My 2011 LR4 with 145K miles has been stored, locked, in my barn for a couple months, with a battery tender connected.

I tried to open the car and neither key fob, both with fresh batteries, had any effect. Once in the vehicle with the metal key, the security system acted erratically and the key fob not recognized warning was all I received for the next two hours, as I charged the current battery fully, then installed a fresh main battery, rebooted several times by disconnecting the battery and investigated a bit for water corrosion damage (I found none). Nothing helped.

My next thought is a mouse chewed a wire maybe? Though I found no evidence of their presence, as my wife filled the vehicle with moth ***** to drive them off.

I am NOT near a dealer. Any suggestions as to the next step?

Thanks!

 

Did you try holding the keyfob under the steering column? I believe there is supposed to be some kind of near-field communication that will recognize the keyfob without relying on the wireless antenna system. If you haven’t tried that, I would try it first.

If that doesn’t work, see if you can find the fuses for the immobilizer unit (on my 2016 it is fuse 61P) and the keyless antenna module (on my 2016 it is fuse 37P).

The other thing to do is try to scan for any codes. Some codes, once set, will not allow systems to work until cleared. I’m just wondering if there is some code relating to the security system or battery monitoring system that is giving a problem.

I think the next thing to check would be any other relevant fuses. If you have a ohmmeter with needle probes handy, you can get through them pretty quickly by probing the topside ports without even removing, but you might pull any that look most relevant to see if the contacts are okay as well.

Otherwise, you might be on the right track with rodent damage. There is a thick bundle of wires behind the main battery box, which feeds directly into the central junction box under the dash. I’d say that’s the main vulnerability to rodent damage. You’ll need to pull out some of the battery box or maybe the inner fender well to see down there.

 

Thanks for your reply.

The key fob held under the column made no difference.

I see in the fuse box list the 61P (10 A) and 37P (20A)candidates, also fuse 17 (5) is called out as keyless entry and central door locking (both of which are not working), so when I get back to the farm I will pull those three and see how they look. I will also download the fault codes and check.

The immobilizer appears to be what is under the steering column, yes ---- I suppose this is what the key fob is trying to contact under the steering column, without the need of the antenna or receiver?

I also see in the system parts list the receiver (attached to the bottom of the roof near the ear of the sunroof?) -- what does this do??) ; , the antenna (in one or more doors, I suppose(?),; and the Keyless Vehicle (KVM) control module (maybe on the back right, near the 2nd row seat back?);

I suppose the KVM is the logic control module for the entire system?

I DO NOT NEED THE ENTIRE SYSTEM OF KEYLESS ENTRY AND ALARM ON MY FARM LR4. IS THERE ANY WAY TO BYPASS THE ENTIRE CONCEPT?

 

I was able to get back to the barn and work on the LR4 a bit.

I pulled the three fuses suggested and they are fine. I pulled the trim off along the passenger (US) side of the vehicle and inspected the wires and found no corrosion, nor water, nor rodent damage. I hooked up the reader and have NO fault codes.

I then gave the key fob under the steering column one more try --- and it worked !!!! The vehicle started up no problem.

I had read enough on the internet to convince me that inside the fob is a small RFID transponder, just like they have in industry shipping containers and in the keys of modern, lower-priced vehicles which use a key instead of a button to start. Apparently, the transponder code in the fob is loaded into the ECU when the key is inserted (thereby solving the exact location problem I note below --- and they are a one-to-one match and the ECU allows the engine to start

So, in reality any vehicle with keyless entry has two information paths to the ECU -- an expensive one and and less expensive one. My conclusion at this point (after watching a video by the PowerfulUK guys ... is that my KVM Keyless entry module has died, most likely. And to replace it and get new key fobs and program the RF system costs much more money than a farm truck deserves.

So, I have been driving the vehicle for a week or so just using the "key held under the steering column method" -- and I am being successful -- in that I have not been stranded. But it s a bit of a pain because I am yet unable to figure how exactly and where exactly to hold the key fob so the required up close communication happens.

My task now is to learn that technique exactly so I am not sitting for 10 minutes each time I need to start the vehicle. And maybe rig up some location tool to place it in exactly the right location each time.

 

Hi Trio, did you find where to hold key fob. I am about to head to airport and try that although I already tried it once and it did not work. I was looking for 3 dashes , like Braille, according to video and I do not have them. I called dealer and they said it was only for 2015 and later. Mine is 2011 LR.
I had already started a thread yesterday before I saw yours here and I am hoping it is just the battery but I wanted to ask you because I will try that again.
Thanks!

 

Both of our 2010 models had the three raised ridges under the right side of the steering column. Use our fingers, find the ridges, hole the key fob against the ridges for a minute or so and push the start button. Sometimes it take a minute or two. Phil

 

Thanks Phil--will go look (feel) again!!

 

i have been searching every night to figure out this Key Not Recognized and have talked to mechanics and dealer to try to start the 2010 LR4 i just bought with no luck other than bring it in and we will check it out for lots of money. i have done all the fuses new batteries in fobs and car key under steering column etc
does holding the fob under the column eliminate having a bad antenna, antenna control and keyless module??? meaning i should look at the body control module and PCM???
thank you this is driving me nuts

 

First thing you should do is scan for codes, but I’m not sure a generic reader will see codes for the keyless vehicle module. Still - might be able to find someone to just give you a code readout for not too much money.

I’m posting a diagram of the keyless start control system (without stop/start - I assume your 2010 does not have start stop, but if you do, it’s a different diagram). Might give you some idea of where to look. If you search my posts, you should find reposted links to wiring diagrams and other resources.

 

thank you for the diagram i took the car to the dealer yesterday and had a diagnosis performed. it came back as "the keyless vehicle module fitted to this vehicle is incorrect check part number as it should be BJ32 or DPLA" and they said they could not do anymore until i replace the KVM for $1800. i asked if i could use a used module and have it flashed, and they told me no that it had to be a new one?????? i find the KVM being incorrect strange as from all the records and talking to past owner that this is the original KVM that came with the car (AH42-19H440-AE) the part manager said i need to order DPLA19H440AF
do i have to buy a NEW KVM and why is it a different part number
thank you