I've noticed that on some modules, but other did change.

 

Bruce,
171 and 174 ,both lean codes, could mead many things.
You could have air leak somewhere, such as air intake hoses, chamber clamps loose, leading from air filter to throttle body, ;lose air filter cover, loose oil cap or as simple as oil dipstick not pushed in all the way, creating vacuum leak.I actually had the latter.
MAF sensor on ours usually throws po 101 and such.

 

I will check the dipstick - should be OK but ....; also the oil cover.

That I find interesting however - again the little things.

Gad, these engines are getting to be sealed systems. I long ago figured the days of driving with no radiator cap were over. So that was a reason for getting rid of the dipstick on the D4's it seems - lucky they left an oil fill opening given the current sealed for life philosophy.

I did note that the dipstick was more like a cork at the top and the oil fill cap more like a gas cap, but I never actually thought about why.

I recall when an oil dip stick was just a flimsy rod with a loose cup near the top and the oil filler cap was a rag stuffed in the hole.

I appreciate the comment re the typical MAF codes so maybe that is not the problem - an air leak sounds very possible.

 

I checked the oil dip stick and it is tight as well as the oil fill cap - no rag anyway.

I then looked at the air cleaner filter housing and what I saw did not make me happy. Per the jpg's, I doubt it has anything to do with the light going on and I do not regard just downstream of the air filter element as vacuum territory but.....

Anyway, I assume at my last dealer oil change, someone ignored my message that I change the air filter and it is OK, and instead took a peak. I say "took a peak" as I assume the way to do that is just unscrew the air filter housing screws and prior to tipping up the lid loosen the two screw type hose clamps.

Anyway, the rubber collar seal closest the air filter is now back in place and the hose clamps are both tight - yes the both hose clamps were loose as well.

I assume I should be annoyed with myself as I only lift the bonnet after an oil change to see if the dip stick is still there and the oil cap not replaced with a rag. The fact I made it back home I regard as an indication that the new drain plug I was billed for was threaded in.

 

Bruce, the MAF sensor wires look twisted in picture 1. Probably not an issue, but it could be putting additional strain on the wiring and connectors. If you disconnected the connecter, gave it a clockwise twist, and reconnected, it would make me feel better.

 

That does matter and yes, I will untangle the mess.

I was looking at it earlier and did not pick up on the twisting but for some reason, I did not like what seemed like a tightness in the cable - there did not seem to be any slack and with the cold weather coming, things tend to tighten up and get brittle, so a bit of slack is a good thing and needed.

Rather than unplug it, I think I will first just remove the air cleaner cover and spin it - I think that is how it got twisted in the first place.

Thanks for noting that - for the most part, over the years, the dealer has done more good than harm but this little stuff is getting to me and does matter.

Tomorrow the outside air temperature is supposed to warm up to 0 degrees C; today was a bit cooler and I dislike playing with wires when they are cold. Zero is good however, so will do it after I have heated up the engine compartment with a bit of a run.

Thanks for the post.

 

Well at least my personal bespoke service department can react quickly to problems once brought to their attention.

Per the jpg below, the cable to the MAF is now looking much better.

Hell Pie, your post was much appreciated and I am now much happier as well.

... and per your suggestion, I just disconnected the connector and untwisted it. I am also pretty sure I know how it got that way. The dealer shop rate here is $172.00 / hour so one pays a pretty price to have things tangled. Also driving around today, my P / MIL light did not illuminate except at startup.

It is too early to say yet, but maybe that rubber collar not properly fitted was causing the P0171 and P0174 error codes. I also took the opportunity to change out the engine air filter and the carbon pollen filter.

To my concern, the pollen filter appeared much dirtier than the engine air filter. Both were previously changed at the same time, 20,000 km, (12,500 miles), ago. Now I wonder ...

So now back to the interesting question - is there some software fix to get the amber P light on the Speedometer to stop acting like the MIL light on the Tachometer plus I wonder if the MIL light is now the amber P light?

I want to keep the Clock on the Dash feature and I expect it was that software flash that made the change in the MIL light operation. As such I suppose the fix will have to be something to do with the Instrument Panel software.

 

Your suspicion is correct:it sounds like you have a 2005 or 2006 instrument panel cluster (IPC) with 2007+ firmware. The 2007+ cluster changed out the red Fuel Burning Heater (FBH) LED for green and the overlay icon was changed to the headlamps on icon. Another change is that the MIL was moved to where the amber (P) was and the overlay icon changed from (P) to an engine. The newer firmware changes the functions of the lamps in those locations to support the hardware changes.

I didn't initially update my IPC firmware to get the clock on dash feature because I didn't like the idea of a red light on my dash to indicate headlights on. Call me old-school, but to me a red light on my instrument panel is a sign of a serious problem and training myself to ignore a red light there strikes me as a bad idea. I also thought it was risky to have the check engine / MIL masquerading as a parking brake light since I let friends and family drive the vehicle.

The Gap IID Tool was updated recently to allow uploading a special version of the firmware to the IPC of pre-2007 vehicles. This puts the clock on the instrument panel without altering the behavior of the indicator lamps. The tool isn't cheap but if you plan on doing work on your vehicle or if you want some extra security when off-roading it may be worthwhile.

-Rob

 

I was wondering what the IPC was - now I know, so thank you.

Yes, I have a 2005 LR3 so that is where the problem starts it would appear.

Thank you for the explanation. I knew about the FBH red light becoming the headlights on indicator but I did not know about the change in the MIL light locations.

In the last few months, I did sort of notice the short illumination of the amber P at startup but chose to ignore it as I just figured that I had not noticed it in the past years. I tend not to get too exited about dash lights illuminating any longer and regard them as part of the LR mystique.

Regarding the illuminated FBH light, in the eight months of winter, it is dark and cold here all the time so anything red I regard with a warm feeling. In the four spring and summer months, we have almost no darkness, hence the headlights are never on - well the DRL are but that does not illuminate the FBH light.

I gather that now on newer production vehicles, LR does not have two trouble indicators for the Park Brake. The two indicators kind of had me puzzled as well since some of the indicator lights change colours depending upon the fault so I could not figure out why a red one and an amber one - I guess LR later thought about that as well. Then again, with so many engines and world model modifications, sometimes there are inconsistencies. Also never before had I seen that amber one illuminate and my owners manual shows the USA dash with the words PARK BRAKE rather than the P symbol so I just did not know.

I must complement GAP is getting ahead of the curve so to speak. I did not even know of the problem and GAP has it already solved. Regarding tools, I have the Evolution and I do not think they yet have software to resolve the problem, or perhaps are not even aware of it as it may just be a petrol North American issue.

 

what is the red car with the 3 things coming up from the bottom mean
on the left near the word time