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While out driving my 1965 Series 2A, my ignition suddenly just cut out. I checked my distributor wires between the cap and coil and reseated the cap and the Rover ran ok (sputtering, backfiring, stalling out requiring me to keep it revved up at stoplights, etc.) It finally stalled out again and I would not start again.
Since then, I have replaced the coil (a BERU ZS 172 for the electronic ignition which was already there), plugs (now proper NGK), plug leads, and distributor cap and rotor. Still...won't start but cranks over.
Checked and double checked all the wiring and the electronic ignition and its wiring.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
The red wire on the left of the coil and black on the right go into the distributor. The last black line (on the left) goes into the wire harness (supposedly to ign switch, per diagrams). The red leads to this brick are in series from the coil to inside the distributor cap to the electronic ign.
Do you have power at coil terminal when ignition switch is on?
Also, what do you mean when you say "reseated the cap"? Was it loose, not secured properly? Have you checked ths cap for cracks or rotor for defects? And you have no spark at any of the plugs?
Also, what do you mean when you say "reseated the cap"? Was it loose, not secured properly?
When I bought it, I found the housing for one of the wires into the distributor had been crushed between the cap and the distributor. Exposed the wire and shorted out the ignition. So I checked if that was somehow an issue again and there was a short (does not appear to be the case this time).
You mentioned "electronic ignition." Are you talking about a Pertronix or other retrofit magnetic induction unit that replaced the original points? If so, most electronic ignition units require a full 12 volts supply. That thing you circled in blue above is a ballast resistor that is cutting coil voltage down from 12 volts to a typical 8-9 volts. Confirm what you mean when you say "electronic ignition" so we have the correct info to address the issue.
Also, remove 1 plug wire from spark plug and stick a screwdriver in the boot so it contacts the metal connector. Then hold screwdriver shaft about 1/4" away from the engine block... anywhere convenient is fine. Have someone crank the starter for 3-4 seconds. You should see a blue spark jump from screwdrived shaft to engine block. If not, you're not getting spark. Note: that blue spark is about 40,000 volts... so make sure your hand is on the insulated handle of the screwdriver. That spark won't kill you (unless you have some heart-related pre-existing condition or pacemaker), but it'll definitely 'wake you up' if you're not being careful.
It is an electronic ignition retrofitted to the distributor. I don't know which brand. The retrofit parts are red plastic (rotor cap and the ecu [?] where the points were). No points anymore. So I should bypass the resistor completely?
Curious that it was running this whole time with it inline with the distributor.
It is an electronic ignition retrofitted to the distributor. I don't know which brand. The retrofit parts are red plastic (rotor cap and the ecu [?] where the points were). No points anymore. So I should bypass the resistor completely?
Curious that it was running this whole time with it inline with the distributor.
You will need to figure out what you're working with to know for sure, but, for example... Pertronix electronic ignition modules require a full 12v to function properly. Call Pertronix if you'd like confirmation of this. Their Tech Support team is easy to reach. While reduced voltage behind the ballast resistor may work (or appear to work), 12v is required per Pertronix to function as designed. This is true of every electronic ignition system I am aware of... but I don't know everything. Maybe you have some obscure product from another planet that's OK with 8-9 volts... so determining what you actually have might be worthwhile.
Also, it's not so much an "ECU" in the common usage of that term to mean a "computer controlled" system... but rather a very simple hall effect sensor that identifies through a magnetic pulse when to fire the coil. It's generally more reliable than points, but not much more sophisticated.
Recommended steps--
Find out exactly what you're working with.
Confirm you're getting a bright blue spark (I suggested a method in my previous post).
If no, confirm full 12v to coil.
Oh, and I just re-read your OP... 1965 model truck. Is it still positive earth??
Also it seems to mention the ballast resistor should be in series with the solenoid/starter. This ballast is in line with the positive line from the ignition module inside the distributor cap.
And I just now found the Powerspark kit listing for this distributor on their site. Says direct plugin to the coil. So I'll make a jumper lead and cut out the resistor tomorrow and see what happens.
05-02-2024, 08:16 PM
Ignition Troubleshooting
