Hello, all. New to the forum as I just purchased a 2016 LR4 that almost immediately had timing chain issues. I can use some help or advice before going much further here so I am not wasting money or spinning my wheels. I purchased all the necessary tools and a timing chain kit to do the job and thought I had installed the timing chains correctly. The cams and crank were locked in place and I made sure the timing chains were on the sprocket timing marks. After putting it all back together the engine still ran rough and am now getting a P0019 code along with the misfire codes and a p1315 which seems to be a malfunction in the ignition system on cylinder 4. P0444 also came up which is the evaporator purge system. I plan to get a scan tool that can show live data this evening so I can dig deeper. However, it would seem to me that the timing issue continues even after the new chain install. Has anybody else had this experience? Any advice on which direction to head? I greatly appreciate the help!

 

P0019 is for the cam sensor bank 2 sensor b correlation. Before jumping to an issue inside the engine I would swap that sensor with one of the other cam sensors and see if the code moves. Hopefully during the work the cam sensor took a knock and is messed up. If the code moves it is the sensor, if the code returns for the same location with a different sensor there then there could be an issue with the timing. Did you hold the VVT gear as instructed?

 

Right on, I will give that a try, Regarding the cam gear. I did torque the cam gears during install. I brought the intake cam on the drivers side to 25ft lbs and the exhaust in the pass side to the same torque value before tightening the bolts down. Hopefully that was correct as the Rave manual just freezes up when I try to scroll or search so it becomes useless. I had to watch YouTube videos to figure all this out which was informative but still....... I did take it out for a drive this evening (after I felt confident all the air was out of the cooling system) and I noticed when the engine was about 2k to 2500 rpm it ran smooth and the misfires went away. It actually drove well cruising. Engine felt smooth and everything seemed to work as designed. Trans shifted well etc. Back to an idle at a stop sign or into the garage and it ran like crap. Bucking and surging to the point of thinking crap it might not pull into the garage! It is actually fairly "smooth" when the engine is cold on startup but gets rough as the engine warmed up. I will do that sensor idea and get a code scanner with live sensor data. If anybody has suggestions on a scan tool that ones cost an arm and a leg please let me know. Thanks again for the input!!

 

I would certainly get a good scanner, most recommended is the GAP, but the test I gave you can be done with a generic scanner that got the codes in the first place. Just swap the sensors, run it so the check engine light comes on again and then scan it. If you have the same code then it is either the wiring to that sensor or inside the engine, and since you were just inside, well..... If you get a different code post it here and we will see what that code is and if it matches up with where you moved the sensor. Let me know where you move it to. pics would be great to show location.

 

I will get that done this evening, thank you! Im not confident with my info online, is that the exhaust sensor on the drivers side? That is the side the chain popped off so might have done a little more damage than I anticipated. Are the cam phasers pretty tough? I was careful removing them and stored them accordingly and verified their position but are they known to have issues if the chain pops off? Thanks again!!

 

Quick reply, I swapped the cam position sensors and same issue. I did a little more reading and it seems like it might also be a VVT solenoid issue as well. Plan to swap these around this afternoon and see if the code follows. I still am getting the p0019, p0304, 305, and 306 codes. The 305 code is odd since it is on the opposite side but could be an unrelated issue. Since is runs so well at ginger engine speed Im hoping its a sensor issue...the supercharger sounding like crap doesn't help either lol!

 

Made some progress, I think...... I swapped the VVT on the exhaust drivers side to the intake and It ran much better...better idle and good crisp revs, until closed loop. The engine ran smooth and I drove it around thinking I might have fixed it then when CL engaged it ran terrible barely making it home. I did get a scan tool and noticed some off numbers, B1 has high fuel correction and low voltage on the o2 sensor. Also. the IAT between the 2 side is 35 degrees warmer on B2 even though the conditions were the same. Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!.

Rpm 605

Vet speed 0

Spark adv 1.5*

ECT 210 F

IAT 70*

TPS 11%

MAP 16 INHG

MAF . 37 LB/IN

TPS 11%

FUEL SYSTEM CLOSED LOOP

STFT B1 25%

LTFT B1 58.6%

STFT B2 0.0%

LTFT B2 52.3%

O2S B1S2 0.145V

STFT B1S2 99.2%

O2S B1S3 1.275

STFT B1S3 99.2%

O2S B2S2 1.025

STFT B2S2 99.2%

O2S B2S3 1.275

STFT B2S3 99.2%

FUEL PRESS 421PSI

COMM EVAP 0.0%

LAMBDA B1SS1 1.244

O2S B1S1 0.06 MA

LAMBDA B2S1 1.744MA

O2S B2S1 .52MA

CAT TEMP11 901F

CAT TEMP 21 926F

LOAD VALUE 16.1%

EQ RATIO .999

AMBIENT TEMP 55F

LGSO2FT1 0.0

LGSO2FT2 0.0

EOT 207

MAFA .2 LB/MIN

MAFB .17 LB/MIN

ECT1 208F

ECT2 61F

IAT11 70F

IAT12 106F

BP_A_ACT 8.23 PSI

 

Ran a compression test and 160-170 across all cylinders so I am thinking the timing is fine? I haven't tried a leak down test but considering it drives fine then gets a load on it and starts missing and limping around it feels like its a sensor issue of some sort. I am going to try a new O2 sensor this evening. What do you guys think about cam variations? Has anybody had issues with then and if so what were the symptoms? Thanks!

 

One thing else to mention. Drivers side plugs (brand new plugs) were wet and darker with the rear plug being visiably saturated. Pass side plugs looked almost new. I am assuming the drivers O2 is part of the problem.

 

Not a lot of feedback but a lot of views so thought I'd at least keep posting to help folks down the road. Latest update, I drove it around the neighborhood gentle yesterday and you could feel a light miss but no misfire codes and no limping it back home. I really enjoy driving her, it is a very comfortable truck so I am going to keep pushing here. I did decide that maybe the best mode of action would be to break it all back down and pull the heads and have them redone and that will force me to also redo the timing chains. I also ordered new O2 sensors, camshaft position sensors, crank sensor, and new ignition coils. I'd like to find a group that can clean and inspect the injectors if anybody knows a good reliable company that can do that work. I dont want to pull this apart for a 3rd time so I am going to dig deeper and hopefully mitigate any further issues. I will say that even with the repairs I have made it has helped. The ground wire from the battery to the fender did have a slight amount of corrosion on it which surprised me as overall the truck is pretty clean. No rust issues etc. Hopefully we are headed in the right direction here. I plan to post up a video to have the group here verify my timing chain install. I will keep you al posted and please feel free to add any advice or ides you might have . Thanks!