Cooling system and or air con hot air issue??
#11
Went back to the main dealer again before beginning any repairs. The Rover tech's still insisting it's the compressor, despite the rear air working as it should. The specialist's standing by their diagnosis it's the front valve. Since I can't get any straight answers from anyone I know, I'm replacing the compressor, again, as Land Rover says as it's the least difficult and costly choice. IF that doesn't do it, then Land Rover will have been wrong and the specialist will have been correct, sadly.
#13
Went back to main dealer and told them their diagnosis to replace the compressor must have been incorrect as the climate system still didn't work correctly. Based on that, they decided they no longer wanted to repair the climate system.
So, I replaced the expansion valve myself and magically the climate system's now working correctly....
So, I replaced the expansion valve myself and magically the climate system's now working correctly....
#15
Took me about 30 minutes to remove and replace with new valve. Main dealer charges 12 hours labour, I'd be happy to offer at half their rate for anyone who needs this service......
Seriously though, AC's freezing cold and no issues since repair. Still concerned about condenser overheating and overpressurising the compressor when stationary.
Seriously though, AC's freezing cold and no issues since repair. Still concerned about condenser overheating and overpressurising the compressor when stationary.
#16
Early this year I spent enough money with the dealer repairing the AC to buy another vehicle, literally. It was an ugly experience all around and essentially we're mutually done with each other. All new parts included compressor, condenser, dryer, AC lines, evaporator/heater core, expansion block, fan and whatever else makes an AC system do what it's supposed to do's been replaced. Air conditioning's been working flawlessly, like it was new, as it should, at least until about 2 months ago. This's an intermittent issue. Here's what happens, randomly the car ac repair abu dhabi, even at max cooling (LO) will blow warm air. Doesn't matter if ambient temperature's in the 60s F or 90s F, it either blows cold or it blows warm. Some times it happens whilst driving but mostly it happens at a stop or idling. When it does happen, the compressor seems to cycle on and off about every 20-30 seconds AND each time it does, it shudders significantly.
For the record, intermittent blowing warm air was the original reason the AC repair was started last year, first by replacing what was determined a faulty compressor with a new compressor and the new compressor supposedly self destructed and destroyed every component in the AC system, hence the need for EVERYTHING to be replaced. Sometimes I think I can smell a faint burning rubber smell from the AC vent. Another point of interest which may or may not be related is since the repair, there is occasionally a loud screeching grinding noise from the front of the truck, sometimes when stopped, mostly AFTER everthing's been switched off. And finally, when blowing warm or hot air, I've noted ECT has climbed from 201-203 F to as high as 238 F and the cluster temp gauge also rises, though no warnings as of yet.
Without ANY real diagnosis, it's been suggested either it's leaking refrigerant OR the third new compressor's failing. A leak seems unlikely as it works flawlessly sometimes for as long as a week or more.
Thoughts?
For the record, intermittent blowing warm air was the original reason the AC repair was started last year, first by replacing what was determined a faulty compressor with a new compressor and the new compressor supposedly self destructed and destroyed every component in the AC system, hence the need for EVERYTHING to be replaced. Sometimes I think I can smell a faint burning rubber smell from the AC vent. Another point of interest which may or may not be related is since the repair, there is occasionally a loud screeching grinding noise from the front of the truck, sometimes when stopped, mostly AFTER everthing's been switched off. And finally, when blowing warm or hot air, I've noted ECT has climbed from 201-203 F to as high as 238 F and the cluster temp gauge also rises, though no warnings as of yet.
Without ANY real diagnosis, it's been suggested either it's leaking refrigerant OR the third new compressor's failing. A leak seems unlikely as it works flawlessly sometimes for as long as a week or more.
Thoughts?
#17
The AC just went out on my 2006 Mazda3. Hot air coming out of vents when off. AC repair place diagnosed it with 2 major leaks: 2 hoses leaking and compressor. $1600 to repair.. he was very aggressive in making me decide within 20 minutes, but the place was recommended. Am I getting ripped off or does this sound about the right price? Dealer said ballpark without diagnosing for this same description would cost over $2000. Feel sick to my stomach about it all. Appreciate your thoughts on this!
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guy (11-21-2023)
#18
Early this year I spent enough money with the dealer repairing the AC to buy another vehicle, literally. It was an ugly experience all around and essentially we're mutually done with each other. All new parts included compressor, condenser, dryer, AC lines, evaporator/heater core, expansion block, fan and whatever else makes an AC system do what it's supposed to do's been replaced. Air conditioning's been working flawlessly, like it was new, as it should, at least until about 2 months ago. This's an intermittent issue. Here's what happens, randomly the AC repaired from Mobile Truck Repair Services in Coconut Creek, even at max cooling (LO) will blow warm air. Doesn't matter if ambient temperature's in the 60s F or 90s F, it either blows cold or it blows warm. Some times it happens whilst driving but mostly it happens at a stop or idling. When it does happen, the compressor seems to cycle on and off about every 20-30 seconds AND each time it does, it shudders significantly.
For the record, intermittent blowing warm air was the original reason the AC repair was started last year, first by replacing what was determined a faulty compressor with a new compressor and the new compressor supposedly self destructed and destroyed every component in the AC system, hence the need for EVERYTHING to be replaced. Sometimes I think I can smell a faint burning rubber smell from the AC vent. Another point of interest which may or may not be related is since the repair, there is occasionally a loud screeching grinding noise from the front of the truck, sometimes when stopped, mostly AFTER everthing's been switched off. And finally, when blowing warm or hot air, I've noted ECT has climbed from 201-203 F to as high as 238 F and the cluster temp gauge also rises, though no warnings as of yet.
Without ANY real diagnosis, it's been suggested either it's leaking refrigerant OR the third new compressor's failing. A leak seems unlikely as it works flawlessly sometimes for as long as a week or more.
Thoughts?
For the record, intermittent blowing warm air was the original reason the AC repair was started last year, first by replacing what was determined a faulty compressor with a new compressor and the new compressor supposedly self destructed and destroyed every component in the AC system, hence the need for EVERYTHING to be replaced. Sometimes I think I can smell a faint burning rubber smell from the AC vent. Another point of interest which may or may not be related is since the repair, there is occasionally a loud screeching grinding noise from the front of the truck, sometimes when stopped, mostly AFTER everthing's been switched off. And finally, when blowing warm or hot air, I've noted ECT has climbed from 201-203 F to as high as 238 F and the cluster temp gauge also rises, though no warnings as of yet.
Without ANY real diagnosis, it's been suggested either it's leaking refrigerant OR the third new compressor's failing. A leak seems unlikely as it works flawlessly sometimes for as long as a week or more.
Thoughts?
#19
So about 3-4 years ago, I started noticing the AC wasn't cooling as well as it should. I put a can of refrigerant in to finish the summer out and that seemed to last until midway through the following summer. I had the car into the dealership to fix something else and I asked them to find and fix the leak. When I picked the car up, I got a chance to talk to the tech about it and he said he could not find a leak anywhere. He then went on to say that it was likely in the evaporator under the dash and it was a huge job to repair or replace that. At the time I think he was quoting $1,200 for the evaporator and $800+ for the labor check This website. So he recharged it instead and said I should be good for a while. Here I am again sweating bullets- any advice on which route to go? I'm inclined to get it fixed since parts aren't getting any easier to find these days, but I'm also wondering if a recharge can with the stop leak in it might be just fine. I'm not usually a fan of stop-leak-like products, but I've been wrong before.
#20
do not use any products with stop leak. Anywhere they find moisture in the system like in the accumulator, receiver dryer or around leaks it will solidify. You will the have to replace multiple expensive components. Replacing the evaporator is hugely labor intensive but can be done they are probably correct that the leak is there. I would probably cocntinue to re charge the unit when it becomes inefficient for a while anyhow. refrigerant is pretty cheap. just do not over charge it either.
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guy (06-27-2024)
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