using oil extraction pump for oil change
Camel Trophy
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,247
Likes: 482
From: North of Seattle
Thanks for the feedback, Techniker. I don't remember if I'm full synthetic or blend, but my oil change interval is 3750 miles because I off-road the hell out of my LR3! 
...and because a lot of my driving when I'm not on trips, unfortunately, is short (like <5 minutes).
...and because a lot of my driving when I'm not on trips, unfortunately, is short (like <5 minutes).
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 11
From: mini soda
Its also no secret, that some amount of debris can be expected. Usually very fine and very minimal, but over a period of time, it collects in the sump. I have yet to be convinced that sucking the oil out from the top, does as good as job as letting it drain out of the bottom.
NOTE: Engine oil should not be removed by suction as particles of dirt may
remain in the oil pan.
Glad you pointed that out. I will look through POSES and find that document so I can print it out for the next time this conversation comes up at the shop.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 153
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Suck it Up replaces Go Beyond
I presume that was the LR "engineering" view regarding the sealed for life ZF transmission; it probably remains so given their new production is mostly no drain plug - a Suck it Up reflection of the future.
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 48
From: La Jolla, California
oil extractor question answered, won't work
well guys and gals, I decided to try out the oil extractor yesterday. Got the oil, filter and the pump, had the containers ready, some paper towels and a wrench for the front cover. Inserted the pump tube, turned it on, it was an electric model, and bam. for 2 plus quarts it was amazing, then it started slurping......it turns out that the LR3 oil pan is designed in a way that there is a large sump where the drain plug is. It is not possible to get the extractor tube down as far as needed to get all of the oil out. In the end, I was only able to pull about 2 and 1/2 quarts, maybe 3 from the dipstick tube. I ended up dropping the skid plate and did the traditional oil change. One word of caution, the oil comes flying out once you remove the drain plug. It shot about a foot or more farther than I anticipated, consequently, I had a mess to clean up......other than that, the oil change was relatively painless, the skid plate came off pretty easily, the bolts were a bit tight, I dipped them all in some of the old oil to keep them from rusting. Hope that this helps, If anyone has had different results, please share. One last thing, with the suspension in the off-road mode, ample access is allowed under the vehicle, do use stand, just in case of a suspension failure, I left the door open, that seems to help lock the suspension from unexpected drops. This is a great forum, thanks to all of you that contribute. Phil
2005 LR3 Tonga Green 88k miles
2005 LR3 Tonga Green 88k miles
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 153
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
frame jacks definitely required
I wondered if a longer suction hose would get you to the bottom of the sump. I assume you have the AJV8 which Land Rover modified to include a deeper sump than on the Jaguars to accommodate the odd occasion when one operates one's 3 at odd angles off road.
The link below is to a pdf showing suitable frame support points for locating frame jacks when working under the vehicle.
The theory about a door being open inhibiting the vehicle dropping assumes the electronic systems within the 3 have perfect reliability and never act in temperamental manner.
My 2005, at best, seems a bit female at times, plus I have no spare hands. I got my warning one day when as I walked away from my 3, there was a hiss and my 3 just dropped to the stops - took maybe two seconds and fortunately the open doors and tailgate door did not hook on anything as it dropped the two inches or so.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...ing_Points.pdf
Yes, your discovery of how far the oil shoots out of the sump is not unique. The oil shoots even further when the sump is full.
Thanks for the post.
The link below is to a pdf showing suitable frame support points for locating frame jacks when working under the vehicle.
The theory about a door being open inhibiting the vehicle dropping assumes the electronic systems within the 3 have perfect reliability and never act in temperamental manner.
My 2005, at best, seems a bit female at times, plus I have no spare hands. I got my warning one day when as I walked away from my 3, there was a hiss and my 3 just dropped to the stops - took maybe two seconds and fortunately the open doors and tailgate door did not hook on anything as it dropped the two inches or so.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...ing_Points.pdf
Yes, your discovery of how far the oil shoots out of the sump is not unique. The oil shoots even further when the sump is full.
Thanks for the post.
I use cardboard and wedge it around the frame to keep it from splashing and collecting inside the undercarriage. Customers do not like when these leave oil spots in the driveway after an oil change, so I do all I can to re-direct and contain the oil.
Winching
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 614
Likes: 29
Again reviving an old thread with a purpose....
I used a Fumoto oil pan drain valve on my Merc E300D and it worked a treat. Seems it would make sense to install on our vehicles, especially considering the cost of a new pan. Nice new feature I see they added is a 'nipple' to attach a drain hose to better direct the oil to where you want it.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/...&modelId=30958
I used a Fumoto oil pan drain valve on my Merc E300D and it worked a treat. Seems it would make sense to install on our vehicles, especially considering the cost of a new pan. Nice new feature I see they added is a 'nipple' to attach a drain hose to better direct the oil to where you want it.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/...&modelId=30958