may be hard to find, a production change was made. You do need specific tie-rod ends depending on which knuckle is installed. Below are the updated versions used from mid-2009 and up.
RUB500260 right
RUB500270 left

Hub/bearing assembly:
LR076692 bearing x2 (same for each side)
FC112146 bearing to knuckle bolts x4

Axel nut (maybe buy both styles):
RFD500020 x2 (thread = m24x1.5)
LR024151 x2 (thread = M24x2.0)

Splash/dust shield:
SEC000162 right
SEC000172 left
SYP500020 M6x10mm torx head screw for shield to knuckle (x10 quantity for both sides)
^^^^ The above is a complete knuckle setup

Sway Bar/link:
LR015339 sway bar bushings x2 (same for each side)
LR014145 sway bar link x2 (same for each side)

Upper control arm (complete with ball joint and bushings):
RBJ500222 right
RBJ500232 left

Lower control arm:
LR075993 right - Mevotech w/Lemforder Ball Joints installed
LR075995 left - Mevotech w/Lemforder Ball Joints installed
SPORT:
LR029304 right
LR029306 left

Brake hose (soft line):
LR052215/LR058048 right
LR052214/LR058049 left

Caliper bolt (caliper to knuckle)
SYG500050 x4

ABS sensor:
SSB500092 right
SSB500092 left


SUB PARTS LIST FOR STEERING:

QFW500010 - Tie Rod Boot kits, $10 each need 2 TRW = $20
QFK500020 - Passenger inner
QFK500010 - Driver inner
LR010671 - Outer up to MY 2009 (same for each side)



LR010669 Driver side TRW kit - inner/outer/boot = $45
LR010670 Passenger side " " $43

If you buy both kits, TRW brand = $90

END SUB PARTS LIST FOR STEERING


Bolts can usually be obtained via kits, but here is a bolt break down for ONE side, double up for both sides.

Upper arm hardware:
RYG000420 bolt at frame x2 (bought on eBay)
FY114056 nut at frame x2
FY112056 ball joint nut x1

Lower arm hardware:
RDI000034 bolt at frame x2
RYF000203 camber washer at frame x2
WA116106 regular washer at frame x2
FX116056 nut at frame x2
FX116056 nut at ball joint x1
FX116056 nut at strut x1
RYG000440 bolt at strut x1
REAR END REBUILD PROJECT:
Rear knuckles:

LR045822/RLH500020 right $222 from LR Tampa OEM - LR Direct $216
LR045823/RLH500030 left $222 from LR Tampa OEM - LR Direct $216

NOTE: While new knuckles are not required, they come with new rose joints pressed in and will have a clean surface for new wheel bearings. If you are NOT buying new knuckles, you need the following:

RHF500100 upper rose/ball joint x2

LR032644 lower rose/ball joint x2

RYV000010 lower rose/ball joint retainer x2

SKZ500012 knuckle clip x2



Rear Hub/spindle:

RUC500120 x2 (same for each side) - LR Direct non-em is $30 each



Rear wheel bearing snap ring:

RLG000010 X2 (same for each side)



Rear wheel bearing:

LR045917 x2 (same for each side) TIMKEN 516013 is $65 each from RockAuto



Axel nut (maybe buy both styles):

RFD500020 x2 (thread = m24x1.5) ($10 each)

LR024151 x2, (thread = M24x2.0) ($10 each)



Dust shields (not really needed):

LR048810 right $100 for OEM - $80 each from LR Direct

LR048812 left $100 for OEM - $80 each from LR Direct OEM or $30 for Bearmach

SYP500020 M6x10mm torx head screw for shield to knuckle (x10 quantity for both sides, you can also just source stainless from Amazon instead)





^^^^^^ The above is a complete knuckle setup as a unit, quantities are for doing both sides



Sway bar and end link:

LR015336 sway bar bushing x2 (same for each side)

RGD000312 link x2 (same for each side)



Lower control arm:

LR051592 right $188 from LR Tampa OEM - LR Direct is $96

LR051594 left $179 from LR Tampa OEM - LR Direct is $96





Upper control arm:

LR051622 right $171 from LR Tampa OEM - LR Direct is $87

LR051623 left $163 from LR Tampa OWM - LR Direct is $87

SPORT:

LR063719 right $101 from LR Direct

LR063718 left $101 from LR Direct



Lateral link / tie-rod arm:

LR019117 x2 (same for both sides)

RYH500116 nut at frame x2

RYG501580 bolt w/washer at knuckle x2



ABS sensor:

SSB500102 right

SSB500102 left



Caliper bolt (caliper to knuckle):

SYG000013 x4 (two for each caliper)



Brake hose:

LR058010 inner soft x2 both sides same part, one needed per side (ordered from Rock)

LR058009 soft outer x2 both sides same part, one needed per side (ordered from Rock)

LR021678 - left metal coated brake line (between soft lines)

LR021679 - right metal coated brake line (between soft lines)

REAR END HARDWARE:

HARDWARE FOR ONE SIDE ONLY, DOUBLE UP FOR DOING BOTH SIDES:

RYG000384 camber bolt at upper joint $6.53

RYH500191 nut at upper joint $5.73

*FC116216 bolt at frame $4.77

RYH501060 captive nut at frame $3.87

FC114206 bolt at frame $2.07

RYH500280 captive nut at frame $2.41

RYF000182 camber washer at upper joint (not labeled on chart, but shown)


Lower arm hardware:




FX116056 nut @ lower joint/strut/frame bolt x3

KYG000240 bolt at frame

RYG000461 bolt at strut

*FC116216 bolt at joint

Above bolt goes with the three nuts in first line

RYH500052 captive nut

KYG500270 bolt at frame (goes with captive nut)

* indicates used elsewhere



Additional small bolts and hardware, such as brackets:



BOLT FOR BRAKE LINE AT FRONT UPPER ARM FS108146

EVAP PLASTIC SUPPORT WFU500020

REAR TOW COVER PLASTIC SCREWS DYR500010

SSU500050 - Bracket for ABS wire at rear knuckle x1 per side.

EJP7813 - brake hose retainer clip to lower control arm and other various areas, order a dozen.

FS106126 - Small M6 x 12mm bolt for securing ABS sensor to knuckle, for ABS sensor wire bracket at rear knuckle, ABS sensor to front knuckle - in fact, these are used in numerous places. Flared nut style. Suggest sourcing stainless instead. (Ordered stainless from Amazon)

 

hey thank you for taking the time to put together that exhaustive, intimidating list. I appreciate it. I’ll start pricing it out later today. Definitely going with OE, where I can.

One question: in the quote above you mentioned “just do not inner/outer on both sides”. I assume this is a typo. What did you mean?

 

Yes, typo. Doth both sides, inner and outer. Then you are good to go for a long time. With tie-rods you can generally go with various brands like TRW, etc. No need for OEM. Delphi can often be a good affordable choice and they are OEM for many makers.

 

Hey guys

so I’m replacing the tie rods both sides inner and outer. And all the control arms, top and bottom, front and back

i’m not going to do the work. I have a mechanic who can do it (foreign country, pretty good labor prices here for good wrenches). I’m still waiting on parts but I’m going to discuss the overhaul with him soon.

What should I be discussing with him?

- disable suspension
- change out pieces (any advice)
- reset suspension height (?)
- balance and alignment (?)

 

There's generally no need to disable the suspension or do a calibration when replacing control arms. Just disconnect the battery while doing the work so it doesn't try to adjust itself while lifted.
You will for sure need an alignment, done with the suspension in tight tolerance mode and set at normal ride height. Make sure the steering wheel is exactly centered during the alignment, and do a steering angle position relearn afterwards.

 

Thanks so much for the advice, I appreciate it. Just googled both tight suspension mode and steering angle calibration. Awesome. Thanks for your time.

 

ideally you deflate the suspension then disable it. Deflation helps being able to compress the struts and disabling will prevent the system from attempting to adjust while working on it. In some ways though you can lift the rig and the truck may try to deflate the bags on its own as it wants to bring the wheels back into position - in this case, upwards. You will certainly need a calibration when replacing the suspension bits, mainly because of the upper arms which have a attachment point for the height sensor - this warning, abut needing a calibration, is outlined in the shop manual also. So once the work is done, the truck may sit a little differently which is okay - just recalibrate to spec a couple times and you are good to go.

The biggest issues in swapping will be front lower arms and rear uppers which typically have to have the bolts sawed off *** they end up fused within the bushing core. This is why buying all new mounting hardware is recommenced. The front uppers are usually never an issue - just hard to get to since you have to work from below and the engine bay. The rear uppers can be a pain to get into also but not the worst. One thing some people do is to simply cuts the lower arms themselves close to the mounting bolts that need to be cut. Then the bulky hardware is out of the way. Spelling of which, when I did mine I removed them as an entire unit. Meaning I undid the front uppers at the body and the lowers at the frame. Remove the tie rods. Then pulled the whole thing out as a unit to remove the knuckle. But if one is NOT replacing the lower ball joint on the front knuckles, care must be taken as over extending the components can pinch the lower ball joint boot and thus expose it to water, dirt. The rears I used the same method to remove, one whole assembly.