What did you do to your p-38 today
 

Well I got tired of the squeak I was getting when backing up and have had the truck going on three years so I guess it’s time for brake pads. I could have gone with Akebonos but after losing two $100 sets to bad guides, I decided to go with cheap ceramic pads of eBay $50 for all 4 wheels. They fit like a charm, looks like it was just in time too, as two of the guides were already sticking, rebuilt the guides and calipers new pads the factory rotor were in spec. @100k I think its the first time they were cut. feel great hope they last as long as the last set did.

Then it was on to replacing the harness for the fuel pump, hopefully you won’t have this problem, but I see more harness’s for sale today than ever. Of course this requires dropping the tank, basically it like replacing the fuel pump. Hopefully it will not happen right after you put 24 gallon of gas in the tank (sux dropping a tank that heavy). Now with that replaced hopefully my gas gauge will continue to work and the fuel pump won’t just shut off on its own.

So as long as I was pushing my luck; I figured WTH why not replace the under hood fuse box while I’m already exhausted and filthy. If you have a p-38 and don’t know it yet they eat up fuse boxes, basic POS lucus design. They mount the under hood fuse box next to the recovery tank, so any spill or over heat and the coolant goes into the box.

There are 8-9 plugs on the bottom side and three wires leading to the ecu’s, this was my fear that after replacing the fuse box the bcem would not sync or something like that. But no such problem replaced the box the truck started, I entered the radio code and set the roof and windows and good as new.

When replacing the fuse box I installed an ABS relay in place if the standard fan relay R-7, Im told it will keep the amperage where it need to be in order not to burn the new fuse box. I also noticed that the textbook emblem on the heater control is gone, that has been on there for 3-years.

I also had to replace a blown low bulb while i was at it.

Grease oil and filter and hopefully this one will be set for the winter, three more to go.

I finally got a P38. Thought I'd contribute.

Ordered pollen filters, brake accumulator, o-ring set for EAS minor leak fix a few days ago. These items should be in this week and I'll get around to fixing stuff up.
Drove her about 20 miles around town she did great.

what year p-38?
pollen filter are important on these as they tend to burn up the blowers if restricted

She's a 2001. Java Black. Black interior with black piping. Has a new gray suede headliner. Sound system hookups. EAS still fully functional and 3 years "new" lol No leaks of any kind except a MINOR oil leak. Everything electronic works and the climate display has not burnt out yet lol. I love this thing. She has a small EAS leak too but I just bought an o-ring set so I'll be replacing those and trimming back the air lines a bit.

So far it just needs new propshaft ujoints and a blend servo motors to get the heater going. I'm in Texas though so no rush.

Might need a new cat too.

edit: I just put on some new YELLOW foglights. She came with Blue HID headlamps and I personally LOVE the Blue and Yellow combo. I've got it on my Lexus lol Thought I'd make them match.

the black on black sound just right, i ended up with Epson green with a dark saddle interior, would have liked black interior.

I just found a problem with my bags this weekend, below zero and it took like 15 minutes to get it to raise.
I have spares, I just need spring to come to replace.

speaking of part lots of eas parts to be found on the range rover sights.

i got a set on practially new arnott bags GEN 2-3, from one guy, and Compressor and valve block from another because they both were converting to coils.

Today, as so few of us do, I drove her with zero hiccups other than being on bumpstops on the morning lol

i know the feeling, now i go warn the car up just so it at height when i come out.
I actually broke a sway bar link the other day, luckly a had a spare.
cant wait for spring to come new bags, new compressor ready for another 120k.

Are we the only ones with P38's on here? LOL

How much did you throw down for the "new" EAS setup?

I think there are a few others, P-38 have gotten such a bad rap the most people don't admit to ever owning one.

I find it comical that the EAS in the P-38 was so bad that every suppliers answer was to rip it out and replace it with coils springs.

Yet even as bad as it was they still use it in the RR, lr3 & lr4's, and NOW it great, best system ever.
of course that is just until the supplies find a way to fit spring and them this EAS system will be trash too.
you can make money just selling scanners that will raise and lower you truck, no money there. :)

I find even in my professional life that people never want to raise themselves the the height of the new knowledge,
they would rather "dumb down the systems" to their level, by adding switch or bypasses to the systems.

As i said my system is in a 99 completely original, bags , compressor and sensors.
I noticed that there were a lot of practically new p-38 suspension parts for sale on the range rover sites.

People that guessed they need bags only to find out it was a compressor, or the other way around, So I bought up replacement bags from someone there.

The same for my spare compressor/valve block someone guessed and bought the wrong part. I picked up a compressor/ valve block rebuild kit for $65 and replaced all the o-rings.

between the new bags and rebuilt compressor and valve block; i have about $400 invested.

now all i need is the time and weather cant wait to see it 2 inches higher in offroad mode.

P-38 EAS suspension fault

everybody has heard how a P-38 will leave you stranded on the trail or the road on your bump stops.
well it happened on my way to work yesterday, bells whistles lights ,the whole ball of wax.

strangely, the EAS system is quite easily by past with a couple jumper wires.

so here goes:
pull the 35 pin plug from the ECU under the drivers seat, now for a quick run down.

LF bag is pin #10, RF bag is pin #27, LR bag is pin #11 leaving the RR as pin #28. those are your bags.

Next you will need to know the inflate pin #26 and deflate pin #9, and power is on pin #1 (timed).

to inflate a bag, jump the compressor at the relay and put power from pin #1 to the bag you want to inflate and to pin #26, and the bag will inflate remove pin #26 to stop inflation.
Do the same with the other bags until you get the truck up to a usable height.

LEAVE THE EAS ECU UNPLUGGED, start your truck and get home.

now you can check your truck out and see what the problem was that sent you into fault to begin with.

yes you can buy boxes from $150 + that will do the same thing, cost me a set of low voltage jumpers from HF like $3 and a couple common pins from my desk draw.

I hope this will help someone in the future

a follow up:
so after you get your bags filled and truck raised
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...26094a9ba0.jpg


raise to the max. 18 year old oem bags

now time to find the leak, simple is best a spray bottle with soap and water.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...6f011b390d.jpg


so course the leak is at the Solenoids

So i ordered a rebuild kit for the compressor and solenoids, but they take a week. so for a temp. repair to keep the truck rolling.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...b13dfb17fb.jpg


high heat clear great for sealing vacuum leak or this case leaking Solenoids


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...1f1729847f.jpg


empty the system of all air and layed on a couple heavy coats around the base of the Solenoids

I update after rebuilding the block. a couple more pic of that crappy EAS setup that everyone want to rip out.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...fdeebe006e.jpg


looks like plenty of clearance of old OEM bags


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...6697ea05ab.jpg


should look crazy with GEN III bags on it


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...a46d146a07.jpg


as the GEM III bags add 2 inches to the front and three to the rear

Deleted the HID kit the previous owner installed. Put in stock sylvania silverstar bulbs.
Installed new expansion tank, bled system. Drove it.

Just got back from a 220 mile trip from California to Colorado to Utah and back. Started out with a small oil leak that turned into a BIG oil leak covering the bottom of the truck. Went through 3 gallons (yes, gallons) of oil during the trip. Trying to figure out where it is leaking now....see valve cover gaskets leaking, want to change orings in oil relief valves and front main seal.

P38s definitely get a bad rap, but I have had mine for 9 years and she has never left me stranded. I swapped out my EAS after a few years as I can't afford an EAS fault on the trails. Mine started out stock and is now fully built for overlanding and exploring. It has been all through the Sierra Nevadas, Death Valley 6 times, Moab twice, Baja twice and countless other excursions. She just ticked over 150k miles on my last trip.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...873abc33f0.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...0c1eb80346.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...209e718f51.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...a871421dba.jpg

I just got back from a 2200 trip from California to Colorado thru Utah and back. Had a small oil leak when I started a big one when I was done. Went through 4 gallons (yes, gallons) of oil on the trip. Still trying to determine where it is pouring out. Power washed the engine twice to clean it up. I do see a valve cover gasket leaking which is only 2 years old after I changed my head gaskets. Going to replace the o-rings in the oil bypass valves and probably my front main seal. In 9 years of ownership and she just ticked 150k miles, she has never left a spot on the driveway. I think she is getting back at me now as there is literally a puddle...

She started off as a stock P38 with 89k miles. Beautiful interior and a few small coolant leaks. Over the years, I have replaced all the common P38 ****les seen on rangrovers.net and then some. But she has never left me stranded and have driven her through the Sierra Nevadas, Moab twice, Death Valley x 6, and Baja twice. Many of the 60k miles have been offroad as she only turned into my daily driver the past two year with a 4 mile commute.

A few upgrades off the top of my head: Factory winch tray, Warn 9000CE winch, bull bar, custom all aluminum radiator by Griffin radiators, custom sliders, Safety Devices roof rack, rear ladder, rear Rock Rover metal bumper with custom swingout, RTE springs, longer Doestch tech shocks, custom adjustable panhard rod, single muffler under truck

Overlanding upgrades: OverlandPros Anza 2000 4 person tent, OverlandPros Wraptor 2500 270 degree awning, ARB 50qt fridge with slider, BlueSea rear fusebox, GoalZero Yeti 400 power pack, Powerfilm 60W solar panel, Flexopwer 79W solar panel, Ham radio, Samsung Tab A 8.9 inch tablet with InReach satellite communicator for GPS and texting, rear storage area built in, USB ports

Maintenance/Issues: replaced fusebox, radiator, hoses, thermostat, fan clutch, HEVAC screen, EAS block and EAS pump rebuilt before springs conversion, heater core and o-rings, throttle body coolant gasket x 3, steering rods, tie-rods, head gaskets, front shock mounts

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...da5f8bcc42.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...6a75b443c2.jpg

Going on a year ownership with my P38. Have fixed a ton of stuff so far and soldiering on. Recently I've been experiencing this exact issue above, just DUMPING oil. Need to power wash everything and see where it's coming from.

More dogs
 

Fixed one and Bought 3 more.:D

Well, since I now own a P38 as of yesterday, I guess I should join in. It's a running, all-electrics-working (except AC display and door latch warning), clean, straight, 1998 HSE 4.6 with 193k on the clock. Only a few more recent records on it, but fresh oil change, new plugs and an entire new cooling system in the last few months, plus already been converted to coil springs. I know, I know, taking a risk by picking up something that I don't know a ton of history on (especially why a whole new radiator, water pump, hoses and thermostat were put in), but I paid $450 cash for it after a short inspection and drove it home with no issues last night. I figured for $450 for a full runner, it was too hard to turn that one down. For today, I'm putting in new pads and rotors (which it came with) and bleeding the brakes, and then changing the differential and transfer case oil. And then the real fun begins. Bought it as a camping/hunting/offroad toy (my LR2 and Dyna Glide are my DDs), so look for more updates as it gets outfitted.

Hello P38 owners,
Well the below 32 degree weather has hit NJ. My EAS is acting up. Its lowering itself over night and when I walk to it in the am the front of the vehicle is down while while the rear is still up at cruising height. To be fair I also have noticed while driving that the compressor comes on and off while driving. Sounds like a leak somewhere right?
Where should I start checking because it has behaved since the a new air compressor was replaced 4 years ago and all the bags were changed at 55,000 miles due to dry rot.

Any comments are always appreciated. Other than this problem this vehicle is a pleasure drive, park , and take on vacations etc.

Replacing rear brake pads today. Have to get in there and push the brake caliper pistons back into their homes, which requires about a 4-5" C-clamp. I only had a 3" c-clamp on me, so it made for a longer, creative repair. After rubbing the edge of the pads on the cement to create a nice chamfer on the pad, I drove around squeak-free.

-AB

Found the spare tire holder filled with water! Assuming this must be a failed rear aperture seal... The headlining seems dry so probably not sunroof related. It as parked nose up on a hill and of course it rained heavily recently.

Anyone else had this happen? I see the seal on AB for $179, Still have to do the over the pond research to see if there is a better deal to be had.

98 P38 Anniversary edition.

Update... not quite as easy as finding something on a DII but found a TSB on this and applied the 5mm bend the flange fix. will try the baby powder next to see if any further leakage.

After hearing some truly disturbing pinging and grinding sounds from under my wife's 2000 P38, I drove carefully to the nearest parts store for some emergency driveshaft greasing supplies. Unfortunately we were two hours from home and had to cross our fingers that nothing would break loose before we got there. When we got back, I dropped the front driveshaft and replaced both u joints with Moog 344's (anyone know if these are any good?). One of the old needle bearings was entirely shot, leaving a lot of play in the transfer case side u joint.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...1b6a13fd61.jpg

Old needle bearing in good shape

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...9c5a946a25.jpg

Destroyed needle bearing

I would wager those fuses are not factory

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...b1bb5a1b88.png
+1..... 100% NOT Factory. Just looks something like a Pico weatherproof fuse holder.

Nice work fingers crossed for you on the rears

I started it and it actually ran.:laugh:

I would love to get my windows to go and down and mirrors to work. Apparently no power to the switches. Also need to see why the blender motor is not working. My daughter steam cleaned the motor and now no heat.


Replacing seatbelts and some trim. She has been sitting for over a year now but she started right up when I put new fuel into her.

Used it to haul the new boat down to the coast. Tows great but gets a shimmy between 0-30 MPH sometimes? Turning or speeding up eliminates the shake but if I'm going straight and accelerating slowly it shakes the boat a lot more than I would like.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...1ee69f965.jpeg

In rapid succession I've developed an intermittent shimmy followed by a chirp, After a little web surfing I'm thinking U-joint also. I would assume at the point of a shimmy and a chirp one does not just grease it and move along... ??? At least the P38 has a serviceable u-joints...

It's possible but I would plan on u joint replacement

Upon further inspection, yes broken U Joint on T-case side of front drive shaft. Squirted the bolts with penetrating oil today, Will see how friendly they are tomorrow.

The bolts came out! Didn't break or round a single one!! Took about an hour total to get the shaft out... Then another hour trying to use a cheap circlip tool, then the got the U-Joints out using the hammer and socket method. New ones went in pretty easy... Reinstalled the shaft today and more than one noise has disappeared and of course it is much smoother now. Big difference, as a matter of fact I probably caught this right before it would have been a wallet buster... Being my first drive shaft self service this guys videos were helpful
While I was underneath I greased the rear prop shaft U-Joint, only the one on the T-case side was serviceable and took 6 squirts before it was full... the rear one no zerk.

Now (well another day actually) on to the rest of the list... bad wheel sensor front right due to leaking axel seal, funny brake noise front left...