SKID PLATES (Fuel, Diffs, Oil pan, transmission)
What are the reviews/thoughts about the following:
This fuel tank guard:
Rock Armor - Aluminum Fuel Tank Guard
Or this one:
Discovery II Aluminum Fuel Tank Skid Plate | Columbia Overland
These differential guards: (I rather stay away from weld ons)
Front:
Qt Disco II Front Diff Guard - A1055
Rear:
Qt Disco II Rear Diff Guard- A1070
What do you use for protection for the oil pan, transmission, and transfer case?
NOTE: I'm running MED duty old man emu springs for a 2 inch lift. Med duty shocks terra firm for a 2 inch lift.
This fuel tank guard:
Rock Armor - Aluminum Fuel Tank Guard
Or this one:
Discovery II Aluminum Fuel Tank Skid Plate | Columbia Overland
These differential guards: (I rather stay away from weld ons)
Front:
Qt Disco II Front Diff Guard - A1055
Rear:
Qt Disco II Rear Diff Guard- A1070
What do you use for protection for the oil pan, transmission, and transfer case?
NOTE: I'm running MED duty old man emu springs for a 2 inch lift. Med duty shocks terra firm for a 2 inch lift.
I have the Columbia Overland fuel skid on my D1. My buddy got the Rock Armor one for his D2. I can't tell any difference in quality and the RA seems to be just as thick.
The front QT needs two tabs welded on. Once those are welded on the gaurd is bolt on/off. QT gaurds are good and I like mine.
Oil pan protection? Not needed.
Transmission? Not needed.
Transfer Case? Not needed, really. Though check out Rock Ware for a belly skid.
Though I'd upgrade my steering rods before getting a belly pan.
The front QT needs two tabs welded on. Once those are welded on the gaurd is bolt on/off. QT gaurds are good and I like mine.
Oil pan protection? Not needed.
Transmission? Not needed.
Transfer Case? Not needed, really. Though check out Rock Ware for a belly skid.
Though I'd upgrade my steering rods before getting a belly pan.
And make sure you have a solid front and rear recovery point.
I have the Columbia Overland fuel skid on my D1. My buddy got the Rock Armor one for his D2. I can't tell any difference in quality and the RA seems to be just as thick.
The front QT needs two tabs welded on. Once those are welded on the gaurd is bolt on/off. QT gaurds are good and I like mine.
Oil pan protection? Not needed.
Transmission? Not needed.
Transfer Case? Not needed, really. Though check out Rock Ware for a belly skid.
Though I'd upgrade my steering rods before getting a belly pan.
The front QT needs two tabs welded on. Once those are welded on the gaurd is bolt on/off. QT gaurds are good and I like mine.
Oil pan protection? Not needed.
Transmission? Not needed.
Transfer Case? Not needed, really. Though check out Rock Ware for a belly skid.
Though I'd upgrade my steering rods before getting a belly pan.
That is the plan Mike.
The tabs are about 1"x1.5" and tapped for a bolt to thread into. You bolt the bottom of the diff gaurd onto the diff. Then you weld the tabs into place. Any exhaust shop should be able to do it for a few bucks. do it for a few bucks.
my terrefirma belly skid has come in handy. the last trip i bashed it really good and just slid off the rock. dont think they are for sale yet in the US but when they are after you have sliders, hd steering and a fuel tank skid its something to consider.
Why are you worrying about what the tabs look like? QT's are one of the best guards on the market and if the deciding factor is tabs or no tabs and if they have to be welded on, a 2 minute job, then you don't want good guards.

There was one time I could have used a belly skid. I got hung on my e-brake drum due to poor spotting.Had to Hilift up and put a rock under my frame slider. Which brings me to my next point.
I have a set of SS frame sliders that have been used pretty frequently. They provide a skid for your frame and also protect your trailing arm chassis mounts. Mine aren't Rock Ware but they do sell some too.
Last edited by fishEH; Jul 25, 2012 at 02:36 PM.


